Mine from banggood were XM-L2 (some were getting XM-L)
I want to get the sc01 in the neutral white, but it sounds like they only have it in the XM-L. What would be the downside of getting this light in an XM-L instead of the advertised XM-L2? Is it really that big of a difference? (sorry, i’m new to the flashlight scene) Or would I be better off getting the sc01 in cool white in order to get an xm-l2? It sounds like neutral white may be more useful, but I understand that’s all personal preference. Thanks!
Some shops offer XM-L2 NW also.
Not only Banggood, others too.
Prices vary.
I think you bought them before the hype, before the backordered batch.
i just recieved my set of these, and all came with the XM-L2 emitters, but different tints. I noticed though the start is different than usual stars, it has three wires connected. a + , -, and a N.
Have anyone modded these yet with regular starts like a copper noctigon ?
Could neutral be a way to pull heat from the mcpcb? I've talked about doing that, except soldering it to the inside wall of the head, and I might finally give that a shot now that I've figured out how to electroplate copper onto aluminum.
I haven’t torn it down far enoigh yet to see what the N-wire is form or tried a regular star yet.
3rd wire is main ground for driver.
Can you mod these to change the driver and/or emitter?
Emitter sure (swap out the aluminum star with a sinkpad or noctigon…driver, were workin’ on it 
How does that work when there's thermal compound under the mcpcb that electrically isolates it? I can see when it's soldered to the body like in your light, but using the star seems backwards. Even if the star is held down with screws, it's not guaranteed that the screw will make electrical contact, especially when there's dielectric under the heads of the screws.
I got an sc03 and it has not worked properly since I received it. The power button only sometimes turns it on, sometimes it just flashes when I press. Sometimes it works but just turns off after 20 or 30 seconds. I am getting a replacement sent but does anyone have any idea how I might revive it?
Than that’s all good, they look like great hosts with the Olight styling. The electronic switch might be a problem.
After using it only a few times (less than 10 minutes of total use), my SC01 has started to flake out on me, flashing and turning itself off. I need to find something to pop out the pill assembly without destroying the driver. If I can do so, I may as well do a driver swap.
Also, in case anybody cares, the TIR optic that fits in the Convoy S2+ fits really well in the SC01, as long as you reuse the lens and replace just the reflector.
I had my SC01 apart to swap the emitter once. ( i removed the emiter first then pushed the driver out from the front)
Thanks, it was much easier than I expected. I just used the biggest socket that fit in the battery tube and gave it a couple light taps with a mallet. Now to troubleshoot the flakiness.
Has anyone replaced the lens on their SC01 yet? I gifted mine to a friend, but the lens has broken and I want to order a replacement for him... I don't have the light available to measure... Anybody know the diameter so I can order spares?
has anyone done mods to these lights. i really like my sc03 but want a bit more output
I don't have a caliper, but I'm measuring about 22mm x 2mm with a ruler.
how it handled a low/drained battery?
The SC01 I purchased and gifted to a friend in June has died this month, only lasted for three months. The light was operated using NiMH cells only, no 14500s. When he brought it back to me, I tested using both known-good cells and a 14500 but it wouldn't function either way. I completely disassembled the light, which turned out to be much easier than expected.
- Press the head of the light firmly against a rubber surface, (e.g., old inner tube, shoe sole, etc) and twist CCW to remove bezel.
- Remove lens/reflector/o-ring
- Press pill out of body; I used a couple of stacked sockets of the correct diameter to fit the battery tube, then used a large C-clamp to press the pill out through the head.
On removing the driver from the pill, I noted corrosion on the components. It looked similar to what you would see if liquid had entered the light, but it's been kept dry. I cleaned and checked the LED and solder joints, but the driver is definitely dead. I'm fairly disappointed with how long this light worked.
Second note, the lens is an odd 22mm diameter. The light had been dropped once before, and the lens had cracked. The lens size isn't common, and I was unable to find a replacement lens through normal sources. I could have purchased a flat glass watch crystal cut-to-size via an ebay auction I found, but it would have been over $6 after shipping. That's the only option I had found after a cursory search...