Smiling Shark SS-5039 1 x AAA size flashlight, modification notes, Now 3 x 7135 with modes, on a BLF Tiny 10 board.

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Fritz t. Cat
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No attempt to fit the reflector to the flatter led yet.

Metal conductors as resisters have the advantage that the resistance increases with temperature.
That was with Li ions in both. The Efest in the 5039 was charged to about 3.8 V.
It ran for about 8 minutes, to much reduced light at 3.0 V. Warm but not really too hot to hold.

Charged to 4.21 V, I get 2.4 A, which is as much as most of my 18650 lights draw, dropping off at a rate that is in inverse proportion to battery size. This is with both the original springs in the head, some Nanjg 102 circuit traces and the original pill wires. I don’t know whether the tail cap resistance is more or less than that of the multimeter and leads.
Because the SinkPAD does not fit an XP-G, it has an XM-L2 T6 4D. So one can’t expect much but pure flood.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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The Smiling Shark SS-5038 is similar to the 5039 except for a shorter narrower cylindrical head and a thicker walled wider body and tail cap. To get a smaller light, I filed the front threads on a 5039 body shorter to fit a 5038 head. Head and tail threads of both are all interchangeable, except for length. I also filed the plastic pill shorter to allow more battery space.

The 5038 has the same nice finish as the 5039. The hybrid is still thicker than a MagLight Solitaire, but not by much.

Later:
Here is what it ended up with.

The copper pill is split, the easier way to make it fit the head. That is an Osram left over from an SK-58 that I modified.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

Fritz t. Cat
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WWW wrote:
Always liked the looks of this one, but wasn’t sure if it was worth the trouble. Despite not having any moding experience whatsoever, I need to ask if it would be possible to do some mod of any kind? I think for this price I may just buy it, regardless of moding capabilities.

I hope my beam shots have answered that question.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

Fritz t. Cat
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The tail is also shortened now. Still original works.

Only the tail cap is 5038. With the ridge filed off, it continues the 4039 body. There is still enough thread to make the head shorter. The switch is replaced with a thin brass sheet and a bit of sterling silver wire for a key ring eye, left from a jewelery making class.

I might have used the 5038 works, without a spring and a spring on the tail plate, but I don’t have an acetylene torch to melt the jewelry solder, and it is hard to solder things on both sides of a good heat conductor with the same solder.

Later: This ended up direct drive with only one small spring. The twisty switch has taken some time. I have not run it at 4.2 V.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

hank
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> acetylene torch to melt the jewelry solder

What temperature do you need?

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My jewelery class teacher was not mathematically inclined. I put some on the brass plate and put my propane torch to it, and it didn’t melt as it did with the acetylene/air torches we used in class. I think the alloy is mostly silver and zinc. It works nicely for jewelery because the zinc, which lowers the melting point, oxidizes or evaporates or something, so the previous solder tends not to melt when you solder on something else.
For the key ring eye, it might have been stronger than tin lead solder. It is also available in various melting points.
It should not be confused with ordinary “silver solder” which probably has no silver in it.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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I got it to go with only one original spring and thicker wires. (That spring is now collapsed.) It read 2.4 A with a 4.0 volt cell. It has multiple problems about the screw lengths and especially about the (x) driver board (I think) having too many conducting edges. It worked long enough to prove the concept, but is not on my key ring.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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The jewel thief driver boards have more connections than are actually used for the two components. They are cut down from a board for a bigger and more complicated driver. There are half vias around the edge for connecting the bottom outer negative ring with a top outer ring that has been cut off. These may be one of the problems with the twisty. They come off with a triangle file.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

hank
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I think you’re talking about jewelry “hard silver” brazing — that comes in several different temperature melting points so you can assemble something out of several different pieces, by using lower-melting silver braze for each successive joint.

This is a useful discussion thread; points out the temperature range you need (much lower than what oxy-acetylene produces):
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/welding-brazing-soldering-sealing/25490-si...

