USB 2 Port Hub DCP Enumerator / Charge Adapter V2

Stacked dual usb ports is the way to go imo.
Have to keep the cost down or else you could just buy a high amp usb charger with intelligent ports. TPS2513 or similar.
$26 Anker 40W 5-Port USB Charger with PowerIQ​
$16 Anker 25W 5-Port with PowerIQ
$12 iXCC Dual USB 4.2 Amp (20 Watt) Travel Charger - SMART ChargeWise

I agree. I can’t help wanting to smash the PCB outline as far in as I can get it though ;-).

Even a 2-port stack with all through-hole components and using all Chinese eBay/Aliexpress parts seems like it ends up awfully expensive (and awfully bulky once you strap that ATX PSU onto it).

OTOH you know a good-brand ATX PSU has clean 5v as long as you put a big (wasteful!) load on the 12v to avoid cross-loading (unless it’s a new PSU w/ 5v regulated from 12v… why are you wasting an expensive PSU on charging USB devices though?). And you know what chips you put on the charging PCB. So squeaky clean charging is maybe worth something…

Nice! I put those eurostyle blocks on mine for tying in the powersupply leads, your design could probably benefit from a smaller form factor maybe even header pins

pretty interesting setup though for sure

I didn’t realize you were using those terminal blocks when I started (figured it was just a pair of holes ;-)), but really now that I think about it I see no reason not to install them the way I’ve got it laid out. The legs are more than long enough for them to be over top of a little pin or four.

Alternatively you could throw all the low-profile SMD components on the bottom and increase the spacing between the USB ports slightly and increase the length of the board a little maybe. With a single terminal block you could then fit it between the USB ports. You’d also be able to fit 6-32 motherboard screws and standoffs rather than M3 screws.

Actually you might be able to get the overall board size lower that way… hmm…

Interesting.

10 PORT USB CHARGER 60W 1.1A x 10 or 2.4A x 5

I’m checking the datasheet and wiring now. (Sunday morning ;)) I think there’s only one error easily fixable for a prototype. You’ve got the decoupling cap inline for the little TP2513’s Vin. That won’t work, the chip won’t get any 5v! (caps block DC…) Take another look at the datasheet. See how the decoupling cap just connects between the Vin trace and GND but Vin also connects to 5v?

Yup…gonna have to do some revision…the cap doesn’t have a passthru to the + plane of the board…doh, can easily scrape the edge of the mask right below the C1 silkscreen to raw copper and solder a jumper

Might even rotate the chip like you did on your board wight…to cut down on the trace length

I am really digging the look of the board with the large polygon pour though, will be fixing…

wight, do you or anyone else know how to remove the white silk screening of the component on the copper pads under the tStop layer? I want it to print the outline of the IC but not print over the copper, I can gently scrape it, but would rather not have to

Oshpark fab does not print any silkscreen over bare copper.

Um…yes they do (at least they did on this run (was the 5 day expedite test)

It’s a crappy pic…but the white outline and little feet of the 6 pin IC is printed over the top of the pads, heck they even printed the outline of the USB housing over the bare copper of the VIA, everything else is spot on

I even scraped one to ensure…sure enough raw copper under the white paint

wight, I found a better way, bridge the capacitor, solder the cap from the end pad to the ground pin on the USB A pin

I might just trash these and get another set after I do the fixes

They screwed those up. I’ve seen them do that before. If you contact them they will remake them.

There were errors on those boards anyway…my mistake, won’t get them to remake them

Besides I believe I fixed my screwup

Even shaved a little bit off, and removed the more or less useless LED and resistor
2 layer board of 0.87x1.5 inches (22x38mm). $6.50 for three

Wight, and/or others…wanna check it out please

Render
Top

Bottom

A little 3D

Files

Oh and Halo… I sent them OSHPark an email…this production was under the Super Swift Service “test” they might have skipped that step in the rush…but thanks for the heads up on the producers removing the mask, Thanks!

That looks lovely!

Why do away with the SMD status LED?

Probably to save space. He may as well put the status LED on the bottom though I think, no reason to leave it off entirely.

You should turn on thermals for the polygon.

How?
Checking

um…duh…click the thermal outline, properties…actually had to turn off thermals for the pads to be solid instead of the broken pattern

Thanks Halo…

Do you guys want the “status led”?

More or less going to be on all the time the board has 5vdc applied to it

Files updated with thermals off (no render, same as the above, just now instead of having to draw a trace over the thermal cutout area and having to name it, it removes the auto gap created by the thermal parameter)

With your board there shouldn’t be any need to turn thermals off. They will look like this.

Eagle_Polygons#Thermals

You should have thermals on (and not covered).

Halo… is correct. Note that I’ve got thermals turned on and nothing “covered” in all the pictures I posted on page 2 (you may need to zoom in to see the thermals).

Make sure you’ve got your polygon named correctly (same net as the stuff you want hooked up to).

It’s weird, I unchecked the thermals on my Eagle (they were on originally, they are off now on the new design) and the spaces went away on the redraw with ratsnest, with the thermals on, the little gaps were there

I had used a “cheat” method and used a large wire and named it the name of the polygon pour to cover up the thermals…removed them too

Reviewing the link you provided

ok, unchecking = thermals off…thanks guys!!!

do you guys think the “status” LED’s would be useful…I can add them back…I really don’t need em, but if you want em I will put em back