Here is a picture of the boards, the dots are supposed to correspond to the dots on the top of the XML. Is the positive and the negative reversed on the mask?
Right now I’m trying to figure out the DMM buzzer…
The dot on XML2 is on the negative side, on XML it's on the positive side. Bond wires are reversed also.
I don't see a dot on the Oshpark board?
Here is a picture of them dots…
I might be slower on my responses shortly…
My buddy just stopped by with some GOOD beer. The DMM showed good continuity for each of the pads.
Did the DMM show continuity between + and - without the LEDs populated?
I just downloaded the files and took a close look in GerbV. Everything looks OK to me on the board. It seems to me that you have polarity/orientation correct.
I’d re-install the LEDs and test them using diode test, which should make them glow.
I always look at the bond leads going to the emitter, XM-L they point at the negative side, on the XM-L2 they point towards the positive side
Some may recall the old saying that God looks after fools and drunks… With that in mind it occurred to me that perhaps I was using only half of my true potential. So after some home made pesto pizza with artichoke hearts, some Pliny the Elder and lively conversation I returned to the curious MCPCB and I used a new one. Bingo, I see spots! Seriously I still see spots, but it/ they work. The MCPCB is soaking in gas right now. Well it’s two stroke mixture as that was what was available. So the light that comes out should be well lubricated.
Also, I think I might solder better tipsy. Or tomorrow I will see my work and be appalled, swearing off drinking and soldering forever. Not unlike the great calculus event of 1996 when I swore I would never drink and derive again!
First you must integrate Luke.
BTW, guys- thanks for the helpful input. It’s been a tough week. Perhaps it sounds silly but it means a lot to me that I can cry for help here and get quick useful answers from people I respect and enjoy hearing from.
ROFLMFAO! COS b
…that right there is FU KNEE!
Ok great success followed by a Chernobyl like moment.
Ingredients were gathered.
Used a dd17 harvested from an S6 of Dales (soon to be replaced in the S6)
Pretty…
One that is different after cooking off one of the original 3 replaced with what was on hand.
It got hot, really hot! Started like 4000 Kelvin then started to drop toward 6500-7000 and get dimmer. Melted the optic onto 2 of the emitters and popped the ground joint. It was way more hot to the touch than my MTG2 in an S3. I don’t think that aluminum spacer was up to the task, it also put out a lot of power. Might be too small even with copper. I guess this is what I get for being cheap. I didn’t do the XPL’s that Dale and I had conspired on as RMM had some cheap used XML emitters of uncertain bin. I need better tools and to clean my bench as well.
I’m thinking of replacing this reflow station with something a little more precise…
Sweet jebus that got hot! What base is that copper wrapped around? What optic is that? What host eas it in? A host and a tightly wrapped pill is definitely needed to help shed heat.
Direct driving 3 XMLs will do that to pretty much everything...
To use Scaru’s triple for high current I think it pretty much has to be soldered to a copper slug. He had trouble with keeping it centered doing this but a few different methods might include tapping a center hole in the slug for a temporary screw to hold the pcb in place, then after soldering down the pcb remove the screw and ream the hole for your wires. Alternatively, you could wire a strip of soda can around the pcb and sink to keep it from wandering while you reflow the pcb to the sink. I’ve used both and I think the second is better if you don’t have a method for perfectly centering the tapped hole such as a lathe.
That’s a cool idea. It was a homemade P60 in an L2T, the other parts all came from RMM and Dale. RMM sells the aluminum slug for use in the S6 and S2 and it fit the copper pipe after slimming it down a couple thousandths of an inch. It was bright for a moment.
Is that a XM-L TIR or a XP-G TIR and do you have a link please 
I still think bonding that 20mm copper round stamping from etsy will help eliminate heat ALOT…but driving them on a PCB and not direct copper heat will just overheat them way too much unless you don’t run more than say 2A per emitter max
And I too ran it with the BLF17DD. As I recall it got more like 3+A each and got very hot very fast, but then, I had it in a chopped AA MiniMag with a 14500. I used U2 1A’s from lights I had swapped emitters on, and of course I de-domed em to get em to fit under the Carclo optics. The tint was too green, so that triple got swapped to the new XP-L’s on a Noctigon.
These drivers are wicked little beasties!
WarHawks SK68 link is back up.