Oshpark Projects

Thanks Helios, any suggestions for a tail clicker?

This RMM driver (double click for strobe) is meant for side button, right?

I’m afraid something different would have to be done for tail clickies.

I know I missed this somewhere? Where does the 130 or 100 ohm resistor go on the BLF17DD rev 2 to 4? Marked R3 or marked R4? There's no definite source to find out? Thought the assignment used to be on the OSHPark page for BLF17DD but it's not there. Richard's website has conflicting info - doesn't list it where he lists the parts assigned to the board, then does include a 100 ohm resistor in the kit -- but doesn't say where it goes?

If it does go in the R3 spot (guessing), then does the R4 spot have to be jumpered?

** wish there was a way to search within a thread, or at least get search results to link to a post. These large threads are a total PIA... If someone knows, please don't use post links -- just a post #...

Edit: Crap! think I answered my own questions by tracing the routes on the BLF17DD -- should be on R3, and looks like R4 is not necessarry to jumper out. Someone please confirm?

This is my first BLF17DD (I got 6) - think I'll take detailed pics when it's all tested...

Your correct, R3 is 130 (gate) and R4 is the pull down and can be left open. R3 if not used has to be jumpered.

You would need to make it so the batt is always connected and have to run a wire to the tail switch (which would go to MCU pin2, pressing the bottom would cause a short to ground).

You could also get a nitecore piston drive host (like my D10) to use momentary FW with a tail mounted “click” switch. If you did want to go that route I have THE board for you.

I built this, it is the V2, if it worked fine before I tried the v1;)

I uploaded the file eagle (sometimes no matter oshpark well all) maybe I should upload gerber files;

If you want you can improve PCB;)

happy to help communities BLF!

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/Ss2qkDsS

Thanks Killer.

OMG!! Built up a couple of BLF17DD (V2's I think??), put one in a SupFire L6 (C8 size head/reflector but uses a 26650). Wow, just wow! 1,462 OTF (I measured) from a XM-L2 T6 4C. I think I'm loving this tint... A KK 4200 gets 5.7A, a Powerizer gets 6.2A, LG HE2 gets 6.15A, and 6.05A for a Sam 25R.

The heat sinking is done up well (SinkPAD - GC Extreme - screwed down the SinkPAD - 1.5mm copper disc soldered to a brass pill top - thermal/electrically conducted greas on the pill threads), it sure gets hot in a hurry, so the heat sinking is working.

So this is tested?

The V1 was wrong The printing on the + and -

and the size of the PCB was 12, now it is 16mm

The V2 is tested and it is ok.

Same light with the same driver and an XP-G2 S2 2B has some nice throw, nice tint, pretty awesome at 4.66A, 943 lumens…emitter is domed. Those “copper” (brass) pills that I got with the light are threaded wrong, thought about forcing one in and brute force changing the threads on something but ended up leaving the aluminum pill in. Still get’s hot quite fast. Not so bad as the harder driven XM-L2 though.

I used this: fasttech-C8-pill, but it's been out of stock forever. It's a standard brass pill for C8's, also sold here: lck-led-brass-pill. The copper C8 pills from VOB also fit (I threaded it in fine), but again had a lower height. The SupFire L6 aluminum pill had an o-ring to elevate the LED/star, like they designed the body or pill wrong. With the brass pill, I left out the o-ring and used a copper shim bought here to elevate the SinkPAD.

On that BLF 17DD-Zener Revision 2, Mattaus put it up on June 1st, looks like, but I don't see any discussions on it? Probably too early for someone to test these? Were Rev 1's tested? I like the layout - better than the zener diode piggybacking the cap. On a BLF17DD I just built up, I mounted the zener diode laying on its side on the inside of the cap -- looks clear of possible spring mount.

The only change I can see on Rev 2 is a slight shift of the Zener diode with larger solder pads. My original BLF17DD Z is exactly the same except for that one component. I’ve used several of them and like how they work. I AM finding though that some of the components on these boards tend to be very close to the outer edges of the board, possibly making contact with the shelf in the pill that is normally used for grounding purposes. Just have to make sure that shelf is very narrow and doesn’t cause conflict.

I had also been laying the Zener on it’s side around the cap instead of stacking it, for the clearance and ease of soldering. I’ve been using pretty much nothing but BLF boards since all this started, on everything. I DID utilize a Qlite once recently and had thoughts that I might have forgotten how to stack a chip…

They both work, but Rev 2 works with the SOD-123 diodes that we normally use; on the first version I was still stacking on the capacitor. The main reason for these is low voltage monitoring, otherwise the BLF17DD is the same deal.

RBD, there is a typo in the OP: "changed diode from SO-323 to SOD-123 and relocated star2". The old component should be SOD-323

Thanks!

Oh no! :zipper_mouth_face: I’ll fix it. I think I was just copying the info on the Oshpark link. Thanks for picking that up. I had wondered about it at the time but don’t know enough about components for that level of editing.

K, thanks! Funny, I just did the same exact thing - laying the diode on it's side.

See my new BLF17DD ref thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27210. You and several others I'm sure don't need it now, but I'm trying to keep an online ref, specially for those this is all new to. If you notice anything amiss or may be needed there, shoot me a pm. Trying to keep the thread uncluttered. But the idea is to use the OP as a one source reference for the BLF17DD versions.

Hhhmm. Low voltage monitoring? What do you mean exactly? Is the SOD-123 diode the one you provide in your zener kit? The SOD-323 is the standard one used in the FET driver, and Nanjg/Qlite I assume?

Zener mods typically disable low voltage monitoring since the 19.1k resistor is the wrong value for a higher voltage and the Zener latches the input voltage so that the mcu no longer “sees” the battery. Separating the voltage divider from the Zener allows the mcu to once again monitor the battery voltage as it drops and only requires a new correct value for R1 to read it correctly.