Pop out the reflector and tell us what you find. How are the LEDs mounted? Are they on an aluminum shelf, or a plate that at least touches the insides of the head? Or are they on a cheesy little piece of aluminum that doesn’t conduct the heat anywhere?
I would like to acommodate your request but alas I could not. I ruined the switch when trying to take the switch assembly out :-(
Then I bent the metal rim that the switch pcb sits on by using a screwdriver to attempt to press out the driver. I also cut the insulation on one of the wires for the switch. And heard an uncanny crunchy sound when i pressed hard with the screwdriver. So it is no worky for me now :-(
From what I can peek through the switch hole it is a common led mcpcb that rests on a thin ledge inside secured by at least 2 screws.
Good news: I cannot could not detect pwm when it still worked. The reflector seems flawless. The light is not glued anywhere.
Bad news: The led insulator gaskets have high rims that catch some of the light. I did not get to measure throw or lumen output before i ruined it. But a guesstimate (eye only) would put output at about 2300 - 2500 lumens and throw in the ~30 kCd range.
I hate that I did not get it apart! And that it broke in the first place!
That sucks breaking your new light so soon after getting it Ledsmoke
Will you be able to fix it?
Are they difficult to get apart? I have one on order and was thinking of tweaking it myself.
Well, Ledsmoke, things are looking up. As it is now already broken you have no downside to taking it fully apart and trying to repair it!
That's usually my philosophy...
I was afraid that this method would cause the traces on the circuit board to delaminate, but after I exhausted other possibilities, I tried it and it worked for me
The King has arrived today! At first glance the quality seems good and (running at 2 18650’s) it’s more powerful compared to my standard Convoy C8.
Now waiting for 4 new 18650’s for direct comparison with the C8 and modded UF-t20.
My king has arrived today too. Driver is crappy of course with one mosfet. Reflector is a little scratchet, leds are XM-L2.
Not measured current yet but stock is a little brighter than my king with 3x XM-L @2,8A each.
Leds have heatsinking. Pill is 3mm thick and screw in to flashlight body.
Machining is good for that price, anodisation not bad too.
I bought that flashlight becouse of leds and reflector for mod old diving flashlight.
Here are pics of the tear down.
The bezel is Aluminum, not Stainless and the button on the on-off switch is a little smaller than others I have seen.
6 XM-L2s all lined up in a row. So neat!
With the tail cap off. First time I have seen one with all 4 screws installed.
Unknown, to me, driver.
I tore the trace trying to get it out. This method works great if the driver isn’t glued in place.
So I had to go at it from the other direction. After unscrewing the bezel, I used a sock (for the feet) over my hand to unsrew the reflector. I was very happy to see this, as other cheap SRK clones did not include this. This provides a good thermal path to the body of the light.
Once I was able to get behind the reflector, I was able to pound out the driver from the back side. It took quite a lot of force to break it loose. The leads to the star are 24 gauge.
Pic of the driver, I will have to study up on this one, I don’t know if it is worth trying to improve.
The MOSFET is an HJ35N03, Chinese. I couldn’t find any parameters other than it is rated at 25V. I’m pretty sure I could just swap in one of the 70N02s.
All in all I am thrilled with the build quality of this light considering it was only $23.10 from DX-US. I could have done a lot worse. Good job DX.
I can’t believe I just said that. 
Mine is the same 
Thanks for the teardown dchomak!
I think I recall reading that that driver is junk (I may be wrong), but the rest is worth well over $24.
Yeah. The driver is junk. Start planning.
Luckily the driver is the easiest part to fix these days, thanks to the great members here!
I just got finished with some mods on this light and driver.
First of all, I am no driver expert, but as far as potential output from this driver, I think it can be VERY good. Here is a pic of the 70N02 MOSFET that I just swapped in. The 70N02 has super low resistance when passing a lot of Amps. Look at the circuit board. The entire perimeter of this driver is a sea of copper clad circuit trace that all leads to the Source pin of the FET. The Drain of the FET is just a few mm from L-. The positive ring on the cell side of the driver is connected directly to L+ through the vias that can be seen just under L+. These are all direct connections already, unlike the highly regarded JB driver that has current limiting resistors that have to be shunted in order to get what this drive already has STOCK. As long as that FET is drivin to full ON when on high, nothing could be better. If I am missing something here, someone please point it out. Sure, maybe with the original 35N03 FET it sucked, but now it rocks.
Before
After
All of the XM-L2s are mounted directly onto 1 star that has its own traces connecting them in parallel. Nothing I could do there. What I did do was replace the 24 gauge lead wires with some 16 gauge wire I picked up at Cables and Connectors. they only had 25 feet on the spool, so I bought all they had. I think it might be silver plated copper, but I can’t be sure. They didn’t know what they had as they got the spool as part of a liquidation buy.
It’s definitely copper underneath, what I don’t know is if it is silver on the outside. They said it was test lead wire. It’s nice stuff, just not silcone or teflon.
I have yet to do the spring mod, but as of now, my subjective guess is that it is twice as bright as it was. Before these 2 mods is was about as bright as a modded 3 XM-L SRK with tail spring mod, lead mod and FET swap to 70N02. That also was a cheap, non JB driver.
Yes, that is where to get them, comfychair first gave that link awhile back.
Unfortunately that seller doesn't ship outside US. :(
Does anyone know any shop shipping those MOSFETs to Europe? Or could anyone in US please help me to buy some and send to Finland?
Have you checked: http://www.digikey.fi/
Thanks, but it's out of stock there. [If I read the table correctly]
dchomak, were you able to measure a noticeable increase in current or brightness after the mod?
Would be absolutely nice to drive this beast to its full potential.
The mode spacing seems fine after the mod? How is the PWM?
Sorry for all the questions, just excited to get mine haha.