Here are some, I don’t know this supplier but it seems to have a wide temperature range:
http://www.praxairdirect.com/Silver-Brazing-Alloys-Including-Phos-Flo/10...

This torch is often used with it — it’s oxygen + propane (I’ve had one for decades): http://www.smithequipment.com/files/pdf/spec_sheets/Little_Torch.pdf
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Thanks. As I said, what I have melts with air/acetylene and not with air/propane. I could use some that does melt with air/propane but hotter than the 60/40 solder I have. I could have used that today on my second direct drive conversion, but what I really lack is practice. I have done welding, but oxygen/propane would be too hot for the sort of things I am doing. I don’t think I want to buy anything else at this point, as I have put out enough for leds, stars etc.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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They seem scolloped or almost cusp shaped, cut with a round end tool.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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The shortened one is working now. With an SP-G2 it has a bit more throw.

It draws 2 amps. charged to 3.8 V, with only one short spring and 22 gauge wires. It has a 10 mm. aluminum star, so I don’t trust it long with 4.2 V.
Cree XP-G2, 10mm Round MCPCB, R5, 3D Tint (5000K) from Illumination Supply.


There is a smaller inner copper tube bent and soldered to the outer one.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

ImA4Wheelr
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Nice mod.  I don't know why I have a soft spot for these cheapo lights.  This one reminds me a bit internally of the "Police" lights I modded, but threaded head and nice texture on the body. 

Does the pill, reflector, lens come out the front of the light?

I'm kind of confused by the various links towards the beginning of the thread.  What is the best source for this light with the interesting tube texture?

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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Nice mod.  I don’t know why I have a soft spot for these cheapo lights.  This one reminds me a bit internally of the “Police” lights I modded, but threaded head and nice texture on the body. 

Does the pill, reflector, lens come out the front of the light?

I’m kind of confused by the various links towards the beginning of the thread.  What is the best source for this light with the interesting tube texture?


The window (lens), plastic reflector and plastic pill with fiberglass star and driver can be pushed out the back of the head by pushing on the window. I use an AAA cell.
I have been getting them from Banggood, as that is the cheapest I have found them. The 5038s are from http://www.shenzhen-wholesale.com, which is an odd site that tells you how much the shipping will cost by emailing you after you place the order. BangGood has them cheaper also, though.
One that I was carrying on my keychain for a while shows slight traces of silver color on its edges. So far, I have been able to remove and replace the clips without scratching the anodizing.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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A split is not an important defect, because it is not in the main heat-flow direction.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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At 4.1 V charge, I read 2.9 A at the tail. Probably more without the multimeter leads.
I also am carrying a soft steel knife that needs sharpening frequently.
I am seeing what appears to be thermal droop when it is fully charged. This one is not direct copper.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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BLightSam wrote:
Don’t Banggood and Paypal send confirmation emails?

Checking my history with them, Banggood sometimes sends an email confirming an order and sometimes one notifying one of a shipment, or sometimes both or none. The orders history at the web site appears to be complete.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

ImA4Wheelr
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Thanks Fritz.  Gonna get me one from BG.

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The SS-5039 is listed with a picture on http://en.cnsmilingshark.com so it appears to be legitimate, except that the size listed is impossible with an AAA cell.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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Of 5 Nanjg 102s I received from Fasttech, 3 have the top flange of the inductor’s coil broken. These ferrite devices increase the field induced by the coil. The field goes through the center of the coil and wraps around to close the magnetic field lines. This core does not have ferrite around the full circle, but these flanges at the top and bottom spread the field out where it has to go through the air, which reduced the maximum field that passes through air and therefore reduced the field energy, which allows a stronger field, which induces more current.

