Copper MCPCB Mods

  1. wire is used between the main panel and sub panels and also for electric ovens and dryers. Last year someone did this to a triple 20 mm using either #12 or #14 so I tried using it to link a 10mm aluminum mcpcb to a copper plate. I had the same difficulty centering the hole but if you file the edge of the wire before pounding it in you can repair the dam between the pads with fujik or JB.

I simply used the Mechanic Chips Repair Soldering Paste from FastTech to fill up the imperfections after the wire is fitted. I also filed the edge of the wire before inserting it to the hole because this would be very hard to do (without destroying the contact points) once it is already fitted in the MCPCB.

Regarding the triple 20 mm, were they copper or aluminum? Did the mod result to the desired results?

Aluminum and I think so. It was done about the time copper boards were coming around but still no copper triples so someone did the wire mod instead. Machinists like MRsDNF were milling out the center pad and dropping the star over a custom heat sink with a raised center pad.

Cool idea about doing this to aluminum stars for future projects. I bet this mod can be done pretty quick after you do a couple.

Nice tip about polishing with leather or jeans Chloe. Gotta keep that one in mind.

~.080" holes drilled, top & bottom of holes chamfered:

12AWG pieces are a light press fit. Clean off all the solder on the topside so it can be laid down flat, then hammer the pins from the backside only - that way the LED side won't need any filing or sanding afterwards.

Before riveting:

After:

The chamfer on both sides of the holes lets the copper spread out and fill in the space, which leaves a flange on either side that locks the pins in forever.

Being in international forum, I would like to highlight the difference in living standards.

Before anyone think about people being cheap or anything, it could be because some really couldn’t afford as much.

For example - the median wage for the US is about $50k while in Malaysia it’s $10k. That’s 1/5th purchasing power.

This is not exact, but quick calculation would bring it to this - would you have bought the copper Noctigons if they are 5 times the price e.g $8 apiece? No? Probably you’d still buy some to try out but not as much of course.

If there exist a way to use current aluminium or cheap dielectric copper board, we’d be glad to go that way, even if it means some mod is necessary.

I’ve go no problem with cheap. It’s a part of DIY.

Nice job CC.

+1

can you tell the difference in heat transfer?

In my case, not really as it’s in a solitaire which heats up quickly anyway. I’ll almost certainly continue to use this technique on occasion.

Cool! 8)

So this is the right way to do it. I’ll follow this technique. Thanks comfychair! :beer:

Well said Pulsar13! :beer:

Anyway, I don’t mind what others might think as long as I don’t offend anyone and I enjoy what I’m doing. I also think that many of us here think the same way too. :slight_smile:

Absolutely gorgeous job! Love the chamfer and riveting approach

Excellent job as always comfy!

All done with a drill press?

Reminds me of those copper core aluminum heatsinks for CPU’s

Those Intel HSFs work nice too.

Whoa! :open_mouth:

Wat is dat? :~

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300639533243

Cool! That’s one bright LED at 9000-9500 lumens specs. :open_mouth:

No worries here about being cheap! No matter if it is because of lack of funds or because of general attitude: I think it has something heroic doing so much work to save a buck :-)

I believe comfychair has already posted the best approach in modding aluminum MCPCBs but since I promised to show my modded aluminum MCPCB, here’s a sample of a 25 mm - of course doing it the comfychair way :bigsmile:

Front end:

And back:

I’ll be reflowing an XM-L2 T6 3B on this in a few minutes and install it on my Tmart TS-2010. :slight_smile:

Nice Nightbird95…any results on this yet?

After reflowing the XM-L2 T6 3B on this 25mm, I removed the spacer so the bottom of the reflector sits on the kapton tape I placed on the MCPCB to prevent shorting (I copied this from Texas Toasted’ thread). I think its the best focus I could get (it only gives me 44KCD at 1 meter - stock driver and domed emitter) but I cannot close the bezel fully because the 25 mm MCPCB sits over the pill.

I’m still finding other ways to ‘perfect’ my 2010 focus with the tools I have.