It is direct drive like the now obsolete/out of production east-092, but with an easily reflashed controller. So depending on what firmware you give it, it'll work in either clicky switch lights or momentary electronic switch lights. The number & level of modes and the PWM frequency all depends on which firmware you use.
The FET (basically just like a relay, but with no moving parts) has been chosen to give the lowest possible resistance, so with a hot INR/IMR cell you'll see something like 6.5-7 amps to a single XML2, or 11-12A to a triple from a single cell.
Interesting… Thank you for the explanation. Would I need something like what Tido (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/744 ) has to program the firmware?
One question that I am interested in is the momentary switch. How do I use these? They are rated .5A and do not stay on after I press on them. Does the FET turn on and off every time there is an electrical connection or something? These switches are SO tiny, versatile, and come in METAL! O:
The momentary switch only grounds one tiny pin on the MCU, it doesn't carry any current. The firmware in the MCU monitors that pin for button presses and then follows its instructions on what it should do. Power & ground are always connected at all times, the MCU turns the FET on or off (pr pulsed at a very fast rate to give the lower modes). When the FET is off, no current flows.
MRsDNF - it does sure look the same. Hope the heat and airflow are the same though.. Guess this is kind of a risk though because there's no specs to speak on these things, besides the wattage I suppose, and the 300W rating does match mine.
Mine is stickered with: Heat Blow Tool, 300W 120v/60hz. Model: HG-100, Made in Taiwan
But it doesn't have the official description that yours has: BADA-BING, BADA-BOOM, so yours must be better .
What would be a good size nozzle outlet to make for it as its quite large the way it is? There probably is marital problems OF but me being the guy will be the last to know.
Probably same as a Nanjg - if the MCU can take it - is it a total of 6V fully charged? If so, on the borderline for the MCU - might need the zener mod. I would think a FET DD or 7135 driver would have the same issues? Dunno details, but I believe the LED will take what voltage it needs from the cell - for example using a 4.2v charged cell is too high for the LED, but it still works fine, but there must a high voltage limit for the LED... Not sure off hand - probably on the CREE spec sheets.
At 7amps a full eneloop AA sags to ~1.1V (HKJ's results), that is 4.4V for four in series. At 7amps a xml2 on copper needs 4V, so with no resistances the current will be more than 7 amps. But there will be resistance, especially with cells in series, so you might just get away with it and have a very nice DD- light :-)
But I don't know what voltage the mcu gets for a brief moment at startup, might be the full 5.4V, and still should survive that.
Thanks Tom E and djozz. I should have thought to look through HKJ's work for eneloop voltage charts.
Yeah, it might be better if I reserve 4AA to a multi-emitter application. It's just too hard for me to not try to take all the resistance I can out of a light. Even if it needs some. Some type of OCDitus, I guess.
The MCU was getting a fairly steady 6 volts before the capacitor revision and still survived, 5.6v no-load won't be a problem. The LED is another matter.
Springs and a switch add more resistance than you would think. No need to intentionally add resistance, just don't go overboard trying to eliminate it. You could also use one of the crappier FETs left over from other discarded drivers, 20-30 milliohms in the FET would give a reasonable amount of limiting.
CC Could you weigh in on a similar subject here in my RGB driver thread (post 34 if using different page settings)? By using different FET’s could I get away without limit resistors at all? To me that would be an ideal solution cause of space, the 14-pin PIC controller is larger than the tiny84 so I need to do some magic or something.
Ignoring the lower vf and just trying to deliver it less current but without changing the settings
I’ve modified a few Nanjg’s with FET’s, & reflashed without a problem, but today I built my first BLF17DD board from scratch. First scratch-built board, & first time using hot air reflow & solder paste. I’m happy with how it all went together - very neat with the solder paste & hot air - makes it pretty easy
I got a few kits from RMM - it’s the Rev2 board, & I’ve changed the CAP location from B+ to GND & bridged the R3 pads.
Problem; Works fine on high / turbo, but on low it will work for around 5 seconds, then start to pulse at around 2Hz.
On Medium modes, it will also work for a few seconds, then will start pulsing & also changing modes randomly.
I’ve tried several different firmwares, & tried fast & phase-correct PWM, but it makes no difference.
In addition to this mode memory does not work in any of the firmwares I tried.
Anyone come across this type of behavior before? I’m thinking that the ATtiny may be faulty.
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