10+
Double click strobe kills a driver for me.
Looks good. I like the double hole for the lanyard.
I think the extension tubes would be better with the same knurling pattern through out.
I wanted to mention that but resisted just to keep my list of changes short.
AR coated glass
Hold to ramp (log brightness scale, 2-sec pause on max and min)
Memory mode for physical switch
$20-30 is a very nice price for the light!
Im not big on knurling, I find things drop if I let them go, not because of the lack of knurling. Ive never been holding something like a torch in my hand and had it drop despite my grip due to the slippery surface.
Perfect.
These two make sense to me.
The other one, no idea. So maybe that too.
I too am not too fond of the cutouts in the tail. Think it would better without them.
No PWM. Check! Shouldn't be hard, as all it is is programming. Maybe 100%-30%-5%-moonlight?
Once the driver is completed by Mr. Fang, I will upload pics and give more info about it.
As for the fins, whats wrong with them? I like them :) That and they are based off a pre-existing mould that Warsun already has, which makes the price very cheap for us. To lose the fins, they would have to create a new mould, which cost $2000-$5000, so I think we will just keep them :)
I didn't think of this, but makes a lot of sense. Also, I forgot to mention one can turn off the light from the side switch by holding it for 3 seconds, basically putting it in standby. I think that would be a better for a long press. That being said, maybe we can make it a quick 3x press within 0.25-0.35 seconds to activate the hidden strobe and beacon modes? Surely no one is going to to be changing modes that quick, will they?
I agree. It is an easy fix, but was told by Mr. Fang it would bring up cost. As it is now, we would be getting the 1x18650 base tube, then could presumably can order the extra tubes to extend the flashlight as an additional option. But I will keep this in mind. Trying to keep cost as low as possible.
I love ramping modes as well! I will inquire about this, and see if it can be done as well as how much more, in both effort and cost it will add. I'm really trying to find a perfect balance of modes, that won't make it complicated to operate. Seems I will have to put alot more thought into how this will be implemented, and also make it usable.
As for the AR lens, I will ask and see how much more for it.
remove the fin and that stainless thingy on tail
other is like above,but if it can use 26650 will be a + from me 
If we can get an at coated lens, ramping modes and neutral white ithink this light would be killer
Add $5 to the price, before cutting or leaving something quality out.
After checking out the Warsun website, this appears to be the MX900 with a stainless tail cap and then upgraded driver and having lost the dayglo green stripes on the extenders.
Myself, I would prefer the ET26 with maybe one extender, or none and a really hot 4 amp custom driver. It will run a 26650 or 18650 and then you wouldn’t have the hassle of Buck driver and serial batteries, just an easier mod freindly unit when one battery.
ET-26 is only 5mm thicker at battery tube so it is not a club. Head diameter is listed as 49mm, so just 1 mm bigger then the MX900.
What is the difference in Reflector depth between these 2 models?
It’s all good, I do not currently have any Warsuns and have been waiting for them to get some distribution, but I am all in.
Great to see a Mfg. willing to do a custom run that would appeal to it’s customers.
Thanks,
Keith
I like this. I find that this makes a versatile driver. Honestly the Q-lite Rev A from intl outdoor is a good basic driver that I like a lot. I like it better than the standard Nanjg 105c because I can’t accidentally change groups to the blink modes~~ which I do quite regularly.
You are correct, the BLFX is based on the MX-900 which was chosen for it's square knurling and good looks! Mr Fang will not make the driver go over 3 Amps due to Cree's data sheet stating 3.0 amps max. He is very firm with this and I see why he will not go above 3A. It brings potential and unwanted overheating/short lived driver and LED issues. So we decided to make the driver 3A max.
We are also in talks about the ET26 as well, being as it can do 26650 or 18650, but that would be for a later date. As of now, we are focused on getting the BLFX - 18650 flashlight designed and produced, and see how well it is received being 18650's are the most popular li-ion battery format for flashlights on this forum. The 26650 battery is not so widely used, or available, or affordable as the 18650 batteries are, that's why we chose the 18650 flashlight for now.
Hmm… does Mr. Fang not realize that we’re driving XM-L2’s at 6.5A on copper?
Do you know how moddable the driver is in terms of pushing the current to the max? Any photos of the driver would be greatly appreciated.
I wonder why there are so many (7+?) differently designed patterns on thi light an no one is more used than one time?
I think the bezel depth block the light thus reducing the output somewhat… I agreed the tail cap just too much for me not to mention different color than the body is kind of turn me off from buying the light…
If anything I would like the ET26 or A60 with extender tube goes to production with 3A driver as it gives option to use different batteries and option to use the light as dual function to charge other device ( smart phones, Ipad…etc )
BTW with all my Warsun light… why do they made the switch on the side the same function as the one at the bottom?
can they just make the bottom as power on or off and side switch as modes? just like convoy L4 or Yezel Y3 lights?
Tail-cap lock out?
Will this accept longer batteries or flat tops?
Ramping would be a plus.
How about parasitic battery drain?
Have you considered a turbo mode with a timed step down?
Very interested & looking forward to this.
i would like to be able to turn on the light with the forward/side switch. i think its already made this way, but just to be sure…or itll be a deal killer for me.
and having that momentary on is a plus for me also.
have mode memory, or somehow have access to highest mode when in off position. i dont like it when lights start on low mode, and you have to ramp up or change to higher modes.
maybe put a blue or green glow in the dark o ring on the bezel.
make sure the switches are not so spongy or too much play.
itll be nice to have different options for how hard we want the emitters driven.
some might like ours super hotrodded, like me…hahah.
oh…which warsun light is this anyways…the 900?
how many leds does it have?
and maybe a dedomed option might be nice hahah but i doubt he will do this.
$20-$30 for a good quality light? i am in!
i have a newbie question.
i don’t have any side switch light.
can the side switch use with traditional driver like the Nanjg? or does it require a special driver? how does the side switch connect to the driver?
According to the OP, it has a forward clicky tailcap. I’m assuming that that means that the tailcap switch is used to turn the light on/off and if it’s off, there wouldn’t be any parasitic drain. If that’s the case, tailcap lockout would be redundant?