Review: Eagle Eye X6 (1x XM-L2, 1x 18650)

Thanks for the nice review. Wow, great light and look at that clip and lanyard too. They look high quality for such a low price. Does this light accept 17mm driver? I plan to get a moonlight mode using qlite.

That is awesome if they can do that.

The stock driver is 16.86mm (measured on the rough tabs, widest part). The ledge the stock driver sits on is 18.12mm at the widest and 16.09mm at the thinnest, so a qlite driver with it's components on both sides will sit flush on the ledge with good contact; however, the spring side would need modification in order to utilize the 21.38mm x 13.00mm x 3.99mm brass retaining ring (Outer Diameter x Inner Diameter x Thickness).

Or one of these little numbers can be used with some extra chips stacked.

The driver cavity is approximately 8.2mm deep. The shelf the star sits on is about 3mm thick (it has been machined down flat for the star to sit on), and unmachined area surrounding the star is 5.4mm thick.

The lens is some very nice glass 2mm thick with a nicely finished edge. As noted above the reflector does have a lip around the diameter of the reflector that allows the thick O-ring to sit against and the glass to sit upon the O-ring. It is indeed a truly well thought out design.

Thanks unknown00101 for the info. I might get one too.

With the resistors replaced, I’m getting 4.51A and 1370 OTF start lumens. Thats a simple change of the 2 R180 sense resistors to 2 R10, and an XM-L2 U2 2C on a Noctigon.

I love mine, I’m waiting on my XML color sinkpad’s to get here, I’ll be putting an XML color and a custom RGBW driver in my first one but I’ll definitely be watching for a GB, for the right price I’ll pick up one for sure, maybe more.

If I want to drive it at 3~3.5A range, will 2x R100 do the job? Do I replace the R180 resistors or just stack over them? Sorry, I have yet to try resistor mod before.

Stacking an R500 on one and trying it should be pretty close. I don’t know how this driver reacts to only one stacked resistor. If it acts funny you might try stacking 2 of an R500 (one on each R180) or closest you can find. I think if you come in higher than your’e looking for you could limit overall output by cell selection. Using something like a Panasonic 3400mAh cell would give good run time and not allow the major current, so it’d be a good choice to control top end output while keeping run time high.

Wight or Richard could probably elaborate more on this than I can.

Use an online parallel resistor calculator to get close then see what you can find that matches up. Take it from there.

Hi guys,

what will be the best driver for this light, and anything others need to change?

I really do not want to do the flame thing, but may have to try.
Put it in a vise with wood on the sides and a rubber strap wrench and it did not budge.
I really like the light as is, but would like a little more punch, so I hope to get it apart with out damage.
Really like the flashlight as is, great for the money.
later,
Keith

Banggood, this is a sweet light with an excellent build. If you were to put a driver in it that gave 3.5-4A with no blinkies and a moon mode you’d have it just about right. The vast majority of users do not use strobe or SOS, it might be nice for them to be there but hidden so they wouldn’t have to be scrolled through on the way to off.

A very low moon in the 2% range, then 15, 30 and 100% would be very nice. If it’d came that way I wouldn’t have changed a thing.

I’ve only had the light in my possession a few days, but I liked it from the beginning and it grows on me more every day.

Thanks for a job well done.

Send a DO NOT Glue request to your supplier. Save them money on the glue and serious effort of opening up from our side. Thank you.

I just de-domed mine and it’s quite impressive! I have a welders lens for viewing solar eclipses. I used it to look at the emitter while on High at 4.5A, and with a scalpel I precut around the edge of the dome then applied light pressure lifting from the negative side until it released. Came off pretty clean and the tint looks nice. This is an U2 2C. Puts quite a lot of light at 100 yds, easily reaching out 200 yds and more.

Yes, the head was warming up pretty good at that power, but it didn’t get hot in the few minutes I was just using it…I’m thinking the fins are doing a good job dispersing that heat and the quality build contributes throughout.

Liking this light more all the time! :slight_smile:

Poor TX25C2 is gonna get left at home, there’s a new high power EDC in town. :wink:

I agree with DBC’s. Strobe and SOS is never used. I would have bought this if it didn’t have SOS. That’s the only thing I hate about it!

the manufacturer said 3 mode and 3A driver is OK, and the current of each mode can be made as us request, so what's the best current,

Neil, can you ask them for 4 modes with moonlight modes too? moonlight-low-mid-high. I guess I’m happy enough with 3A driver or even 3 modes without that strobe.
Edit : exactly as DBCstm mentioned earlier “A very low moon in the 2% range, then 15, 30 and 100% would be very nice. If it’d came that way I wouldn’t have changed a thing.

OK

I'll ask him.

Nice review! Im looking for something in the $20-25 range however the beam looks
too similar to my c8 to justify

Is anybody else impressed by this? What other product/manufacturer/retailer fields feedback from customers and makes direct changes? That’s awesome.

I don’t really know what current is best, I hope others can bring some input into this so we get a better all-round light. I’d buy it when the changes are made.

Thanks unknown for the additional info.

@ Banggood

This driver would be a great place to start for most of your flashlights.

The 4th star mode layout is very well spaced.

4th Star : 5mA - 2% - 25% - 100%

Great review. Thank you :-)