floating lumens! my integrating sphere project

Initial measurements and alterations.

1) First thing I found is that the sphere was out of range at more than about 720 lumens. So I made an aperture in front of the sensor. I did that with duct-tape, as shown above. But during the following two weeks the readings of the same lights appeared to drop slowly. I first was afraid that it was caused by yellowing of the inner coating of the sphere, but then I thought of the piece of tape. I opened the sensor area and found indeed that the tape had slowly come a bit loose by the slight tension with which it was applied. That changed the properties of the aperture slightly and caused the measurment drop. I took the tape out and replaced it by a black piece of B&W-film I had somewhere. It could move around a bit after insertion, so i sticked small pieces of film between the sides until everything was tight:

I re-assembled the sphere and from now on I had very consistent readings.

2) Before and after the bariumsulphate/latex coating I took measurements with the unfinished sphere, expecting that the reading of the sphere would increase dramatically after applying the coating, because of improved reflectivity. Well, unfortunately that was not the case, in contrary: the readings dropped by 20%. The coating looked really white though. I still can not explain why the readings should be lower with the coating, I only hope that at least the reflectivities of all wavelengths of the colour spectrum have become more equal by the coating, so that I have had at least a reason to go through the trouble of coating .

3) The light output of the adjustment light appeared very very constant (as hoped and expected). I used it to measure the impact of the presence of different flashlights that were flush with the entrance hole of the sphere (the measurement position), the flaslights were off, just the adjustment light was on, so that the readings were a measure for the light sensitivity of the sphere, that is different for every 'hole-disturbance' :

50mm hole empty: 176

50mm hole with Sunwayman D40A: 191

50mm hole withConvoy M2: 183

placed the insert with 30mm hole: 203

insert with 30mm hole with Ultrafire K10: 203

insert with 30mm hole with copper led-mounting device+20mmSinkpad: 202

As you can see, the impact of 'what's in the hole' is quite large with a 50mm hole, and must be corrected. You can even measure a clear difference between two flashlights of the same head diameter, one with black bezel, one with silver bezel. When the insert with 30mm hole is put in, the impact of 'what's in the hole' becomes hardly measurable. So without the adjustment light to correct this, the sphere would suffer severely from the 50mm entrance hole size. A 50mm hole like I have here would without correction only be suitable for a larger sphere, like 40cm diameter instead of 20.

4) Based on the first rough measurements, the sphere as it is finished (with aperture) can measure up to 3300 lumen, and as low as 0.002 lumen. I like that range!

5) Linearity test of the light sensor: if you measure the adjustment light and another light separately, will the reading of the two lights switched on at the same time be equal to the added readings of the separate lights? Yes!

(with 30mm hole) adjustment light:152, UltrafireK10-mod:107, both:260

(with 50mm hole) adjustment light:135, ConvoyM2-mod:202, both:339

6) comparison between ceiling bounce measurements and IS-measurements of the same couple of lights. I have not done these tests well enough yet, initial results show a clear difference, perhaps caused by sensitivity of the ceiling bounce method to beam patterns.

7) influence of the 9V battery on the readings of the luxmeter. By accident I left the luxmeter switched on overnight (it has no auto-power-off) and was afraid that the readings would have altered. I measured the same lightsources with the old battery and a fresh one: no difference. this means that either the meter works fine with a low battery, or that it is uses so little battery power that you can leave it on for days without problems. Both outcomes are fine to me :-)

8) I had to find a suitable conversion factor from sphere readings to lumens. That conversion factor is different depending on 'what's in the hole', as shown above. For bare led measurements with the 30mm hole+ledmount I came up with 1.58 (reading times 1.58 gives lumen) ; for the 50mm hole with the SWM D40A it is 1.58*202/191=1.67 (I used the readings of the adjustment light for the correction here). I chose this conversion factor because with it the SWM D40A on high setting calculates exactly at 550 lumen, what is the output on high according to official specs of the light (very convenient, the D40A is also one of my reference lights ). Of course different units of this light will vary, but several other measurements I did with the sphere, together with old ceiling bounce results I had also point towards round about this conversion factor. Until I have an officially exact measured lightsource this conversion factor will have to do. But don't be surprised if it is 5% or a bit more off in the end .

This is it for now. There's tons more to measure and adjust if I want, but I won't, I am going to put the sphere into use with what I have :-)

Jeetje!

Very impressive and ingenious , sir .

I am hoisting a beer in your honor !

I really want to do this, it seems like an awesome project, the only thing holding me back is my meter is to expensive (especially considering the additional $120 I just paid to have it calibrated) to take it apart and mount the sensor inside a sphere like is required.

Your work looks really good. That soldering is amazing too. Congrats, I imagine your pretty proud of it, I know I would be.

thanks for the replies, guys.

This was the fun part of the report, estimating the real performance (how precise it is and what calibration I should use) of this (or any other) integrating spheres I find really difficult, but I made a start with that, it will be in the second post.

I will be proud whenever I have exactly figured out the ins and outs of this thing, how precise it is, or how not precise.

Nice build. Any reason for using Oslon instead of regular CREE? Their binning is tighter?

