BLF17DD Info Thread - Reference

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RaceR86
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Thanks. Got the stuff to program, just have not tried it yet. Ill get to it since I now have a reason to do some tweaks.

What have changed since you now can use fast PWM? And why isn't Richard selling these with fast PWM?

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

Tom E
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Ohhh - I'm still using phase correct but these ol ears can't hear it.. Hhmm - gonna have to change. Forgot details how to convert and not sure of side effects - still can use low PWM value of 1?

comfychair
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Previously DrJones was the only one doing FW for momentary drivers, and the 'sleep' method he uses means the LEDs do not turn off completely in the 0% mode (that's the only way to turn off a momentary driver since the +/- remains connected at all times). Jonny does something different in his code (which of course I don't understand) that fully puts the MCU to sleep after the button is released. None of that matters or has ever affected the clicky drivers.

Tom E
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OP updated with latest BLF17DD board link and parts list. Added links and post #'s to get ref info from the gi-normous OSHPark thread.

ImA4Wheelr
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Awesome info and tutorial.  Thank you Tom E.

MRsDNF
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I've been shopping at our local Spotlight and come home with this. Before I open it do you guys think this will do the job. Apart from the color it appears identical to the one Tom E linked to earlier.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

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likevvii
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Still very new to DIY drivers and seems like it is really cool! Can someone tell me a little about this driver’s specs? RMM’s site does not really provide enough info, like how many amps, input voltage, etc. I really want to build one because it is called BLF! Thanks for your help!

comfychair
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It is direct drive like the now obsolete/out of production east-092, but with an easily reflashed controller. So depending on what firmware you give it, it'll work in either clicky switch lights or momentary electronic switch lights. The number & level of modes and the PWM frequency all depends on which firmware you use.

The FET (basically just like a relay, but with no moving parts) has been chosen to give the lowest possible resistance, so with a hot INR/IMR cell you'll see something like 6.5-7 amps to a single XML2, or 11-12A to a triple from a single cell.

likevvii
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Interesting… Thank you for the explanation. Would I need something like what Tido (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/799 ) has to program the firmware?

One question that I am interested in is the momentary switch. How do I use these? They are rated .5A and do not stay on after I press on them. Does the FET turn on and off every time there is an electrical connection or something? These switches are SO tiny, versatile, and come in METAL! O:

comfychair
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The momentary switch only grounds one tiny pin on the MCU, it doesn't carry any current. The firmware in the MCU monitors that pin for button presses and then follows its instructions on what it should do. Power & ground are always connected at all times, the MCU turns the FET on or off (pr pulsed at a very fast rate to give the lower modes). When the FET is off, no current flows.

Tom E
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MRsDNF - it does sure look the same. Hope the heat and airflow are the same though.. Guess this is kind of a risk though because there's no specs to speak on these things, besides the wattage I suppose, and the 300W rating does match mine.

Mine is stickered with: Heat Blow Tool, 300W 120v/60hz. Model: HG-100, Made in Taiwan

But it doesn't have the official description that yours has: BADA-BING, BADA-BOOM, so yours must be better Smile.

Ouchyfoot
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MRsDNF wrote:

I’ve been shopping at our local Spotlight and come home with this. Before I open it do you guys think this will do the job. Apart from the color it appears identical to the one Tom E linked to earlier.


When I first saw this post there was no description and I thought MRsDNF was having marital problems.
MRsDNF
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What would be a good size nozzle outlet to make for it as its quite large the way it is? There probably is marital problems OF but me being the guy will be the last to know.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Tom E
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Dunno  if it can take a nozzle - I use it as is.

DB Custom
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MRsDNF likes attachments on his toys…

ImA4Wheelr
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Has anyone tried these DD FET based drivers using 4S AA Eneloops and a single xml emitter? 

Wondering if the voltage would sag enough for an emitter on copper to survive. 

Tom E
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Has anyone tried these DD FET based drivers using 4S AA Eneloops and a single xml emitter? 

Wondering if the voltage would sag enough for an emitter on copper to survive. 

Probably same as a Nanjg - if the MCU can take it - is it a total of 6V fully charged? If so, on the borderline for the MCU - might need the zener mod. I would think a FET DD or 7135 driver would have the same issues? Dunno details, but I believe the LED will take what voltage it needs from the cell - for example using a 4.2v charged cell is too high for the LED, but it still works fine, but there must a high voltage limit for the LED... Not sure off hand - probably on the CREE spec sheets.

djozz
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Has anyone tried these DD FET based drivers using 4S AA Eneloops and a single xml emitter? 

Wondering if the voltage would sag enough for an emitter on copper to survive. 

At 7amps a full eneloop AA sags to ~1.1V (HKJ's results), that is 4.4V for four in series. At 7amps a xml2 on copper needs 4V, so with no resistances the current will be more than 7 amps. But there will be resistance, especially with cells in series, so you might just get away with it and have a very nice DD- light Smile

But I don't know what voltage the mcu gets for a brief moment at startup, might be the full 5.4V, and still should survive that. 

