Oshpark Projects

[WarHawk-AVG]

@Helios-

I found myself creating a DD Roche F6 driver. I didn’t really intend to, just happened. :~

I’m hoping my board gives clearance for a attiny programing clip. Anyone know what the minimum clearance would be? I don’t actually use those clips myself.

Probably won’t use this DD Roche F6 driver myself. I haven’t got into pure DD myself yet. Also don’t even have an Roche F6 yet.

Would a switch like this work on your build?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/GP11MSV1BE/CKN9059TR-ND/1014127

have you found the verticle surface mount switch for your build?
nope…you need a SMD tactile switch (preferably with gull mount for strenght)
Like this
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TL4100AF240QG/EG4964CT-ND/2685042

Never mind comfy already found the parts
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TL3330AF260QG/EG4389CT-ND/1426859

Oshpark Projects

Put your Oshpark driver projects in this thread and I will organize them here in the op. I would like to put all of the relevant Oshpark projects here as it can take some doing to locate them otherwise but will refrain from snatching them without the approval of their creators. Posting a link here will be considered as tacit approval and I will endeavor to keep this op updated. This thread is for the listing of open sourced DIY projects that are listed on Oshpark not for pirating existing work…

[WarHawk-AVG]

Yes… V1.1 added retaining tabs and moved the resistor over

[WarHawk-AVG]

What is the digikey part # for the Zener diode on the 20 mm Zener Mod Linear Led driver

SOD-323??

http://oshpark.com/shared_projects/H7WGuYpM

This?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BAT43WS-7-F/BAT43WS-FDITR-ND/717698

[Helios1 (Helios-)]

@WarHawk

have you found the verticle surface mount switch for your build?
nope…you need a SMD tactile switch (preferably with gull mount for strenght)

I currently have a pads for a Alps SKSC Series switch on my board. Mouser SKSCLAE010 But I don’t want to force people to make a mouser or digikey order just to build my board. H) Shipping is expensive for people not in the usa. I’ve added extra vias to accommodate common switches from ebay. Something like this Tactile Switch, 2 Pins, 3*6*5mm

[WarHawk-AVG]

More versatile that way

[wight]

@Helios-

I currently have a pads for a Alps SKSC Series switch on my board. Mouser SKSCLAE010 But I don’t want to force people to make a mouser or digikey order just to build my board. Shipping is expensive for people not in the usa. I’ve added extra vias to accommodate common switches from ebay. Something like this Tactile Switch, 2 Pins, 365mm

Would they just bend the pins to get the right-angle mounting?

[Mattaus]

@WarHawk-AVG

@Helios-

@WarHawk

have you found the verticle surface mount switch for your build? nope…you need a SMD tactile switch (preferably with gull mount for strenght)

I currently have a pads for a “Alps SKSC Series”:Products/Technology | Alps Alpine switch on my board. “Mouser SKSCLAE010”:http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/SKSCLAE010/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgGjVA3toVBA1UHfTHbV9%252bbYWI%252bsBK4GU%3D But I don’t want to force people to make a mouser or digikey order just to build my board. H) Shipping is expensive for people not in the usa. I’ve added extra vias to accommodate common switches from ebay. Something like this “Tactile Switch, 2 Pins, 365mm”:http://www.ebay.com/itm/20x-Tactile-Pushbutton-Key-Switch-Momentary-Tact-DIP-2-Pins-3-6-5mm-/181282901735

More versatile that way

That switch looks VERY interesting. Nice tight package for hosts that do not have a lot of wiggle room. Nice find. I might need some to go with the eleventy-seven-billion tactile switches MRsDNF just sent me lol.

[Helios1 (Helios-)]

There are a few right angle switches which are smaller.
I just picked that one because it provides versions with different operating force while still one of the least expensive.

[wight]

Good thinking, that’s a nice option for us picky budget folks.

[scottyhazzard]

I can’t find my link to Matt’s Smart Switch, I guess I lost or deleted my subscription to it. Any updates there?

I have a question for Comfychair, how do you mount your little electronic switch in the tail of a light?

[Tom_E]

Can someone more experienced with the BLF17DD help me, please?

I'm pulling my gray hair out trying to figure out why low voltage mon. is way off on the BLF17DD board I built up. When the cell falls below maybe 4.10v, the firmware starts cranking down output, using the 130 and 120 values as JC uses. So it thinks the battery is much lower than it really is -- pretty much useless. I've double/triple checked the circuit and it match's a Nanjg driver perfectly (diode configured in correct position, R1 and R2 are all good, etc.).

This is a straight FET build, not a zener mod build, just one battery - it's in a Convoy L4 host. This is my 3rd BLF17DD build (pre v2.0 ), and first time I noticed this, though I didn't do much at all in low voltage monitoring testing on the others.

Should this work ok? Maybe a bad chip or something?

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I’ve got more than a dozen of em running and haven’t encountered that. I don’t tend to run cells down so far as to have the driver shut it down, but I’ve had em down to 3.8V or a bit less with no issues.

Edit: Could one of the voltage monitor resistors have bridged, causing a mis-read? (I’d suspect the 1920)

[Tom_E]

Thanks Dale - I've been buzzing out everything, just can't find a problem. According to checking against the Nanjg, it all looks perfect. Hhmm - gotta double check the resistor values.... Maybe I screwed up, or ordered the wrong size... I'll check now. thanks!! Sometimes I look for the hard things, and it's the obvious things I miss .

[wight]

I haven’t built a BLF17DD. You should be able to measure those resistors in-circuit to determine whether they are out of spec due to damage or being faulty. That seems like the most likely culprit to me. I guess too much vdrop over the diode could also be an issue. Diode test on your DMM should show ~0.25 on that. I know you can measure that in circuit on a Nanjg 105c, not sure about the BLF17DD.

I just woke up so my math is broken, but I’m almost 100% positive that the ATTiny’s VREF tolerance (+/-10%) cannot account for this problem.

[wight]

To build the 20mm ‘Zener Mod’ Linear LED Driver as a regular single cell 7135 based driver, all I need to do is jumper R3 and leave D1 unpopulated… right?

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Think so wight, but you’ll probably want better confirmation than mine before you proceed.

[Cereal_killer]

@wight

To build the 20mm ‘Zener Mod’ Linear LED Driver as a regular single cell 7135 based driver, all I need to do is jumper R3 and leave D1 unpopulated… right?

Are you planning on using a regular nanjg protection diode on this? If not then yes just jumper R3 but you could use a regular diode over R3 for polarity protection if you wanted.

[wight]

Oh yeah, thanks Cereal_killer. I forgot about reverse polarity protection.

[Cereal_killer]

Is it okay to run them without the protection diode in a regular 4.2v single cell setup if we dont mind not having polarity protection?

[Tom_E]

I got the Diodes (BLF17DD part D1) from DigiKey, as in the shipping cart list. I don't see any white or line mark on these at all. The Nanjg ones are labeled S4 with the white mark on the 'S' side, and the DigiKey ones are labeled 41. Any idea how to place these?