Ryan - you mean the mag ring? I tried with strap wrench's - No Go. She is sure glued tight shut. So much for no glue -- I've gotten that threaded joint open on TN31's and it takes quite an effort, usually. They use a pretty good LockTite.
I would like to open for two reasons:
Yup, the mode selector ring. I remember noticing two bumps which looked like the ends of two screws looking inside the driver compartment.
I’m not sure if the screws are from the MCPCB, as the screws that hold it down are fairly short. I wonder if this indicates the threads are fastened by the two screws instead of loctite.
Yes - those screw ends are definitely from the MCPCB. It's all really the same design going on between the K40, TN31's, etc.
Ah I see. So it’s just loctite holding the threads together with the MCPCB is removed?
I wish mine would come, so I could tear it completely down and take photos of everything... Sooner or later, maybe...
I’m going to wait until all the smoke clears before I touch mine.
The threaded connection is to remove the head from the body - the MCPCB is totally separate. Like this - should be the same as this TN31 I worked on:
maybe 2 weeks waiting OL 
mine too on china this time
is this light interesting with one XPG2? for modding.
Thanks for the pics Tom, I also had a TN31 that opened right there because there was no glue. It was indeed quite easy to mod.
I’ve done some basic current and voltage measurements of the stock driver.
Level 1:
Level 2:
Level 3:
Level 4:
Level 5:
Level 6: It peaked at 5.2A but drops to 5.0A in 5 seconds and keeps going down.
Open circuit voltage, same at all modes except stand-by and strobe (Not enough to drive an MT-G2):
^ Excellent info and pics. Thank you ryansoh3 :)
EDIT: We gotta figure out if there are any way to adjust the voltage and also why the current drops like that. Was you emitter in the test well heat sinked?
Glad to help. 
Figuring out how to control the max output voltage would be great for MT-G2 LED’s. I’ve contacted Supbeam many times about selling TN30 (3x XM-L2) boards, but they wouldn’t budge. Maybe a 50 unit GB would work?
The current drop is probably due to the driver itself overheating and individual components not being able to handle the heat. My guess is that as the sense resistors heat up, their resistance increases and the output current decreases, which is probably why Supbeam put a blob of thermal glue between the driver cap and the resistors.
I was using 1N4007 diodes I use for general purpose testing. I had three of them in series, which emulates the forward voltage of the XM-L2 LED.
I haven't seen a single picture of the TN30 driver. You seem to be the only person that has worked on them. If you have one out of a light, it would be great to see a front and back picture of it.
Sure, I’ll try to get some shots tomorrow.
Meanwhile, here’s a shot of the front from this thread: [Mod] ThruNite TN-31, How to increase the current to the led
When the only funny part is where somebody says "that's not funny", it's not a joke, it's trolling.
I was about to update my 1st reply with some measurements but I decided not to because it would bother you. I couldn’t delete the post either because it would mess up the table of contents so I decided to abandon it. No offense intended, I was just playing around.
So put the updates in the first post, not the first reply, and nothing gets messed up. What's the fascination with putting the updates in the first reply, anyway? How is that any less effective than putting it in the OP? If you want everybody alerted, make a new post at the end of the thread where the new stuff is supposed to go anyway, saying "updated info in OP" or whatever, then a round of notifications go out, people see the new post at the end, and then go back and look at the OP. It works just fine like that on every other forum on the planet.
Thanks again ryansoh3. I guess I have seen images of that side of the driver. Even in this thread at Post 154. Just didn't realize it. Looks exactly the same as far as I can tell.
Look forward to seeing the other side. Maybe it will help us with this driver. Thank you again.
Here are some shots of the driver. I couldn’t find my lens extension tube, so the quality isn’t too great. :~
They are very high res, so click on the link for fullscreen+ sizes.
Sweet. Thank you very much ryansoh3.
So that driver drives 3 emitters in series in the TN30?