Is the i2 the same/similar as the ITP A3 EOS? If so, I think that driver, etc. come out from the battery end of the head.
I haven’t ever taken my A3 EOS apart, but I’m assuming that you may be able to unscrew the driver from the rear of the head? On my A3, there’re 2 holes on the edge of the PCB that could be used with tweezers to unscrew it.
Maybe you can try bending a paperclip into a “V” shape. The tips of the “V” go into the holes on the edge of the driver and then try unscrewing counter-clockwise.
I don’t know if a paperclip would be ‘stiff’ enough, and I don’t know if that driver is glued in or not, but might be worth a try since the light is dead now. If you can get it out, it may be that the leads/wires from the driver board to the emitter board broke off and you can try soldering them back.
That, or maybe possibly cracking the PCB, are about the only things that might go bad, esp. since these are twisties.
I’m guessing those 2 metal pads are for reverse protection, but before trying to take the pill apart, I’d probably try something like:
- touch the + side of a known-good battery to the positive contact area of the driver, then
take some wire and touch that to the negative end of the battery to the metallic side of the pill (e.g., the threads).
Then see if it lights.
Looking at the pill now, I’m wondering maybe when you dropped it, the negative ring on the non-contact side of the driver might’ve separated from the pill.
Anyway, try the simple test above first to see if it lights…
Wow, lucky there wasn’t thread locker. I despise glued pills.
As others said, test it first. Assuming no joy, gently pry up the driver & see if there is any component with a visible broken solder joint.
No response from the driver, but yellow spot in my eyes confirms the led lights up when powered directly. I think this might be the end of the road for this light.
Do you see anything from the driver board that’s in the pic that’s contacting/shorting the bottom of the emitter? Maybe when you dropped it, the impact caused the driver to contact?
Worst case, I think you’re saying the emitter is working still, so just find a driver that you can use to replace the apparently-dead driver - that’s what I’d try to do anyway…