Only the difference should be the 100 ohm resistor that's been added. Don't think anyone knows for sure why it was needed on these BLF boards, but in some case (most?) it prevents flaky mode changing I believe. The diode should be identical to the one from the Nanjg/Qlite boards. It's an SOD-323 (digikey listing and datasheet - ZLLS410.pdf) but labeled 41.
nice!
Thanks for breaking this out into a separate discussion. Is anyone else getting and empty digikey cart with the current link?
Edit: comfychair's link works. Thanks comfychair!
Great thread Tom. TY!
http://www.digikey.com/classic/Ordering/AddPart.aspx?WT.z_cid=Shared_Cart is not the link for the shared cart, it’s the URL after you’ve clicked the shared link and parts have been added, you need to use the shortened link from the pop-up box. Or right-click/copy the link as given in the Oshpark projects thread.
Parts list for 17 & 20DD, for 10 drivers: shared cart- 17&20DD, qty 10
Save yourself some trouble and order the resistors in batches of 100 at a time, it's only $1.22/100. The 19.1k can be used for both the voltage divider and the gate pulldown (R4). There's no reason not to use R4, anything from 10k to 20k is too high to have any negative effect on the signal to the FET, but will make sure there's no residual charge left at the gate during the time when the MCU has commanded the FET 'off'.
In response to your question on the R3 value, I believe 100ohm is about the bare minimum and 150 is to high. Your not noticing any ill effects with that one, skipping modes or not switching when it should? Have you tested it with both physical clickies and momentary button setup’s?
I’d be more than happy to drop a few 130ohm 0805’s in a regular mail envelope for you, I have a strip of 1000. PM me your address if I can hook you up.
Your soldering is extremely clean. I use an iron so I get a good amount of extra solder everywhere when I do it, yours look very professional!
Awesome Tom… now I dont have to search further, excellent details too 
The cart link in the Oshpark thread seems to work.
Sorry - been out all day - wifey and I had a car accident this eve - she was driving... No one hurt, but more like a strong fender bender.
I do have qty 100 130 ohm resistor on order from yesterday, from California, so hoping later half of this week, so I'll be set. Thanks for the offer though 
.
Haven't noticed any issues - only used/tested in a conventional reverse clickie. Actually I should have cleaned the board with iso. alcohol, but didn't. The hot air reflow method is great! Love it! The heat gun I use is cheap, like under $10-$20 maybe? It's a "StampAbilities Heat Embossing Gun". This is one example: ebay-stampabilities-heat-embossing-gun. A friend had several he uses for small PC board projects in hobby rocketry and other side-work projects, and he gave me one.
I gotta fix that link. Thanx comfy!! Just tried to copy the link RufusbDuck had... HHmm...
Oops, updated again from comfy (includes 130 ohm resistors) I updated the DigiKey parts list link in the OP - please try again, thanx!!
How low do you adjust the air on your hot air reflow? Doesn’t it blow all the components off the board?
I adjust the distance I hold it from the board - this gun has no adjustments at all. I was leary of this, but why my friend loves using these things is it's pretty low speed on the air, unlike conventional hot air guns. In the few boards I did, it happened only once on the diode which is the smallest high sitting SMD, but only happened because I did not have enough solder on the pad. All I did was add solder paste, push it in good, then it worked fine.
I guess I should experiment with the different sized nozzles. I’ve only ever done one component at at time, and hold it in place with tweezers. With full air, it’s soldered down in seconds.
Turn the fan down and the heat up. I use the fan on around #4 and the temp at 310-330, I don't know what the actual temp is but nothing melts but the solder and nothing gets blown off.
Are you still using the YIHUA like mine?
Yes, 858D.
2008D
Ohh - I do all parts on a side at once. I use gentle circular patterns with the heat gun, until all solder contacts turn nice and shiny. This embossing heat gun is very simple - I've even used it for LED reflows. Think he bought it at Michaels, here: michaels.com/surebonder-proheater-tool, but it's labeled different now.
I have the 858D as well…I set mine at 300, lowest air setting, when I start I start farther back, let the heat soften the flux in the solder, it makes it tacky and the components don’t blow off the pads, once nice and warm close in to reflow the individual components
I like to make sure the FET is placed towards the center, trying to allow the positive lead some room to be away from the edge of the board. I know this can lead to issues with the FET being too close to the ATiny to allow a re-flash, but I’ve trimmed that side of my clip to make it skinny to facilitate this. I don’t usually flash on the board anyway, but like to allow the possibility to change firmware later
By keeping that positive LED pad clear it’s easier to keep it from grounding out on a pill. I also like to cut away the shelf in that area on the pill to make sure it doesn’t still contact the actual pad. I do NOT want a 30A capable cell shorting out in my light!
I’ve used about 25 of these FET drivers so far and am loving the power level they bring to the table. The hot cells like a 20R or C4 give full blown output, control can be found through use of PF’s or other less potent cell chemistry, enabling the user to limit a 6A+ light to 4A or so through proper cell selection. Simple as changing batteries. 
One last thing I’ve started doing is to apply coverage of critical components with a coating of Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive. This is like extending the silicone sleeve to ensure contact cannot be made, thus further easing my mind on possible shorts and adding some support to the LED leads on the board. A very thin layer of AATA is easy insurance anywhere something might possibly touch.
All good points Dale! Yes - I tried to position the FET more to the left and up (in the pics), but it slid downward when the solder paste liquified - probably should hand solder the FET to better control it's final set position... I gotta incorporate all of these points in the OP somewhere... Thanx!
You may have done the most qty of these boards than anybody, including Richard.