Oshpark Projects

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Send me those and I’ll take some pics for you.

[comfychair]

@WarHawk-AVG

Are we supposed to jumper across R3? […] I think I got the wrong diodes, the leads go out away from the body instead of curve underneath so it made it a bit difficult to get them to go where they should go

Yes, R3 is an optional limiting resistor (it's inline between LED- and the FET's drain).

That's the correct leg config on the diode, SOD-323.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ZLLS410TA/ZLLS410CT-ND/1767188

[antoninodattola]

Hello guys, I wanted to try the Tiny12,

What size are the smd components?

0805? 1206?

thank you!

[djozz]

@antoninodattola

Hello guys, I wanted to try the Tiny12,

What size are the smd components?

0805? 1206?

thank you!

The tiny12 is exact the Tiny10, but with a wider outer ring. The components are the components from a NANJG105C driver, the cheapest way to get them is just scavenge a 105C. I have used the Tiny12 like that and it works fine.

[antoninodattola]

I'm doing a fairly substantial order from Mouser, with 2 other users cpf_it and I thought to take a bit of stuff ..;)

I'll do that for you tiny12!

thanks

[WarHawk-AVG]

Components were set for 0805

All you need to populate the ATtiny and controlling hardware

This list

http://www.digikey.com/short/hqzd0 from Digikey compiled by Comfychair

You need the ATtiny, a 19.1K resistor, a 4.7K resistor, the diode, and the 10UF capacitor

Looking at the list…that is EXACTLY what you need…1 for every board…then a way to flash the firmware to the ATtiny (which is easier and cheaper than one might think) go to OP for complete list…the Tiny10 or 12 uses the 7135 chips though

For a complete setup of 10
Subtotal $18.16

edit to correct resistor value

[Jalben]

@WarHawk-AVG

Components were set for 0805

All you need to populate the ATtiny and controlling hardware

This list

http://www.digikey.com/short/hqzd0 from Digikey compiled by Comfychair

You need the ATtiny, a 19.1K resistor, a 47.1K resistor, the diode, and the 10UF capacitor

Looking at the list…that is EXACTLY what you need…1 for every board…then a way to flash the firmware to the ATtiny (which is easier and cheaper than one might think) go to OP for complete list…the Tiny10 or 12 uses the 7135 chips though

For a complete setup of 10
Subtotal $18.16

Awesome! I was just wondering about how much it would cost to source the components vs stripping drivers. I can get drivers cheaper it seems. Also there’s no link to this digicart in the OP. There are similar ones for the larger FET drivers but none for the AMC drivers.

[Helios1 (Helios-)]

@WarHawk-AVG

You need the ATtiny, a 19.1K resistor, a 47.1K resistor, the diode, and the 10UF capacitor

Its 4.7 kΩ

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Thanks Helios, I was all over that! 4.7 is quite different than 47.1! Works versus doesn’t work.

I find that the price of new components is well worth the effort as compared to stripping an existing driver. I’m not so good at taking those tiny resistors off a board without damaging them. To have a “tape” with 100 standing by, so much easier!

[comfychair]

The price breaks start to lean towards buying individual components after you get up around 10 pieces. Fewer than that it's cheaper to use a donor driver for the parts.

[Cereal_killer]

Hey guys just checkin in, I have sets of BLF15DD’s and BFL17DD’s on the way. I got the 15’s to hopefully revive an old broken original 47’s quark (literally the original version). The 17mm is going in my HD2010.

Thanks to everyone that’s worked on these. I may be able to solder the SMD’s but I could never design them.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Stripping the drivers for components still takes time, perhaps it is free as you don’t charge yourself, don’t know. My Dad would figure in the cost of soldering iron tips, wear and tear on the soldering iron itself (they don’t last forever do they?) and the waste of a bare 105c board not being used. Every fraction of a penny counts. Me? I don’t like doing all that math so I just buy new ones and be done with it, keeps me from burning meself.

[Rufusbduck]

I added the shopping cart to the other driver links.

[RMM]

When I saw this board over at Oshpark I knew I had to try one. I haven't decided what to put it in yet and probably won't have time to do it for at least a few more weeks but there it sits...beckoning me. So much power in such a tiny little package.

I don't think I'll be going direct drive with this one...or maybe direct drive with a 15 second turbo timer and electronic switch??? Three of these mounted in an M6? Ultra-ultra mule? It pulled 14A from a single purple Efest 18350; I'm scared to see what it would do on a single 20R or VTC4.

Nah, I'll probably end up throwing it in an EDC tube type light and limiting it to around 6A and be reasonable for once.

[MRsDNF]

If you haven't seen this thread you may find it interesting.

My Latest Insane Project

People always said a P60 couldn’t handle 3 XM-Ls. It turns out it can. I was (and still am) pretty happy with my triple drop in, but I feel like there is still wasted space. I recently heard that Nightcrawl is making a quad XM-L P60, which is the limit of how many LEDs can fit on a board and still have optics. Naturally I still want to have the most XM-Ls in a P60, so I was rather annoyed with Nightcrawl. He would have the one with the most XM-Ls, then I realized. Who needs optics. :evil: [i…

Have fun and keep a fire extinguisher handy.

[WarHawk-AVG]

@RMM

When I saw this board over at Oshpark I knew I had to try one. I haven’t decided what to put it in yet and probably won’t have time to do it for at least a few more weeks but there it sits…beckoning me. So much power in such a tiny little package.

I don’t think I’ll be going direct drive with this one…or maybe direct drive with a 15 second turbo timer and electronic switch??? Three of these mounted in an M6? Ultra-ultra mule? It pulled 14A from a single purple Efest 18350; I’m scared to see what it would do on a single 20R or VTC4.

Nah, I’ll probably end up throwing it in an EDC tube type light and limiting it to around 6A and be reasonable for once.

Heat issue? Did you fill the vias with solder when you flowed the emitters

And HOLY MOLY Batman…that’s alot of XM-L’s!

[RMM]

Yes, the vias are completely filled with solder. Yes, I realize that this is potentially very dangerous. On most boards when the LEDs get too hot they tend to float off the board, shutting things off. Here they may float but there's nowhere to go and they may end up creating a short circuit instead. A short circuit with a high drain cell is not something you want to see!

[djozz]

I ordered scaru's scaryboard as well :evil: , a good way of getting rid of all the 1st gen. XML's leftover from swaps :-)

[Helios1 (Helios-)]

What are you guys going to do with them?

All that heat in 20mm. On fr4. :~
I have the desire to place a large via or two under each xml thermal pad so that a short piece of solid core copper wire could be placed through there.

[djozz]

@Helios-

What are you guys going to do with those things. All that heat in 20mm. On fr4. :~ I have the desire to place a large via or two under each xml thermal pad so that a short piece of solid core copper wire could be placed through there.

In my build it will be less than 1A / led, it will be an efficient light :-) .