Do the move the emitter lead to the other pad thing - that should give you a good bump in current…
Sounds like he did 
yes, it removes the resistor bridge (thus making it full current out of the IC), plus soldering in 22ga wire vs the thin wire that was there didn’t hurt either 
Has anyone done any extensive / definitive testing on focusing this flashlight?
I removed the stock centering ring and replaced it with one from IOS. This left the guts loose, so I cut a paperboard ring for now (like from a cereal box) and placed that between the lens and reflector. One ring was enough to keep things from rattling, but I wouldn’t say that it made things tight. I’d do a thicker ring next time. I’m using a 20mm noctigon with 24AWG wire and had to move the wire to the outside of the solder pads to keep the reflector from shorting them. The hotspot is now much wider, but I’m not sure that it isn’t in focus.
Hopefully later I’ll take a little time with a light meter and see where focus is.
I haven't pulled the bezel and lens of mine but it looks like there is two o'rings in this area. One above and one below the lens. Could be wrong here though. If I had the same problem you had I was going to look here at adding a thicker oring. I did a bit of testing with different thickness isolators and took measurements along the way in my modded thread on this light. Good luck.
Still waiting. PP case filed.
Ordered 9 Jun, arrived today 23 Jul.
Stock current on high was a measly 1.7A. After spring braiding, changing to 20AWG wires and rewiring the LED+, the current went up to….2.2A? I guess my newly purchased meter is really shot… 
I am using a freshly-charged KK ICR by the way.
Make sure you’re using thick/short leads. That’s typically the key. DMM quality doesn’t have much to do with it.
got my f13 yesterday, have not had a chance to tear it down yet.
I'm not sure if its been reported but the last five I received on inspection had XML-2 leds. They also had XML-2 on the battery tube in place of the XML-T6. On a very quick test light output is similar so they must be a very low bin. When I have time I will look into it further.
Mine arrived a couple days ago. It also has an XM-L2 emitter, but the battery tube still says XM-L T6.
Hi .
I am willing to give 3A to my F13( with the OUT +1 trick ) but i cant have access to the driver and i would like some help ( im a noob ) .
Do i have to push hard 2 or 1 ? Is it ok to push it with a hammer+a screwdriver or a hammer+a spanner wrench, or should i buy something like this : https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002694/1200101-rewin-snap-ring-plier-with-4-changeable-tips to open it ? ( i have read someone did it with it )
I recommend using sturdy tweezers to turn the ring.
Thanx for the information, i will try .
Don’t forget to wrap the tweezer handle with a thick cloth. Will make it easier to turn.
Mine was a pain to get the driver ring loose, I ended having to hook a flat tip screwdriver into one of the holes on the ring and really hork down on trying to spin it, once it popped loose it is easy to take in and out
Fairly easy with needle-nose pliers from Harbor Freight. I bought a bunch when they were on sale for $1.29.
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-3-4-quarter-inch-needle-nose-pliers-40696.html
Naturally you have to pick through the bin at the store, some are ground finer than others, some are rounder some are squarer.
No horking required. 
but…but…but I like to hork 
But you wouldn't enjoy it as much if it was required.
What is “hork”?