Unfortunately that seller doesn't ship outside US. :(
Does anyone know any shop shipping those MOSFETs to Europe? Or could anyone in US please help me to buy some and send to Finland?
Unfortunately that seller doesn't ship outside US. :(
Does anyone know any shop shipping those MOSFETs to Europe? Or could anyone in US please help me to buy some and send to Finland?
Have you checked: http://www.digikey.fi/
Thanks, but it's out of stock there. [If I read the table correctly]
dchomak, were you able to measure a noticeable increase in current or brightness after the mod?
Would be absolutely nice to drive this beast to its full potential.
The mode spacing seems fine after the mod? How is the PWM?
Sorry for all the questions, just excited to get mine haha.
Unfortunately that seller doesn't ship outside US. :(
Does anyone know any shop shipping those MOSFETs to Europe? Or could anyone in US please help me to buy some and send to Finland?
Got them ordered via a friendly US-based forum member. Thank you very much for your help! :)
http://www.ebay.de/itm/NIKOS-P70N02LDG-TO-252-/221240683541?pt=Bauteile&hash=item3382f8ec15
or can also an US-Member sells me one or two and send it to germany?
Our illustirous RMM has them for sale on his web site and it currently shows 26 in stock:
Here.
His shipping terms are here for outside the USA:
Here.
:bigsmile:
Thank you for this information!
just write him a PM about the shipping costs ( if i remember 15 USD for a Flashlight - a few bucks for small parts)
he is nice and answers fast!
I would like to acommodate your request but alas I could not. I ruined the switch when trying to take the switch assembly out
Then I bent the metal rim that the switch pcb sits on by using a screwdriver to attempt to press out the driver. I also cut the insulation on one of the wires for the switch. And heard an uncanny crunchy sound when i pressed hard with the screwdriver. So it is no worky for me now
From what I can peek through the switch hole it is a common led mcpcb that rests on a thin ledge inside secured by at least 2 screws.
Good news: I cannot could not detect pwm when it still worked. The reflector seems flawless. The light is not glued anywhere.
Bad news: The led insulator gaskets have high rims that catch some of the light. I did not get to measure throw or lumen output before i ruined it. But a guesstimate (eye only) would put output at about 2300 - 2500 lumens and throw in the ~30 kCd range.
I hate that I did not get it apart! And that it broke in the first place!
Ah dang!
This might help you rebuild your switch
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/mrk56N4w
Just need a pushbutton, solder on, then solder on the wires, well after you fix the metal rim
Slowly but surely you can get your SRK back together…just be gentle with it
Good luck good sir!
It no biggie that the light is dead. I was not planning on keeping it original anyway. I just hate it when thing break when they are not MEANT to break LOL
But thank you for your concern :-)
Ugh… now I kind of regret it I didn’t buy one at the original price :Sp
My first batch of 3 shold be at my house when I hey home from work! I grabbed a total of 9 from the US direct dx at $23… glad I pulled the trigger
Got home from trying to catch a surf perch and mine was waiting in the mailbox. This is my first SRK so I’ve nothing to compare it to, but I’m very impressed with the build quality. For that price I was expecting junk. The cool white tint was not as bad as I feared and best of all… NO BLINKY!!! I don’t know why, defective driver? Ha, that is one defect I wish happened more often. My only complaint is PWM noise on low. I hate driver screech…
Now I’ll enjoy the honeymoon phase while watching you experts lead the way in mods. dchomak’s thread looks very interesting!
…and best of all… NO BLINKY!!! I don’t know why, defective driver? Ha, that is one defect I wish happened more often.
Push & hold switch button when the light is on, et voila, your blinkies will appear! :bigsmile:
I wanted to take out all the variables, and see how many amps the star would take hooked directly to 4 cells in parallel. Here is a picture of the star with the 6-XM-L2s.
What I did is remove the star from the light and disconnected it from the driver. I had already upgraded the leads to the star to 16 gauge wire to handle the expected increase in current. I made a 4 cell pack by soldering a copper buss to the postive and negative terminals of the cells. The cells are the purple Samsung 2800 from the laptop pull posted by Siskiyou. I charged them up to 4.18V and connected everything together.
The cell pack
The circuit.
The meter on the left is reading the voltage of the pack. The yellow meter in the middle is measuring the temperature of the star. I placed the thermocouple right up next to one of the LEDs’. The meter to the right is going to measure the current to the star. Because this is a direct drive hookup, I knew that the LEDs would be subject to thermal runaway and wanted to monitor that. It is hard to see the star as in this pic it is edgewise, but you can see the orange clamp that is holding the thermocouple. Here is a picture of that connection. The little silver blob to the right of the LED and under the yellow tab is the thermocouple.
Now a very short video (19 seconds) of direct drive to the star. No driver.
Notice the current goes up and the temperature increases. I only let the star go to 50C as it is not sinked and was rising fast. Anyway about 10A. I believe the limiting factor is the copper traces on the star, probably some resistance there. Here is an angle shot of those traces.
OK, now onto the driver. First thing I did when I opened up this light was replace the original MOSFET with a 70N02. The 70N02 is a low resistance FET. Let’s see how this driver does with that replacement, comparing it to no driver at all, direct drive. In otherwords, will this driver hinder the maximum performance possible? The light is back together, here is a pic of that setup. Weakest link here is the alligator clip connections. The clips are NOS “Mueller” a vintage good quality clip and the banana jacks are also NOS of good quality. The leads are 16 gauge.
Now another very short video of the test.
Once again, about 10A
I think what this shows is that with the simple, and cheap, mods of changing the FET to the 70N02 and using heavier lead wires, this light can become all that it can be. Don’t forget the spring mod. This time when I put it back together I added some thermal grease to the threads of the threaded sink.
In conclusion, We got a GREAT deal on this light! There can be some improvements to the output of this light with a couple of cheap and easy mods. I believe the traces on the star to be the ultimate limiting factor. Personally, I would (did) some simple and cheap mods to improve the output. Total cost: $23.10 (DX US) plus about $1 for the 70N02 and the new lead wires. Of course the spring mods are free.
If someone could figure out how to add copper wires on top of the traces to the LEDs on the star, we could cut down on the resistance there…………
Nice testing. I’ve burned out the traces on three lights that had all the emitters mounted on a single MCPCB. I’m not sure why. Heat?
Good stuff dchomak, makes my wait a bit easyer, thanx! Can you please measure the Amps (original vs modded) in LOW mode?
Very nice testing dchomak!
I have no SRK, nor plans to buy one, but I like seeing mods happening, very good information/pictures/video's :-)
Could always try stripping the solder mask over the traces and run a bead of solder to thicken the traces, then kapton tape the snot out of the top of the star
Are they the typical hi>lo hidden strobe? How bad was the PWM on the lower modes?
Wow…very nice SRK, definitely needs good heatsinking, is the star bonded to the pill or just silicon grease?
I wish my SRK had a pill, all I have is a star that sits on the shelf that was machined out where the threads “should” be…
(once I get the driver up and running right, I might go ahead and do the fill of epoxy behind it to see if that helps…yeah makes it permanent…but this is my first “test” SRK, definitely won’t be my last)