OK, looks like we are in business for good this time.
Sorry for the delay. Finally got a chance to get a MCU and buck controller trace shot. Wight, I will have to get back to you on clockwise/counter later. I'm too tired to think straight right now. Actually, the trace picture below should answer what you are seeking. Full power is going to the bottom left Pin in the below pic. The Pin above it is the Ground. The second Pin up on the right side of the MCU appears that it could be for voltage dividing.
As discussed earlier in the thread. PWM is coming out of the top left MCU pin in the above photo. The trace show it going into resister to ground and through another resistor to the bottom left Buck Controller pin. Duty cycle readings with a DMM confirmed the PWM signal at both points.
In the past, I tried to get the driver to turn on feeding power to the top left MCU pad, but nothing happened. I would like to try that again as I wonder if I did something wrong. It seems like it should work.
Anyway, relocated the PWM feed to the lower left Buck Controller pin and am now getting normal current readings at the emitter. With stock resistors current read:
PWM Current
1 Too low to realy measure. Says .01 amps sometimes
3 Same as above
9 Very low. less then .06 most of the time
27 About .28 amps
100 1.9. ish amps
255 Almost 7 amps
Added one R10 and got the following readings:
PWM Current
1 Too low to realy measure. Says .01 amps sometimes
3 Same as above
9 Very low. less then .05
27 About .3 amps
100 2.3 ish amps
255 Starts around 9.7 and drops fast and stabilizes just above 9 amps
Here are a couple pics of the set up.
Check out the size of those stock resistors. That green resistor I added is a 1206 size. For other pictures that may help more clearly see the connection points, see Post 39. Just keep in mind that the wrong pin on the Buck Converter is used in that post.
I only ran the driver for about a minute or so. Since I don't have the beefy brass ring to absorb heat, I didn't want to run too long. Driver was warm to almost hot. Heat seemed to be from the voltage sense resistors and the Large Diode/FET side of the driver. My impression is that the driver will run fine at this current if properly connected to the pill for heat sinking. The large diode is rated for 10 amps per the data sheet.
Something was whining pretty loud at PWM 100. Mounting in a light might mute most or all of it. I'm not really concerned about it. If anyone wants me to try anything to get rid of it, let me know. I can't guarantee I will get a chance to try it, but will if I do.
Here's another trace shot. It's hard to get the traces that are over the cell side positive terminal.