blue and green XP-E2, output tests

Blue is good for blood tracking, wether in your hunting gear or first aid /trauma kit for finding the source of wounds.

Also, blue (especially royal blue) makes many things fluoresce without the hazards of UV.

thanks for the results ,I hope intl-outdoor will get the rest colors soon

Yesterday I took my Red XP-E2 in use. I had to delay putting it in use due to the contest build. But now im back to normal modding. I have no idea what to use the red emitter for. Buts its a good amount of red at 2,5A. ;)

Thank you so much for doing these tests. Makes it so much easier for everybody to know how hard we want to push the various emitters and what to expect in terms of output. Not that I plan to order these from Cutter, but its interesting to see. :)

oh.. thanks to MRsDNF`s wife too. :D We love her. :love:

:beer:

thanks again for these tests djozz. and yes it would be great if intl-outdoor could sell these colours on noctigons!

This is the second thread that has mentioned MRSDNF. I'm not sure what is going on here. She is a terrific women to her kids and she loves them more than anything else in this universe. Anyway I'll pass your message on.

I find those results vary strange, because there is so much difference between the XP-Es and the XP-E2s, and the XP-E graphs are far from other output graphs I have seen. Is it really possible to generate so much light at 0.1 A, or does that violate the conservation of energy?

Question about the red XP-E2:

Why does the red E2 die have lines like a 1st generation die but both the blue and green E2’s have 2nd gen die’s (with dots)?

Edit: half asleep, NVM.

On another note I find it interesting that the red LED did so much better then the green LED, it has always been my understanding green was the more efficient one, part of the reason being that the human eye is better at picking up green light vs red.

Have you experience those uses of the Blue? I have read a lot on this matter and that seems to be the answere all over. However on CPF some people said they used Blue in the above mentioned situations and was not useful at all.

According to the datasheets:

Blue M3 - 45.7lumens @ 350mA
Red P3 - 73.9lumens @ 350mA
Green R2 - 114lumens @ 350mA

What is very interesting how the tests shows Blue being the brightest then Red and then Green, quite the opposite to the specs I wrote above from the CREE datasheets. However that order it best observed at 2A rather than 350mA, 2A not being a current which CREE would recommend. At 1A it would be another order Blue the brightest, Red and Green Equal.
Maybe the response of the lightmeter is different for these pure color LEDs.

Just want to share these pic’s here in this thread to

Red and green XP-E2’s dedomed threw an aspheric (blue is XT-E) unknown current (ramping UI)

Red 1.8A

Full power (1.8A each)

Yes sir, of course they would say that lol. It’s not like magic or like a fluorescent material that’s going to glow, I’ve explained it before… Its hard to describe, it’s like a bright dark hole if that makes and sense. Since the colors we see are light reflected back and there’s no red light to reflect back off blood when using a blue LED you don’t see red but the blue light makes the blood shine nice and bright so its like a bright shiny dark spot.

Ive used it hunting quite a bit and also used one last summer when two of my dogs got in a really really bad fight and I needed to clean all the blood out of the yard, I can tell you from personal experience, this isn’t just something that should work based on theory, it really does work and quite well.

I know this is an old thread, but valuable none-the-less! Thanx djozz! Couple of Q's:

  • I know you have a much better light meter than most of us, not sure what meter you used to do these tests?
  • with my cheap meter, I definitely measured green brighter than red with both XML color LED's and XP-E2's. Any chance you can re-visit the green test?

Fyi... First I ordered color XP-E2's from DigiKey, the realized later these are bin rated, and Mouser has better ones Frown. So, I ordered various top bin color XP-E2's from Mouser and just got them in. The bin specs were quite good:

Red - P3 (same as DigiKey, same as yours)

Blue - M3 (Mouser - same as your)

Green - R3 (Mouser - 1 up from yours)

Royal Blue - 37 (Mouser - whatever this bin means)

Red-Orange - Q4 (Mouser)

Amber - Q4 (Mouser)

I mounted a green R3 and red-orange Q4 on 16 mm Noctigons and built up pills for a UF-1504 to run at 2.48A (6*350mA 7135 + 1 380mA 7135). My intention is max throw. Measuring with my $35 light meter, I got the following for lumens in full flood, throw in full zoom-in:

Green R3 in UF-1405, 2.48A: 211 lumens (@30 secs), 160 kcd (800 meters)

Red-Orange Q4 in UF-1405, 2.48A: 119 lumens (@30 secs), 85 kcd (583 meters)

The lumens are pretty low - could be the poor aspheric flood mode of the light/lens, not sure...

In use outdoors, the green in full zoom is like a laser beam, while the red-orange's beam can hardly be made out. Lighting up a tree about 80 meters away though, the red-orange looks pretty darn bright compared to the green, maybe about the same (double the kcd though isn't much difference). Also note the red-orange looks pretty much exactly like red I've seen on other LED's/flashlights - I could not tell the difference. The red-orange's dye looks exactly like a red dye in both color and having the lines on it (like a XP-E/XM-L, etc.).

The cheap spare pills available for the 1405's is great by the way for testing/comparing. I bought 2 UF-1405 hosts and 2 spare aluminum pills from GearBest. The pills were $1.50 when I ordered - now see them listed at $2.50 (should have ordered more). The aluminum pills fit great and actually have more threads than the brass stock ones.

In the 1504, running a red XP-E2 P3 at 2.4A, I was able to see with my naked eye objects at 400 yards. I tested the green too but I hate using green to hunt so I don’t even recall how well it did. Green seems to be affected so much more by fog and moisture and dust.

Updated my posted with throw distances. Ok - cool! Glad to hear you have a red in a 1504. Practical use/results right now seems to be the best - not sure how red's are handled in my light meter. I thought the red looked better outdoors than on my meter.

I'm using the green just for kicks - freaks people out when you shine it in the sky where there's always 1-2 planes in our area. It's hard to convince them it's not a laser.

Have you de-domed a red or any color XP-E2? Wondering if they come out same way as the whites - better throw, less lumens. Can't recall seeing it posted.

I posted it in a thread where I tested a bunch of LED’s. I did get more kcd but not as significant as white LED’s.

Ahh - ok, sounds familiar now so I probably forgot it. If you can locate it, or if you got any #'s saved, would appreciate it. Interested bout tint shift, if any, too.

It’s buried in here somewhere. I don’t recall any tint shift. I do recall that dedoming the red was a real PITA and required a fair amount of heat. The dome just didn’t want to let go.

Ohhh yes, stupid me. Forgot you did al those 1504 tests! Interesting read in the thread, btw...

@Tom: it must be fun to have a 1504 pill for every colour.

I used my chinese Tondaj luxmeter still, in these colour XP-E2 tests. I see I did make a reservation for a wavelength error in the OP at the time, but it is even worse than I thought then: compared to my high quality luxmeter, the Tondaj reads 4 times (!!) too high in blue, 20% high in red, green is about right (as is neutral white btw, see my 'luxmeters, thoughts and findings' thread).