Group Buy for the GearBest Ultrafire F13 - Closed?

Fairly easy with needle-nose pliers from Harbor Freight. I bought a bunch when they were on sale for $1.29.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-3-4-quarter-inch-needle-nose-pliers-40696.html

Naturally you have to pick through the bin at the store, some are ground finer than others, some are rounder some are squarer.

No horking required.

but…but…but I like to hork :slight_smile:

But you wouldn't enjoy it as much if it was required.

What is “hork”?

He followed me home. Can I keep him?

Only if you can afford to keep him. Hork's have a very expensive cost associated with them.

this is true, Here at the School of Vet Medicine, Horks will get there own special pin and have to be kept away from other animals as they are very aggresive. If you are lucky enough to find an water bound Hork and if you decide to keep him/her, they will need alot of attention as they are very social animals.

Don’t ask :stuck_out_tongue:

It just unscrews. You’ll need something to put into the dimples. Some people use tweezers, but circlip pliers work just as well.

The retaining ring on these F13’s is glued or torqued very tight, so undoing it first time is difficult, but just needs some elbow grease.

aka “the hork” :smiley:

I got my nose plier and finnaly managed open it and to move the + to the other + , now its better but not better than my Convoy c8 at stock,
do you think the F13, with a 3A driver ( + 0.380mah*2 ) can handle 3.8A without problems ( of course with a good 26650 ) ?

It can handle 3.8A no problem.

Thanx for the fast reply .
So its ok for 3.8A what about 4.1A or 4.5A ? and should i add some thermal paste behind the led ?

Is the GB still active?

No, and the code do not work anymore :frowning:

Just got mine. Ordered 7/8. Took over 5 weeks.

I’d put as thin a layer of thermal goo (Arctic ceramic, as I had it handy) on the black anodized flat part, then placed my replacement 20mm Nichia star there and turned it back and forth a bunch of times, thinking I was spreading the goop evenly. Soldered the wires, made sure the reflector pressed down around the emitter when tight, used it a while, then the color went wonky — the dome and phosphor fell off the LED.

Oops. So I took it out.

Well, lookit that.

The black anodized “plane” is a shallow dish shape,not flat — it still had goop covering it evenly, but the contact with the star was only around the edges. Looking at the back of the star, there was no contact anywhere except around the edges.

Put in a different emitter (Noctigon this time) using more thermal paste.

But I guess I need to get out some fine sandpaper, or something, to make the emitter’s back match the flashlight’s front.

Maybe take a look at pflexpro’s thread, “Flattning a P60 pill”. I haven’t tried that technique myself, but it seems like a winner to me. ImA4Wheelr seems to be suggesting in that thread that aluminum should be annealed before hammering. I don’t know much about it it, but it seems to me that regular old 6061 is probably soft enough to let you get away with it without annealing.