Wonderful! I did a lot of research, but I never ended up doing a sphere. I liked this pdf file on the subject and I was going to use Anatase Ti02 and Varathane interior gloss diamond water based polyurethane. I decided it was just too much money, since I wanted a 24 inch sphere and the foam sphere was way out of the price range. BaSO4 is also a real good idea for a sphere.

Great to see you doing it and looking for all the results!

No particular reason at all. It is about as efficient as a xpg2, so the output was good, and this one was not going into a flashlight anyway, it is 5700K, too cool for my taste.

It is indeed a waste to disassemble a perfectly working and even calibrated luxmeter (I'm jealous btw), but that is not at all necessary, you can clamp the intact sensor to a sphere as well (it just occupies a bit more surface). In fact that is the way all others that made an IS have done it, as far as I have seen.

mineetje!

Thanks for the pdf-link, I had not seen that source. I like the abrasion set-up with the vacuumcleaner, actual science often looks like that . In the article they said that they did not use BaSO4 because it formed cracks in the paint, but the way I used it mixed with latex paint does not produce any cracking, the coating is even slightly flexible, it survives light deformations of the styrofoam.

24 inch is a nice size, and over here a 24 inch styrofoam sphere is not that expensive: 18 dollars. If you ever decide to go ahead with the sphere, please let BLF know (I'm sure you will :-) ).

This is such a nice project. And I am just envious of your dogged determination to make the best IS in a budget friendly style. Love it.

And thank you for the reflow porn. Would you believe me that I was feeling just as impatient when I was waiting for that final little wiggle/slide the emitter does when the solder melts in your video as I am when I do it myself. I don´t think flashlight pron is good for my heart! LOL

Such a nice project so far. Really looking forward to your findings regarding corrections and accuracy. Keep it up :-)

(Sorry, only makes scense if you have seen "Breaking Bad TV-series".)

Nice project! :)

Nice work as well as read. Thanks for sharing and all the best for the rest.

!!

[quote=Illuminaria]
!![/quote]

LOL, I was wondering already if anyone noticed that I stopped working on it. I still have to do some tests on it before I start using it but started doing other things. Thanks for trying to keep me on the job :-)

Light leaking through the wall of the sphere is not of much concern… your calibration constant for converting lux to lumens will take care of that. And the same goes for external light getting into the sphere. Just subtract the “LED off” reading from the “LED on” reading. Even less of a concern with your sphere-in-a-box that blocks external light.

In fact the Sphere-o-Many-Mysteries has a ultra-bright light testing mode where I mount the lux sensor to the outer wall of the sphere and use the styrofoam wall as a light filter. It can handle around 600,000 lumens that way. Normally the lux sensor (a Taos TCS3210 color sensor green channel) looks into the sphere through a 1/8” diameter hole in the sphere wall. The sphere wall can act as the baffle, but I do have a piece of white cardstock as a baffle. The sensor is mounted around 45 degrees from the light port.

I saw some tests that showed the just sanding the gloss off the inner surface of a styrofoam sphere performed pretty much as well as a barium coating.

Any updates? I really like seeing these projects. It's a kick in the butt for me to finally getting around to making one. I really should build one since I don't have a convenient space to measure throwers with my lux meters. I even went to the hardware store to buy the parts to build an integrating plumbing pipe, but they didn't have the parts that other folks here have been using. It looks like I can get 30cm styrofoam hollow spheres online though, so I'll go that way. That part is easy though. It's calibration that I'm not looking forward to.

I have precious little time for the hobby at the moment (writing posts is a bit easier than actual hobbying, I can only really work on things when the family has gone to bed and in the last couple of weeks I have been too tired to go hobbying late at night)

Concerning the integrating sphere, I'm still measuring/troubleshooting to get within the 1% accuracy that I aim for. The latest problem is that the output readings of the same flashlights and leds are slowly declining over the last couple of weeks. I already found out that it is not a battery problem of the luxmeter. Leftover is 1) declining reflectivity (yellowing?) of the coating on the inside of the sphere, which would be disastrous but I do not consider this likely, and 2) slowly peeling off of the piece of tape with the hole in it that I used to decrease the sensitivity of the sensor. So next step is to dismantle the IS and have a look at the piece of tape, I really hope that that is the problem because that makes for a relatively easy fix (not use tape but something that stays in place better).

By the way, if I would make another sphere I may not bother with a coating (just stick with careful sanding of the styrofoam inside of the sphere with fine grit paper to decrease direct reflections), the integrating properties and angle insensitivity of the sphere without coating appear to be ok already without one. Also I would perhaps start with a bigger ball, in my sphere I really need the adjustment light to compensate for the with every different flashlight varying reflectivity of the hole area of the sphere, but with a considerable bigger sphere (like: bigger than 50cm diameter), the effect of the hole may be more negligable.

Real calibration will still be a problem, also for me. The only way for me is measuring as many known lightsources as I can, and make a sort of 'average best conversion factor'. I already found that the ceiling bounce lumens that I collected for the several lights relative to each other do not exactly match with the integrating sphere readings, the reason may be that the ceiling bounce method is more or less sensitive to the detection angle of the luxmeter (in other words: the beam profile of the light source), in the IS the angle is obviously not supposed to matter.

Nice build! Can get barium sulphate on Ebay. I will try to use some if I make a sphere, though I’d like to see before and after figures.

Was the meter really overwhelmed at 200000 range without the duct tape?