Fenix E12: 14500, tiny10 FET, XP-G2, 40* TIR. Finally completed!!

10.5 mm tall, 15mmØ.

I wouldn’t mind if it was ~1mm shorter so I could get a glass lens in front of it for protection, <2months old and this plastic is already scratched to hell from loose pocket EDC.

LedLink makes 15 x 10.45mm TIR in 25, 40, 60 or 80 deg. LL01CR-OTxxL06-M2 where xx = deg. eg LL01CR-OT80L06-M2. Mouser LL01CR-OT

WOW…little pocket rocket…very nice!

Is that a 10mm star? Sinkpad makes copper 10mm sinkpads. What ga wire did you use for the center direct copper bond?

I know 10 degree TIR’s make my little UltraFire 602C have a nice tight hotspot, some say over 30 degrees make them way floody…that 25 degree might be what you are after

In a little pocket light like this I prefer floody so I might look into one of the 60* ones. I’m not sure what gauge the wire is, it came out of my scrap pile, it fit almost perfect in a hole drilled with a #51 bit. I’ll pick up a 10mm sinkpad next time I restock but I didnt want to wait, you know how it is. I tried running it with the Al star at the same level but the blue shift was very dramatic after just a few seconds, now it makes it all the way threw the turbo and then continuously on at 180 with no visible shift.

thanks guys

Awesome. I was the one replying in your E12 disassembly thread. Great to see you’ve managed to mod it. Wow actually, such tiny components.

I was just about to PM you to say thank you, as simple a part of the overall picture as disassembely was it’s actually the part I was most concerned about, I knew I could build the driver, I was worried about taking it half way apart and the pill being stuck.

I’m having a problem with a preflash in moonlight. Is this something a toroid could take care of?

Also I need to unsolder the driver to get to the MCU and change the levels, now that its dark there isn’t much of a difference between 8 and 30, I’m thinking 1,8,75,~150,turbo. Also going to get rid of memory (again in the programming so I dont have to solder stars)

Where would you stuff a torroid into that little guy?

Still…AWESOME build!

Nice accuracy with the drill bit. You might need the resistor on the gate to get rid of the preflash but not sure. What output are you getting on high? I think at ~ 1.5A my test board started to get squirrelly with the 2502 but that was with the standard qlite firmware.

I’m reading 1.552 before the step down but my meter’s had the low battery light on for the last month so I dont trust that number (think its low). I’m out of solder too so I’ll grab a new energizer Li 9v tomorrow when I run to radioshack and get the real numbers after that.

I’m pretty bummed I had to heat it so hot to get it apart, the deformed TIR is really bothering me, otherwise this light would be perfect. Those LEDLink ones might work but I’m still going to look around for a better fit before ordering from mouser and paying $8 shipping on a $2 part, the one in the light is tapered, those ones have straight sides so not sure how well they’d work. Honestly I’d prefer to find a reflector for it even if that means buying a new light to harvest it from.

Oh and I used a brand spankin’ new bit but did it with a hand drill!

Mouser shipping costs always bothers me too.

The white sides you see in pictures is just a holder. You need to remove it from the holder to fit 15mm. TIR itself is 15mm, holder is 17mm.
Product page. Datasheet

Better diagrams are in the datasheet.

Ah, well thats looking like a better option then, especially if I could fit a glass lens in front of it to protect it. I’ll just have to find some other crap I can add to the order, I was willing to use the reflector out of a $25 light, had it fit after all, so $10 isnt that bad really, its just the principal behind it, shipping costs 500% what the part costs.

Nice little rocket! I like the mods dirty on the inside, beautiful on the outside. I hope you will find a new TIR for it.

Question: I used one of those big FET's for a mod with the Tiny10, where can I find these small ones in small amounts and with free shipping to the EU?

I’m using irlm 2502’s (these are the ones in the BLF15DD digikey shopping cart) but I’m not sure where, other than digikey, you might be able to get them, maybe eBay.uk.

You can find these little baby FET’s on almost everything, before I had my digikey order I pulled 5 of them off one charger/protection board from a laptop battery pack I pulled the cells from. Also found a few on the stock fenix driver (different PN’s but I bet they’d work) they seem to be a very common component.

Go to the OSHPark thread…there is a bill of material for the BLF-15DD, the MOSFET is listed there…might be able to find the equivalent at Newark or Farnell

Digikey part no:IRLML2502PBFCT-ND MOSFET /////N-CH 20V 4.2A SOT-23

Found em at Farnell

Thanks, I'll have a look in my spare driver box, there might just be 1 or 2 of them on one of them.

I think I got mine from eBay. If you want I can order more and send them in a mailer like the boards. I think it’s only $1.65 for the mailer and postage and there’s a listing for 10 for $2.35 w/ free shipping. Might be 2 weeks to me then 2 more to you though so check your box first.

Been working on this more today, got the code modified to default to no memory and moon enabled. This seemed to take care of the preflash (think its cause the lowest level is the drivers true moon mode, not just the first mode set to 1) I also got the tiny10 mounted MCU up so its easier to flash.

How are you guys flashing your Tiny10’s? By removing the cap? I did that the first time but now I’ve modded my SOIC clip by filing down the corner a little so it can make contact. I also read that Comfy is running fast PWM on a BLF15DD with a baby FET, my driver is wining quite a bit, think switching could quiet it down any?

You need to increase PWM freq, fast/phase-correct doesn’t really matter. IIRC comfy has now tested different frequencies and fast/phase-correct on several or all of the BLF/Oshpark DD drivers. They all operate.

I found HarleyQuin’s post here helpful on the topic of PWM freq. You want 19kHz PWM to minimize whine. Do you know what frequency PWM you are using currently? If not post what specific firmware you are running and what you use to flash it (such as the batch file you use or the string you use to call avrdude).

Good looking project so far!

Just switch the 0x21 back to 0x23 and you'll be back at ~19K PWM.