ImA4Wheelr
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Thanks Tom E and djozz. I should have thought to look through HKJ's work for eneloop voltage charts.

Yeah, it might be better if I reserve 4AA to a multi-emitter application.  It's just too hard for me to not try to take all the resistance I can out of a light.  Even if it needs some.  Some type of OCDitus, I guess.

Tom E
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Back to topic - I ordered qty 6 of these BLF17DD V1.0 boards today, so couple of weeks I'll post detailed pics.

comfychair
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The MCU was getting a fairly steady 6 volts before the capacitor revision and still survived, 5.6v no-load won't be a problem. The LED is another matter.

Springs and a switch add more resistance than you would think. No need to intentionally add resistance, just don't go overboard trying to eliminate it. You could also use one of the crappier FETs left over from other discarded drivers, 20-30 milliohms in the FET would give a reasonable amount of limiting.

Rufusbduck
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The link for the newest BLF 17DD has been added to the Oshpark thread. It has the revised location for C1 and pads for an off time cap.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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comfychair wrote:

The MCU was getting a fairly steady 6 volts before the capacitor revision and still survived, 5.6v no-load won’t be a problem. The LED is another matter.

Springs and a switch add more resistance than you would think. No need to intentionally add resistance, just don’t go overboard trying to eliminate it. You could also use one of the crappier FETs left over from other discarded drivers, 20-30 milliohms in the FET would give a reasonable amount of limiting .

CC Could you weigh in on a similar subject here in my RGB driver thread (post 34 if using different page settings)? By using different FET’s could I get away without limit resistors at all? To me that would be an ideal solution cause of space, the 14-pin PIC controller is larger than the tiny84 so I need to do some magic or something.
Ignoring the lower vf and just trying to deliver it less current but without changing the settings

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comfychair
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Not really on the same scale, you'll need a resistor of several ohms (haven't done the math, just as a guess) to get the Vf down, not milliohms.

FmC
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I’ve modified a few Nanjg’s with FET’s, & reflashed without a problem, but today I built my first BLF17DD board from scratch. First scratch-built board, & first time using hot air reflow & solder paste. I’m happy with how it all went together – very neat with the solder paste & hot air – makes it pretty easy Smile I got a few kits from RMM – it’s the Rev2 board, & I’ve changed the CAP location from B+ to GND & bridged the R3 pads.

Problem; Works fine on high / turbo, but on low it will work for around 5 seconds, then start to pulse at around 2Hz.

On Medium modes, it will also work for a few seconds, then will start pulsing & also changing modes randomly.

I’ve tried several different firmwares, & tried fast & phase-correct PWM, but it makes no difference.

In addition to this mode memory does not work in any of the firmwares I tried.

Anyone come across this type of behavior before? I’m thinking that the ATtiny may be faulty.

Thanks.

comfychair
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Can you show exactly where you put the capacitor?

See if it acts better when the diode is jumpered. If you're testing it out in the open, grab across the diode with tweezers to short it.

More than that I can't say, I don't know which exact components RMM sends with these drivers, I have only worked with the parts in the Digikey lists.

FmC
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The CAP is as your picture in the ohs park thread post 1045

I’ll try the tweezers on the diode in the morning – I’ve packed it in for tonight.

All of the parts in the kit from Richard are the same values as I’m seeing in your pictures.

comfychair
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Please post pictures when you get back to it. At one time, there were so many different versions and revisions with no coherent naming scheme that it's possible the person who placed the Oshpark order is the only one who knows which one it is.

Make sure the capacitor is properly soldered. I had one that constantly gave the low voltage warning blinks & step-down no matter what, everything looked perfect, but after re-soldering the R1/R2 resistors it was cured.

wight
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FmC wrote:
The CAP is as your picture in the ohs park thread post 1045

I’ll try the tweezers on the diode in the morning – I’ve packed it in for tonight.

All of the parts in the kit from Richard are the same values as I’m seeing in your pictures.

Comfychair was just cross posting the info in that thread. This is the main thread for that testing project: FETs and gate resistors – scope images. [Post #1045 ~= Post #55 there.

Just to be clear, the post you referred to contains two configurations (marked V1 and V2 in red text in the upper right corner). Which one you are you using?

Regardless of what you have now I’d try the other config! V1->V2 or V2->V1. They aren’t really versions, just different configurations.

I assume that you are using 1s, not 2s or more (zener setup). If you are using >1 battery in series you should let us know. What current level are you achieving on your highest level? Higher currents should create a larger field resulting in a larger spike as the FET turns off. This may require more capacitance between B+ and GND.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

FmC
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Wight, I’m using the v2 config., single cell. I know it’s all still work in progress…that ‘v2’ config seemed to be the latest solution from what I read.

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