I, er, accidentally de-domed it, while soldering the leads to it.
Fell right off. Guess I got the base too warm.
Oops.
Used it anyhow.
Result is a lovely amber zoomie, smooth flood, nice image of the emitter at zoom.
Now I want to try, I guess an XP-E2? Mouser has the colored Crees ā XP-E, XP-E2, and XP-C
Hm. around $2 for XPEBAM-L1-R250-00901
around $5 for XPEAMB-L1-0000-00901
danged if I can tell the difference.
Same pattern for reds and other colors. Time to study more.
Ack.
Any source for amber and red XP-E2s already mounted on a good base?
Else, Iām going to have to learn how to do surface mounting.
The first order code you posted is for a Gen1 XP-E (XPEAMB), the second order code you posted is for a Gen2 (XPEBAM). Cree uses the letter B in their order codes to designate Gen2 emitters, I think thatās across all their lines.
I think not. intl-outdoor doesnāt even sell amber emitters.
Iām not aware of anyone selling amber emitters on good stars.
thereās one: discount code ādealsmachineā and make sure to unselect insurance on checkout dealsmachine.com - Informationen zum Thema dealsmachine. (sorry for the distraction).
Ok, I found Oldlumensā video on surface mounting a tiny LED, I guess I can do that.
Thanks for clarifying, Iāll get one or two XPEBAMs and Noctigons and follow your lead.
hereās their index for the two different vintages for those amber LEDs; just a slight difference in forward voltage (tenth of a volt) and power rating (half a watt) between the first and second generation:
Creeās XP-E and XP-E2 datasheets do not show a performance difference between the two generations of red LED that djozz tested (as far as I can tell). Unlike the white gen2 series where 85c is used to test Gen2 instead of 25c on Gen1, yielding roughly similar flux numbers, Gen1 and 2 of color XP-series LEDs is shown at 25Ā°c.
Whatās interesting here is that when djozz tested a gen1 vs gen2 red XP-E, the Gen2 was still better.
Any special tips or best advice on doing the soldering of these little tiny emitters onto a Sinkpad?
Those contacts are only separated by a hair. Iāve seen OldLumensā video of doing it by heating the Sinkpad from below with a soldering iron, and Iāve seen someoneās of slowly heating it in a frying pan on a stove.
Iāve got an infrared thermometer, so I can manage temperature control ā in theory.
But I wish I had a hot air gun I could set to the right temperature and heat from the top instead of underneath. I think.
Hm. Well, as I said above Iād dropped in that XR-E amber from Fasttech, just straight swap for the one that came in the light.
Stock driver.
(Didnāt glue it in in, just pressed it down snug with the plastic washer, same as the original emitter, silly of me, I should at least have tried Fujik goop)
Last night ā for the first time ā I ran it for about 15 minutes straight on high level, ceiling bounce.
It got pretty warm, but no noticeable problem with it.
Today it started to flicker (with a NiZN 1.8v cell); switched to a 1.2v Eneloop and the flicker went away, but then the brightness dropped drastically, went back to bright, went dim again, cycled a few more times and itās dead.
So, I guess I overdrove/overheated it. Shouldāve
This is a hollow pill light, the emitter just sits on a rim inside; Iām puzzling how to improve on that.
Maybe itās ājustā a dead driver. I put that in quotes because the 15mm drivers these things come with seem to cost as much as a whole SK68 on eBay (~$4). Grab your DMM and put it on diode test mode (triangular diode symbol w/ line, use Google if unsure). Check the emitter with that.
Seems more likely to me that itās either a physical problem or a bad driver than the emitter dying from heat in this config.