Mod: My latest retarded super bright light ( <15000 LUMEN of NW tint mixed light and 200+ kcd)

What do you think the current would be without the stacked FET?

All I know is that I have the FET driver in my hand that’s going to replace the one in my 2xMTG + 2xXML light that I cooked the MCU in. I’m going to take the FET off the old one and stack it on top of the FET in the new one. It can’t hurt, and I’m curious see if the current goes up.

Comfy or someone that are into these FETs or more into electronics can probably tell.

As long as the FET can handle 30A continuous, Im guessing barely any difference. There is not much resistance in them. As mentioned, I was not sure what its rated for. I prefer to have some "headroom", and hopefully I got it.

Halving the resistance in the FET by adding another one in parallel doesn't gain much, since the resistance is so low already. If they were crappy 30 milliohm DTU FETs you would see a big gain, but the better the FET is the less you get by adding more. Diminishing returns approaching the zero bound or whatever...

What's the battery layout? 2S3P?

Its simple. Ive seen what you can do. You do way more tricky stuff than that.

Extra wires just go from the springs to one copper plate. Then from another copper plate to the screws that attaches to the body. Once the tailcap is properly tightened the two copper plates gets connected.

I could have used 18awg wire instead of two 22 awg as an example. But after it was supposed to be finished I decided to add more.

Its nice to not have to worry about the resistance in the tail.

Yupp.

What are the FETs rated for? (continous amp)

Okay. I think I’ve got it. All those wires lake it look confusing. Things are always easier to figure out when you’ve got the actual part in your hand. Actually, I may experiment with that on another light.

http://75.65.123.78/pdf/SUD70N02-03P-E3_72246.pdf

A lot. I don't know enough to be able to translate those specs given at different voltages than what we use, but I don't think a single FET would be in any danger.

Wow, just wow! I think the double FET is a good idea, though maybe not much of a difference in output as comfy says. I've been wanting to try that. Maybe do the cap trick of batt+ to ground as comfy found, if you didn't already. Having the 6 cells is a big plus for this host, as opposed to the J20, though the J20 has that massive head.

My 7k+ lumens J18's also throw incredible, not as much as this, but still amaz'n for a flooder.

I find these FETs in the drill packs at the recycle bins. Check the amp draw and the low drain-source resistance

Total gate charge = 160nC, unable to be driven directly by an attiny13. Gate charge has to be around 40 or less. This is the problem with ultra-high performance FETs, if they can do huge current at low resistance, they can't be driven directly without adding other parts, like high-power gate drivers. FETs that are easy to drive have lower performance. There isn't anything out there that has a better balance between those two things than the Vishay 70N02, not by a long shot.

The gate load presented by two FETs in parallel could also be an issue with RaceR86's driver not working correctly (though there are other things to check first, reverting to a single FET for testing wouldn't be a bad idea).

Who was that that had a pic of a driver, East-092 style, that had a stack of FET's a mile high? Dunno if it actually worked -- I just recall that picture in my head. Think it was someone who really knew their stuff in EE though...

Holy MOG! You crazy off the charts Norseman. I guess it's true what they say about intelligence and insanity.

P.S. How are the emitter's wired? It appears 2S6P.

Oh my gosh!!! That light is sick! I am so jealous now………………………

Wow that is insane.
I have pmed with other guys here about these light and a similiar mod….but a direct drive with XML2s…wow

I think a second FET is good at this currents because even if resistance is low the power loss is huge at huge currents and 30A is mega high current, you should solder GND wire also direct on the FET because I wouldn’t trust the copper paths with this currents…I also think that one FET without heatsink can smoke away…
The power over a resistor rise with current power 2……P=I^2*R
So 0.0033×30^2=3W loss in one FET…if you use two 0.75W loss per FET.

The 70N02 is from the specs definitely a very good one, sadly it’s not available anymore for cheap

I have no fettin idea what you guys are talking about here on several fronts. The electrics for a start but it works and amazingly well at that. The giggling school girl also lost me. Mine only grumps.

? Tell me more. Howto and why?

Ive just been using first post of your BLF17 thread as reference for how to put these drivers together.

Yeah. Back when I did my 7K+ (never measured, just assumed) tint mixed 9 XM-L light I had to rely on 3x Sony 50A cells in order to get the amps high.

Would only get up towards 7500mAh.

With this light. I can use 6x NCR18650BD (3200mAh) and get close to 19200mAh and still have insane performance.

No doubt these flooder throws. Although, It has to be said for those (not you Tom E) who just read the numbers and are not familiar with such lights. Its not a thrower compared to a thrower. Meaning, due to all the flood light, lots of moisture, dust, etc thats in the air gets lit up. The ground in front of you also gets lit up a lot. These things makes it harder to see light far into the distance. No doubt, its extremely impressive. But its still a flooder, just with very good range.

My 9 XM-L light was included in this beamshot comparison for those who want to get an idea of how the beam on a hot rodded multi emitter lights with some de-domed emitters look.

Yupp! :)

Three of my ground wires from the contact board goes directly to the FET (Two 22awg and one 18awg). Then I thought, why not add another one (22 awg) that goes to the driver board as well since its so easy to solder there. I don't like soldering too many thick wires to the FETs, I end up soldering wire on top of wire. Do you think its bad to have one of those wires to the board and not directly on the FET?

I also consider all those copper wires to the FETs to work as a "heatsink" to some extend.

Stunning job. Congrats!

Right on the money both of you! I love it.