Group Buy for the GearBest Ultrafire F13 - Closed?

What is “hork”?

He followed me home. Can I keep him?

Only if you can afford to keep him. Hork's have a very expensive cost associated with them.

this is true, Here at the School of Vet Medicine, Horks will get there own special pin and have to be kept away from other animals as they are very aggresive. If you are lucky enough to find an water bound Hork and if you decide to keep him/her, they will need alot of attention as they are very social animals.

Don’t ask :stuck_out_tongue:

It just unscrews. You’ll need something to put into the dimples. Some people use tweezers, but circlip pliers work just as well.

The retaining ring on these F13’s is glued or torqued very tight, so undoing it first time is difficult, but just needs some elbow grease.

aka “the hork” :smiley:

I got my nose plier and finnaly managed open it and to move the + to the other + , now its better but not better than my Convoy c8 at stock,
do you think the F13, with a 3A driver ( + 0.380mah*2 ) can handle 3.8A without problems ( of course with a good 26650 ) ?

It can handle 3.8A no problem.

Thanx for the fast reply .
So its ok for 3.8A what about 4.1A or 4.5A ? and should i add some thermal paste behind the led ?

Is the GB still active?

No, and the code do not work anymore :frowning:

Just got mine. Ordered 7/8. Took over 5 weeks.

I’d put as thin a layer of thermal goo (Arctic ceramic, as I had it handy) on the black anodized flat part, then placed my replacement 20mm Nichia star there and turned it back and forth a bunch of times, thinking I was spreading the goop evenly. Soldered the wires, made sure the reflector pressed down around the emitter when tight, used it a while, then the color went wonky — the dome and phosphor fell off the LED.

Oops. So I took it out.

Well, lookit that.

The black anodized “plane” is a shallow dish shape,not flat — it still had goop covering it evenly, but the contact with the star was only around the edges. Looking at the back of the star, there was no contact anywhere except around the edges.

Put in a different emitter (Noctigon this time) using more thermal paste.

But I guess I need to get out some fine sandpaper, or something, to make the emitter’s back match the flashlight’s front.

Maybe take a look at pflexpro’s thread, “Flattning a P60 pill”. I haven’t tried that technique myself, but it seems like a winner to me. ImA4Wheelr seems to be suggesting in that thread that aluminum should be annealed before hammering. I don’t know much about it it, but it seems to me that regular old 6061 is probably soft enough to let you get away with it without annealing.

Although annealing would make the aluminum softer and less likely to crack, I don't think it is a viable option in most lights. The temp needed to anneal is near the melting point. So it would change the anodized finish color and would also soften threads and such.

Haha, I see. I guess it’d better work w/out the annealing then eh?

It seems like manufacturing a little set of anvils which are convex, concave, have the star pflexpro showed, etc would be neat. I should get motivated and give it a try (although only with simple ones for now).

Or putting the star on a drill with some grit under it and using it as the grinder, making the star and the surface on which it mounts grind to matching curved shapes.

Or, heck with it. Maybe it’s just this one flashlight I got that has this problem?

Anyone else checked whether there’s a flat plane on which to mount the LED, and good contact, in their lights?

I’ve got a second one to check here.