NiWalker Nova MiniMax MM15 2x Cree MT-G2 P0 5233lm LED 18650 Flashlight

Hhmm. To guess, I'd have to know at least a tailcap reading, and don't have that yet. Actually to take a reading, thinking I'd have to rig up a 4 cell, low resistance carrier with heavy gauge wires, and plug it into the carrier.... Hhhmmm. Think guys on CPF were posting amp values - not sure how they got them... Because the battery carrier is also the driver, it's not so modular... There's probably an obvious way but I'm still pretty limited in my test equipment.

I think this unit's output and amps is quite dependent on cells - resistance, age, charge level, etc. I'm mostly speculating at this point, but the couple of readings I did is indicating that. 5,200 true OTF lumens on fresh cells ain't bad for a light this size. Plus it will be able to do that level output more than just a few mins, and not go up in smoke or drain the cells. It's not quite ready for search and rescue for hours of use, but it's more than a "wow" effect light.

I really do like flooders and this one may be the reigning king at this price point and certainly form factor. My modded J18's can compete with this, but at a different level of course. They laugh at 5,000 lumens...

Edit: vinh says stock is 4.4A -- not sure how to interpret that, but best guess is 4.4A to each LED, so maybe not a good # to use to figure out battery life.

Thanks Tom :slight_smile:

to measure amps you could try to use very flat copper bars…

copper/insulator/copper - solder the measuring wires to the copper and fit that sandwich between a battery and that button on the pcb…

Interesting idea, may give it a go. The unreliability of the e-switch is very frustrating though. I may be contacting NiWalker over this -- I'm finding it unacceptable in a $200+ light.

As you probably know, alot of Vinh’s customers are raging over the MM15’s switch, sounds horrid and probably something they need to revise

No - haven't been keep'n up over there. Interesting... Bad news is it's all on vinh because he is the reseller. I think he's a direct with NiWalker, so he is the responsible seller -- ouch, becaue I know he makes good with his customers. If you notice, a couple of the MM15vn's are being posted for sale already - seems no reasons stated for the sale, but betta one reason is the flaky UI.

I bet the other reason is that turbo can’t be used for more than 2 minuntes, then it’s basically a crap SRK with 2000 lumens.

- could be true lionheart, but those 2 mins are moments of luminous glory... Just double click to continue at your own risk, if your double click works that is...

Only if I have an oven mitt handy!

Mods I did so far:

  • added 22 AWG wires in all 4 springs
  • replaced 24 AWG LED leads with 20 AWG, same length
  • replaced thermal grease under the star with smaller amt of GC Extreme
  • used NO-OX-ID on carrier screws and threaded connectors of the carrier
  • sanded the underside of the copper star smooth to 2500 GRIT - there was some weird imprinting on the back of the star - NiWalker in reverse, other markings -- just weird, never saw this before

All results indicate nothing changed, really. Still getting ~5,200 OTF at 30 secs - it dropped heavily from turn on, which is about ~5,500 lumens, but did the same before. So this means it's a pretty well regulated driver. Don't think the changes are for naught because I'll up the amps with a resistor mod eventually. I would think the resistance mods should help more at higher amps, and maybe help extend battery life -- I'm guessing...

During my testing, the light went dead though - switch would not do a thing, no more blinking green LED - thought I killed it. so took out the batts, re-inserted - everything returned to working. This makes me suspect the firmware locked up. Wonder if it's related to the e-switch. Either there's mech/electro issues with the switch, or the de-bouncing logic is a disaster. Sometimes it takes 4 clicks to get a click to work, usually 1,2 or 3 though.

Ok -- think I isolated down to force applied on the switch. More force, the more reliable it is. Just because you hear/feel the switch doesn't mean it will work. This is sort of good - this means it should be fixable by switch replacement, I would think...

appreciate your sharing this light, I’m hoping more will. Thanks Tom.

I’ve had this issue on old computer mice clickie switches. They wear out and the contacts get cruddy. Shouldn’t happen on a new switch.

Well, I found others mentioning this same exact problem with a new MM15. Yes - same thing happens to my TV cable remote after some time - you have to press harder and harder... But this is as it was shipped, so different, but the same (?). I could get used to it, and now that I know, it makes it much easier to use. I'm thinking not all units have this issue though. Probably one day I'll see if the switch can be accessed - maybe I'll find it's not aligned properly. I should just start a new thread and take a poll because I know there are a few BLF'ers with this light now, modified and not modified.

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Working for me.

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that’s kind of weird. If I copy and paste the code it doesn’t work. But if I just type it in it works. Oh well, got it working. Now I just need an ‘installment plan.’

You might have a space at the end when you copy, thats not there when you type it.

I have this light
http://www.niwalkerlight.com/content/?275.html
The switch is damaged though I did not use it much at all. Now it doesn’t have the 2 clear level clicks. I can only do a soft click and it turns on low or mode 2 I guess. If I click strongly it will go to turbo.
I can’t change modes.
How do I fix it? How do I open the switch - it has 3 dents in each corner
Where do I get the replacement switch?