I can't agree on either the portability of the light or the price. Its longer than a UF 501/502B and almost 50% more expensive than one of those with a handpicked drop-in inside it. I could add also that it is obviously less flexible than a P60 host.
Even better! I love neutral white lights! I really wish these manufacturers would start putting pocket clips on these lights, that's all they need to be perfect.
HA is like SF L2p which is $25 by itself and claimed IPX8, not 501/502 quality, far better heatsinking than any drop-in ($16 for 3 mode, not even NW). It's same length as 502, but no enlarged head size.
You can see the black plastic insulation ring. It should have covered the solderings of the positive & negative
to prevent from electirc short. The OP reflector is just on the LED and the inner o-ring is bulging out from
the lens when tightening the head. Therefore LED is not centered to the reflector.
The metal tailcap switch is too tight to push and there is rubber bootcap inside.
Because of that method, the body length is too long and uncomfortable to use the switch.
I don't know why that kind of switching method is used.
The anodizing on the body is good and beam tint is quite good. it's not WW but NW.
I've had it bookmarked for a while but was curious how hard it's driven and the Shadow lights aren't heavily tested yet. Although the TC6 seems to get praise for build quality. They just aren't driven that hard.
From the site: LD21 -- Current Regulation--support 2xCR123A
1.4A on Hi>700mA on Mid>100mA on Lo
I wonder if that "current regulation" means it actually uses a linear driver? 1.4A on high seems like plenty for a small light. My Z1X gets way too hot way too fast at 2.5A on high.
I know.. I guess I'm just looking for a pocket rocket that blasts on high just for short bursts. For my uses I can actually take advantage of over driven emitters without just being a show off light. But then I just barely know what I'm talking about. I'm still getting my feet wet
Wow.. I never realized it was driven that hard! It's actually been a light I've considered for a while now but I always end up turning down the Yezl products because many of them don't seem to get favorable reviews for build quality.
But yeah, that's about what I'm looking for in pretty much any XM-L. For me it might as well be driven to its max and 3.5a is pretty close to where it starts leveling off, based on reports compiled by Match. It seems 2.8a would be the most efficient max since that's where it begins requiring more amps per lumen.
I was exactly in a sort of detailed discussion with Match and his scientific testing does indicate levelling off at 3A, some mods done by others do indicate otherwise by both photos as well as lux meters. Lets not take those crazy mods with a full copper block and sleeve down the whole tube, this is a simple enough one : http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?312241-Loongsun-LX-9012-XM-L-Monster-thrower-(now-with-lux-readings) This is a 2-cell Made in China production light, so the voltage is 8 volts or so, there still would be voltage drop in the DMM affecting accuracy, but i mean lets take it as it is, relatively speaking for both lux as well current. The lux meter does not even have to be precise, just need to show the difference.
I had played with dry-ice cooling at a time just for fun (I probably got close to 4000 emitter lumens from 3 XM-L even with a production light and just normal thermal adhesive on MBPCB), but well of course that does not really fit into the picture in reality. But yes, my testing shows that with enough cooling and if possibile elimination of the MBPCB, more juice can be milked past 3A and the levelling off just pushed upwards the current graph.