Ah OK. Well you're on the right track. You need to cut the connection between R1 and where the diode used to be, and bridge from VIN directly to R1. Your voltage divider maths is correct as far as I can see.
Wut? I'm using a BLF17DD w/ATTiny13A.
I thought you were referring to the Zilog MCU of other builds…sorry
Tom E: WarHawk-AVG:Just imagine if we use the ATtiny25 in lieu of the ATtiny13…2K of programming space…imagine what the coders could do if they had that much more room…they do amazing things with 1K! Oh wait…Tom is talking about the whole different MCU…duh
Wut? I'm using a BLF17DD w/ATTiny13A.
I thought you were referring to the Zilog MCU of other builds…sorry
Ohh - Dunno what happened to Tivo - no updates - design problem on the board he was gonna look at, so I gave up on that project for now.
Hey look at PowerPeg Thermal connectors. They provide the thermal performance of MCPCBs on FR4 substrate.
Below is a link to the website, and also my shared projects.
I’ve done a board like that. Via under the led’s thermal pad meant to have a small section of copper wire inserted.
Hey look at PowerPeg Thermal connectors. They provide the thermal performance of MCPCBs on FR4 substrate.
Below is a link to the website, and also my shared projects.
I knew I recognized your NIC from somewhere
P.S. you camping companion PCB any more info??
It was a solar powered battery charger, with a small LED flashlight, and a buzzer. The PCB was a spindle to wrap fishing line around.
I couldn’t get enough power from solar panel to charge the battery though, so I deleted the project.
It was a solar powered battery charger, with a small LED flashlight, and a buzzer. The PCB was a spindle to wrap fishing line around.
I couldn’t get enough power from solar panel to charge the battery though, so I deleted the project.
Aw man…ever thought of using one of those .9-4vdc~ booster circuits then feeding into a TP4056 charge controller set for 100~mA charge?
Got pics of it? Would really like something like this to tinker with…I built a few joule thief jobbies as well
TEMdude1:It was a solar powered battery charger, with a small LED flashlight, and a buzzer. The PCB was a spindle to wrap fishing line around.
I couldn’t get enough power from solar panel to charge the battery though, so I deleted the project.
Aw man…ever thought of using one of those .9-4vdc~ booster circuits then feeding into a TP4056 charge controller set for 100~mA charge?
Got pics of it? Would really like something like this to tinker with…I built a few joule thief jobbies as well
Booster circuits require power to operate, which would drastically lower the ‘effective’ efficiency of the solar cell. I was going for a charging system which practically pipes power directly from the cell to the battery. However, the project was pretty much a complete failure. Haha. I don’t have pictures.
Pictures of my projects are here:
I found myself creating a DD Roche F6 driver. I didn’t really intend to, just happened. :~
I’m hoping my board gives clearance for a attiny programing clip. Anyone know what the minimum clearance would be? I don’t actually use those clips myself.
Probably won’t use this DD Roche F6 driver myself. I haven’t got into pure DD myself yet. Also don’t even have an Roche F6 yet.
I found myself creating a DD Roche F6 driver. I didn’t really intend to, just happened.
I’m hoping my board gives clearance for a attiny programing clip. Anyone know what the minimum clearance would be? I don’t actually use those clips myself.
So what kind of clips do you use? Sounds like you’re sayin’ you want to buy a roach clip… naughty boy… :party:
I found myself creating a DD Roche F6 driver. I didn’t really intend to, just happened. :~
I’m hoping my board gives clearance for a attiny programing clip. Anyone know what the minimum clearance would be? I don’t actually use those clips myself.
Probably won’t use this DD Roche F6 driver myself. I haven’t got into pure DD myself yet. Also don’t even have an Roche F6 yet.
It’s pretty tight…I know the original build of the BLF SRK the R2 was just a smidge closer than R1 and it interfered with getting the clip on
The 7135 Based SRK Driver V1.1 ?
So v1.1 is ok but v1 was a smidge too close?
Clips, a gentleman doesn’t comment publicly on such things. :face_with_monocle:
I found myself creating a DD Roche F6 driver. I didn’t really intend to, just happened. :~
I’m hoping my board gives clearance for a attiny programing clip. Anyone know what the minimum clearance would be? I don’t actually use those clips myself.
Probably won’t use this DD Roche F6 driver myself. I haven’t got into pure DD myself yet. Also don’t even have an Roche F6 yet.
Would a switch like this work on your build?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/GP11MSV1BE/CKN9059TR-ND/1014127
have you found the verticle surface mount switch for your build?
nope…you need a SMD tactile switch (preferably with gull mount for strenght)
Like this
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TL4100AF240QG/EG4964CT-ND/2685042
Never mind comfy already found the parts
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TL3330AF260QG/EG4389CT-ND/1426859
Put your Oshpark driver projects in this thread and I will organize them here in the op. I would like to put all of the relevant Oshpark projects here as it can take some doing to locate them otherwise but will refrain from snatching them without the approval of their creators. Posting a link here will be considered as tacit approval and I will endeavor to keep this op updated. This thread is for the listing of open sourced DIY projects that are listed on Oshpark not for pirating existing work…
Yes… V1.1 added retaining tabs and moved the resistor over
What is the digikey part # for the Zener diode on the 20 mm Zener Mod Linear Led driver
SOD-323??
http://oshpark.com/shared_projects/H7WGuYpM
This?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BAT43WS-7-F/BAT43WS-FDITR-ND/717698
have you found the verticle surface mount switch for your build?
nope…you need a SMD tactile switch (preferably with gull mount for strenght)
I currently have a pads for a Alps SKSC Series switch on my board. Mouser SKSCLAE010 But I don’t want to force people to make a mouser or digikey order just to build my board. H) Shipping is expensive for people not in the usa. I’ve added extra vias to accommodate common switches from ebay. Something like this Tactile Switch, 2 Pins, 3*6*5mm
More versatile that way
I currently have a pads for a Alps SKSC Series switch on my board. Mouser SKSCLAE010 But I don’t want to force people to make a mouser or digikey order just to build my board. Shipping is expensive for people not in the usa. I’ve added extra vias to accommodate common switches from ebay. Something like this Tactile Switch, 2 Pins, 365mm
Would they just bend the pins to get the right-angle mounting?