I haven’t seen the part, I’m tired of RAR files and don’t have anything that opens them installed. So I’m not sure what needs to be done. It should be as simple as adding the library to your Eagle and then adding the part…
A single port chip that’s 1/2 the cost of a dual port chip… waste of board space?
I still think your 2-port board can be smashed down to around $3.50 with no loss of functionality and similar mounting provisions.
Have you guys tried Dirty PCBs ? You have to wait for shipping from China but $14 for ten 5cm x 5cm boards is dirt cheap. I tried to upload an OSHPark design to their site but they must need a different format. Complains about a lack of a drill file.
It was on the brd I downloaded but not in my .lbr directory, I wanted to copy from that stacked one that ones mine, so I could replace the single one on my board with a double stacked one…this way the board could like wight said it could be less than 1/2 the size it is now
Wait time from OSHPark is bad enough, and they are made here CONUS…I just like the purple board goodness
However it might help to get the SRK boards made in 2mm vs 1.6mm (the OSHPark boards are thinner than stock boards and sometimes lead to issues with continuity between the driver and battery tube [aw crap…they charge and extra $20 for the 2.0mm upgrade…fooey])
I wonder if those triple and 7*XML Scaru boards would do better on .6mm thick boards heat wise…hmmm
I wonder how many BLF15.17DD would fit on a 5x5cm panelized board…hmmm
Thanks for the heads up! I will try them. I’ll continue to need OSHPark for my rapid prototyping needs, regardless of how many filthy little PCBs I get shipped from China.
Also, I figure they’ll probably have similar routing restrictions to other things like Seeed: you can’t break-route panelize w/in your 5x5cm boards. If that’s the case it’s a horrible deal for small round PCBs and a good deal for larger ones or ones that you can cut apart yourself (rectangular boards).
I’m sitting here looking at an Anker USB 3.0 7-Port Hub with Charging Ports (5V / 2.1A and 5V / 1.5A). This is $30 at Amazon. What were you looking to charge with yours with that high current bad boy?
I have dual port 12V, 2 amp cig chargers for the truck for iPhones, SLR 1amp and for Xtar 500ma.
I was looking for a way to have the device auto range and draw max amps and use a cheapo ATX powersupply, make it scalable, and say hey “I did that”
Pretty much you can take a cheap’o whatever, and solder a 100ohm resistor (or even short) the D+ and D- and it will automatically pull up to 1A, but if it can pull 2A (10 watts) why not have it do it automatically
Beautiful thing…with an ATX powersupply, 5vdc is the rail is where the most “available” current is at, but it also has a 12vdc rail, and a 3.3vdc rail, the 12vdc rail I can plug into my Nitecore I4 and possibly reduce the heat generated internally due to the transformer changing AC to DC to run the charge portion, and HKJ even reviewed a NiCD/NiMH charger that uses 3vdc wall wart…well if I had one of those I could then tie into that rail…it allows a throw away power supply to be used for quite a few other things…and they usually do have very good regulation (as long as you have a load resistor on the rails [in most cases])
It all boils down to…I’m a tinkerer, and I just wanted to see if I could do it and fiddle futz around a bit (this is my hobby after all )
I think I might order me a set of the trapezoidal ones and see if it works out…use the charge doctor to see what kind of current different devices can pull
With the cost of the board down, I should be able to build a single dual unit for pretty cheap…
OK…render of the gerbers with updates, I added drills to allow for spacers to stack the boards if wanted (use motherboard standoffs, drill holes directly into the housing of the powersupply, stack 3 boards high, voila), moved the LED between the USB ports to cut down on the glare (we all know those little LED’s can be pretty bright)