Off to work on a Saturday. I’ll post the links in the op this evening.
I really like wights open contact ring…very very versatile
Oh and Cereal_killer my SK68 board the first one I built I am not sure either
A. I compiled DrJones luxdrv with ramping only incorrectly [initial compile I didn’t change the “ramping” number to 1…so it would throw off something] or
B. I have bad 7135’s due to the fact it won’t reset, flickers, locks up acts all crazy
I haven’t successfully tested a board completely yet…if you are confident with it…then give the thumbs up on it…I just can’t verify yet…glad it’s working 
Wasn’t it said somewhere that 7135’s won’t go as low? If you go for a real low moon they act up? And also something about the PWM rate? Might check that out as well. Sorry I don’t have more pertinent information, but I am not using anything it pertains to and well, my memory is kept in a minnow bucket with oversized flow holes.
Sweet. Looks like they came out more or less as intended!
Thanks for posting the pics.
Wow,
very nice. Hardly can wait to get mine. Shipped the other day, might take about 2 weeks now.
Thanks for the pictures, nice to see that the layout seems to work well.
Yeah…I think it was my compile, I didn’t change the location of the ramping in the code and I used fast PWM
Cereal_killer did a few video’s for me on the next re-compile and it looked as if it worked on his builds, ramping was clean and worked as compiled
(if he want’s he can post links) It’s a SK68 with 100% variable modes w/ memory
I just have to rebuld my driver and give it a shot, using the slow PWM he reported it ramped smoothly (fast PWM went all wonky)
Way cool!
A little cleanup of the inner tabs and a few shots of solder and BLAMO…instant 22mm Nanjg…NICE!
hi RBD, this battery-carrier is therefore no longer untested, so the the OP might be updated for these triple AA boards??
Here’s a few installed pic’s.
I was hoping the added height would make it so I could use a normal size spring in this balder SE2 but not quite.
I think the op is now up to date.
26mm, 20x7135 slave: http://oshpark.com/shared_projects/KQTF0CnE
4 x XQ footprint emitter PCB (I'm uisng this for a WRGB P60 module): http://oshpark.com/shared_projects/cY3XbNnp
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WORK IN PROGRESS: "Medusa" SRK Replacement PCB: http://oshpark.com/shared_projects/NuBPKgTp
Complete all in one package replacement PCB for SRK style lights. Not sure why I'm posting this. Maybe someone else will be interested in trying it out. I figure it'd look cool having the electronics all exposed in the face of the lights, and multiple different lights for different uses.
You will have to use the stock driver PCB as a dummy contact board. Highly recommended to add a heat sink to the rear of this board. Given the height of the topics chosen this board could be stacked on top of aluminum or similar to bring the optics closer to the SRK lens.
- 4 XP footprint emitters driven via 70N02 FET through Carclo 24mm quad optic (board pre-drilled for this optic).
- Single XP footprint emitters driven via IRLML2502 FET through Ledil Lisa 2 optic (board pre-drilled for this optic).
- 3 XQ footprint emitters driven via 2x7135 regulators per LED. XML Reflector 12mm in diameter (no mount holes for a reflector).
- There are two LED+ (BATT+) connections on the board but they are electrically the same. I just couldn't get the traces down for one solder point so had to split it. Both LED+ pads connect to BATT+.
- MLCR doubles as the SW+ pad.
Controlled via PIC16F1825 in TSSOP-14 package. Debug/programming points included. Designed to use ttrev3's MLEDv2 firmware without modification: http://tterev3.blogspot.com.au/2014/04/meld-v2.html
I had a link to the firmware but cannot find it right now. The single XP emitter is connected as if it were the UV emitter, while the quad XP emitters are connected as if they were the white emitter in the WRGB array of the original. Red, green, and blue are all connected as normal.
I plan on using a medium flood optics with 4 nichia 219 emitters for the quad, dedomed cool-white XP-E for the single emitters for throw, and then regular XQ R,G,B for the reflector.
Should be a versatile light for camping. I was going to use a UV emitter in place of the single emitter but I couldn't find a reliable source for a cheap UV emitter. That and I think throw will be more useful.
- Matt
Nice! Good idea. Just this weekend I was reflecting on how useful it would be if more electronics could be easily exposed in a custom light without complete disassembly. Replacing or building a driver is something that we try to explain to muggles, but if you can show then a PCB with components on it, that makes the explanation much easier. Right this moment I don’t remember exactly what my idea was, but it wasn’t as cool as this one…
When you piggyback on to the M6 board you are using the 7136s to supply the current to the FET gate, instead of driving them directly like we do the 70N02.
UV can be very useful camping and exploring. Minerals light up in pinks, yellows and blues, scorpions light up pale yellow. Lots of cool things with UV but not much throw and as you noticed, not easily sourced. Very neat project. I hope someone puts it together and posts pictures.
I am going to order the PCBs next pay. I have an SRK that's been waiting for something different to be done to it.
I have the PERFECT heatsink for this
https://www.etsy.com/listing/85401509/copper-disc-20g-50mm-blanks-cutout-for?ref=sr_gallery_10&ga_search_query=50mm+copper+round&ga_ship_to=US&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery
Bond that board to that copper round with alot of solder paste stuffed down in the vias! (well with a few holes drilled to make sure the batt+ didn’t ground out by accident 
[I really think this board needs it’s own thread!] seriously 
Regarding the 12.2mm tactical switch by Helios, how do I incorporate this effectively in a switch for a light that takes 18350’s etc.? I suspect that it is more complex than a simple swap. I am trying to make a light that can use the Star firmware in the version RMM did with the double click to strobe and the switch is my sticking point.
Helios' switch board is just a thing to mount a pushbutton on one side and wires (or header pins) on the other. Meant as a direct replacement for SRK-style lights.
Adding a side switch to a light that didn't originally come with one is a much trickier project. You need a pocket for the switch PCB to sit in, and then a button on top and an outer bezel to retain it all in the light.
I’m traveling right now, so I can’t measure but I was imagining that I might be able to remove the clickie from a solarforce or similar and measure the diameter of the board it’s on and tweak the gerber file to that diameter, order, solder and replace. Would that work?