I wanted to do runtime tests for the Armytek Tiara A1 using different NiMH cells. I ended up using my camera’s time lapse setting to capture readings from the meter— it saved a ton of time.
To many LED’s, to many useless modes, make a NW version and a CW version and stop screwing around with useless crap.
What retard thought making a red and blue flashing light that will get you arrested in most places in the world if you use it in public was a good sales idea.
Just as long as you don’t have to scroll through, can’t easily accidentally access them, and are not forced to use those extra modes then I’m perfectly fine with as many modes/mode groups you can fit in a light.
Yes, I also feel like that is a shame. But JohnnyMac that also did a review on this one didn`t have any leaking.. so it might be a little inconsistency. Or I didnt screw down all the threads enough.. who knows.
I honestly don`t know.
I`ve tried taking the light apart prior to the photo shoot.. so it might have caused the leaking.. but still it`s kinda strange, because I don`t feel like I didn`t screw it down properly.
anyway.. I didn`t lube the threads,as they were lubed as far as I remember.
next time I should double check to screw down everything tightly before I do another waterproof test.
(same with the Ultrafire M51 of which I am writing the review now)
After my trip last month, I noticed the screen has gotten some trouble.....
anybody else has had this happen as well?
There is something wrong at the bottom of the screen. When you press the screen it leaves some rings/marks that disappear slowly.. almost like when you push on an LCD computer/tv screen (not touch screen).