Broken off pieces of ferrite can also be seen. They came in a soft envelope, which is probably the problem. I am hoping they will replace them and send them in ridged boxes in the future. I have 5 more on order that may arrive in similar condition.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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I finished the slim hybrid with one of the two good drivers, an XP-G2 R5 1A, a thin aluminum star and a slotted copper pill. It draws 1.8 A at the tail, with a Ni M-H charged to 1.3 V. This may hopefully correspond to the 0.55 A at the led that 102s are rated at, or a bit more.
I also finished a 5039 with the other good driver, similar star and led and a long enough pill that it needs only one spring. (I should see what I can do about the tail springs.)
I tried two (of the damaged) drivers in parallel. I read 2.8 V with one driver and 2.9 V with two, into an XP-G2. I suppose that the duty factor is less than unity and that those are some sort of averages. That is better than the two jewel thieves did, but, glancing at the electrical characteristics, it may not be worth the trouble of fitting two drivers into a 5039.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

ImA4Wheelr
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Sounds great.  You take any pics of that mod on the slim one?

I got some of those FT drivers, but I never inspected them.  Too late for me to check them out now though.  Thanks for the heads up. 

If you prefer Ni-MH like me, you may want to check out this driver in Post 10 that DenBarrettSAR endorsed. I got some, but haven't tried them out yet.  Probably will try on my SS's when they arrive.

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I think it is unlikely that I could get a 17 mm. driver to work cut down to 12.3 mm. When I worked with electronics before, the parts either had BNC connectors or wire leads.
I’ll try to take pictures again of the next mods. I have three still in their boxes. I am thinking of giving most of them away with Energizer (Eveready) lithium cells. I think one of my brothers can use a direct drive one.

I use a spot of duct tape to protect the led when it is already mounted when I file down the star. I clean it off with mineral spirits.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

hank
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> this driver in Post 10

Wait — it says 3 to 5 watts, out of a single AA cell — how?

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Fritz t. Cat wrote:

I think it is unlikely that I could get a 17 mm. driver to work cut down to 12.3 mm.

 

I wasn't thinking.  Forgot these are AAA lights.  Sorry for the confusion.

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The old 10 mm. star.

An original driver without either of its components.
The hand vise belonged to the same grandfather who taught me to solder.

The reflector and wires crowd each other.
The reflector is filed to fit.

Compared to a stock C8 on high.

The Noctigon star seems harder and yellower than the SinkPAD star.
I lost two XP-G2s in the process. They don’t seem as rugged as XM-L2s.
I ended up with an R5 1A, I think. I measured 1.8 A. There is less droop, so either the new star helps or else the conduction paths increase resistance with heat less. It has the same spring but the fit is different.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

ImA4Wheelr
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Sweet pill and reflector set up. Is the beam on the left the C8 beam?

It must be a special feeling to use tools that you know were used by your grandfather.

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My Deal Alert 5049s arrived. They are very similar to the 5039 and 5038 in shape and finish. The threads match.

The driver is different. No boost, but it appears to regulate the otherwise direct drive current I read the resistor as 51 ohms, yellow brown black gold. (Bad boys rape our young girls, but Violet gives willingly.) That is too high to be in line, so it must control the other thing which looks like a transistor.
I read 0.2 A with half charged Eneloops. Again, the board is cut down from a surplus or large production larger and more complicated one.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
Is the beam on the left the C8 beam?

Yes, if you look below, the lights are in the picture.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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Apparently the three terminal thing is a PNP NPN (p channel?) junction field effect transistor or an old fashioned junction transistor. The resistor is connected from + in to the gate or base. The emitter or whatever is also connected to + in. The collector or whatever (plate) goes to + out. – goes straight through to . -To first approximation, the output current is proportional to the current in the resistor, so it should act electrically like a resistor. I get from battery charge state and tail cap current:
2.66 V 0.22 A 12.0 Ohms
3.14 V 0.28 A 11.2 Ohms
3.21 V 0.31 A 11.5 Ohms
So it starts regulating somewhere around 3 V. The apparent slight increase in effective resistance between the last two might be explained by the drop in voltage of Advanced Lithiums under load.
The obvious mod seems to be a lower value resistor and Lithium primary cells, if the transistor can take it. Or if one wants long run time, it is good as is.
0.22 A at 2.66 V is close to the chart for an XM-L2, so the led has a nice low forward voltage.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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