Did the ones with the different drivers also have different labelling? Wasn’t the original one for this GB a “SkyFire” or something, and then they switched to “Ultrafire” (now)? Maybe that was the reason for the driver differences in yours?
The five I have so far are all Ultrafire. Two different drivers.
Aargh :(!!
is the driver ring reverse threaded? I cannot for the life of me get mine to come loose
Got it…not reverse threaded…took alot of elbow grease and some very choice words and threatening to get the big hammer 
Fixed that supid next mode memory…upgrading soon, going to put a XM-L2 on sinkpad, not sure if I want to put a nanjg in, or resistor mod this driver, solder braid upgrade, thicker wires (the basic upgrades) to see how well it does, 1.7~A high stock…bleh
Just got mine today. Seems ok for the price tbh. No real visible PWM that I can detect. Pulls 2.11amps on high.
Beam is good. Next mode memory sucks though. What exactly is the ‘pencil’ mod?
Also any tips on getting to the Led? Bezel comes off easy enough but haven’t managed to get the lens out.
ON the driver there is a capacitor right next to the MCU (controller chip), you take a #2 pencil and scrub it across the top from one side to the next, the graphite creates a high resistance shunt across the resistor, when you turn off the light, it drains the capacitor down resetting the MCU back to default (hi mode) next time it comes on, this way when you turn off the light, wait a few seconds, turn it back on, it always comes on hi, you can actually go hi>mid>lo>off back to hi>mid>lo without ever going to the epileptic seizure flash modes, but the modes are still there if you need them.
otherwise with next mode memory it goes hi>off>mid>off>lo>off>strobe(epileptic seizure)>off>sos(epileptic seizure)>off back to hi
Received my 2 in the mail today. Both worked fine, thought there was something wrong with the lens but it was plastic stick on protection. 
When I removed the body and tailcap they threaded right onto my 3c DST which was a nice surprise. Was wanting to do that conversion for awhile, was a nice bonus.
Thanks. I’ll give it a go. Although the driver in mine doesn’t look like that. More like the one posted earlier in this thread.
all those parallel resistors ,do they effect the current ? in case we add more on top of them.
See: Group Buy for the GearBest Ultrafire F13 - Closed?
Apparently, you can move the + lead on the driver to the other output pad to get higher current…
I received my 2 today and as yours was, mine also have different drivers.
The one with next mode memory was the hotter of the 2 measuring 2.2 on high, after moving the + wire to the other output tap and performing spring braid mods, it now pulls 3.40 on high! and output drops quick (Need a sinkpad:), 1.75 on medium and .45 which is a nice low.
This light has a warmer tint than the lower output one. Did the pencil mod on the Cap and it resets real quick now. Love that Mod!
The one with the quick mode reset pulled exactly 2.0, 1.0, and .50. Talk about some spot on regulation.
After same mods as the above one, it increased to 2.82, 1.45, and .70
Output does not tank as quick as it’s hotter brother and pulls some comparable ceiling bounce numbers.
With the slightly whiter tint, it is very close to the other light in appearance of beam. Hot spot on these lights is fairly tight.
To sum up, these are very nice flashlights, the threading is much better than I was expecting and the lens are nice and clear, reflector is very nice with no flaws. Each light had the protective cover on the glass, nice touch.
Now, after a simple Noctigon upgrade, I will have 2 very nice budget lights.
Big Thanks to Old Lumens for putting this together and Gearbest for delivering the goods, even if it was aboard the slower boat from China
Thanks,
Keith
OK, so one of two (so far) drivers, and the first one mentioned earlier is shown at
(where we also read “The led shelf is part of the head, no removable pill”
Hi,
How are you all getting the driver retaining ring out? I tried (want to move the + lead), but it wouldn’t budge :(!!
I had to hork the ever loving bejesus out of mine to get it loose
Not sure if they glued it in or they used a Chinese version of Arnold Schwarzenegger to put it in…but it was in there good!
I use a pair of snap ring pliers from Harbor Freight, but yes they were flexing a bit before the ring let loose.
If you do not have these or some strong tweezers you could try tapping a sharp punch tip with a small hammer on one of the dimples. The vibration of the tapping may loosen it easier.
Good luck,
Keith
Hi,
Ok, I got the ring out. I had to use a spanner wrench to do that. Here’s what I have:
As you can see, the pad where the + lead is attached is labelled “26650+”, and there’s another pad (also circled in yellow, but unlabelled).
So, to get higher current, do I unsolder the red lead from the “26650+” pad and move it to the other pad as shown in the image?
Thanks,
Jim
That’s where to move it.
I untwisted mine to make the wires as long as possible for the soldering procedure, then re twist.
Pencil that Cap while you have it apart.
Enjoy!
Keith
Thanks. I’ll give that a try when I have a chance. I had good results on a different light (this one: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1700404) with a similar mod, so it should be a good one.
This F13 is turning out to be a heck of a deal, huh, thanks to O-L and gearbest!
Yes, you can’t see the traces, but that long row of resistors, it is between the output pin of the 8 pin FET and the 26650 pad, current limiting resistors, the pad on the other side completely bypasses the resistor bank you get the FULL output that the FET can produce. If you really want better power to the emitter, then get thicker gauge wire as well.
APM9435 datasheet
[PDF](javascript:openreq(‘ANPEC Electronics Corporation 126018, 1 datasheet pdf’))
Pins 5,6,7,8 are all the drain (tied together)
P.S. When you move that wire put some heat sink compound under your star…mine came with none, it WILL get hot when you move that wire…count on it
WarHawk-AVG,
Ahh. So by moving the + lead to the other pad, and bypassing that bank of resistors, it’s basically really direct-driver + the Rds for the FET, on high mode?
And yes, I was thinking that I’d go to heavier leads while I was at it, and thanks for the reminder re. adding some thermal compound under the star.
EDIT: BTW, I don’t know if it’s just with the light I have, but I’ve noticed that there’s a bit of a doughnut hole in the center of the beam when it’s up close.
Looking at the reflector and centering ring, it seems like the centering ring might be a bit too thick, so the top edge of the centering ring is almost at the same height as the top of the XM-L dome. Has anyone tried tweaking the center ring piece, or maybe tried one of the butterfly-type insulators instead, or maybe even just some kapton tape instead of the centering ring?