FS: Copper Pill for Courui

I’m wondering if yet more copper could be squeezed in on the top side, filling the area where the base of the reflector sits? This might serve a dual purpose of giving more mass as well as more head contact to spread the heat out further, ultimately getting heat into the big aluminum pill as well where yet more mass would be available.

It isn’t easy getting rid of the heat from an MT-G2 at nearly 15A and over 4400 lumens.

It has also occurred to me that 2 battery tubes might be connected in order to utilize higher capacity 18650 cells in series…

Dale, we gotta see this.

Gazing into my crystal ball I catch a glimpse of an anodized 2 x 18650 tube by Bucket with Dbcstm on a note inside.

Dale, I think I would just make a completely new center section for that kind of power. A copper core pressed into the finned and anodized outer layer.

What is this super power light you speak of? Pics?

I don’t have a noctigon yet to mount the led properly but I found out the pill fits over the heatsink. Of course, the head doesn’t screw right the way on but anyway.

With the driver stripped and a BLF17DD Z piggy backed in, 6 Efest 18350’s will do close to 15A to an MT-G2 for 4481 lumens. That big ol chunk of copper you have there will make it doable. I had to scale mine down to 6.23A for 3030 lumens because I don’t have that chunk of copper. I DID put an ounce of Silver behind the shelf though. :slight_smile:

I do see your point though about re-creating the pill with copper pressed in. That would be the most efficient.

Could you machine a connecting ring in order to tie two battery tubes together? It might be difficult to align the 3 bays but could be glued once that position is found. Then 18650’s could be used for even greater power delivery and better run time. The corresponding ends of the tubes would have to be milled to remove the anodizing to help ensure ground carrying through for the power level looked at here. Might be a pretty neat trick to get the 2 tubes to thread together snug, in full contact for that ground, with the 3 cell bays in perfect alignment.

Anodizing the connecting ring red or orange might be cool to signify this is a dangerously powerful handheld light. lol (Or Purple :slight_smile: )

Using 6 18350’s at 700mAh is the equivalent of a 2100mAh cell at 8.4V. Pulling 14+A from a 2100mAh supply doesn’t give much run time. Pulling similar amperage from a 7500mAh supply would be quite the different story! Multiple 3400mAh cells could be used to tone down the power output while simultaneously providing considerably more capacity and run time.

Think this is possible? Worthy?

I think I know what you are asking. I think a threaded sleeve could be made to hold two battery tubes together. It might just be easier to make a 2nd battery tube the correct length. When I'm done playing with Damascus, my next project is to make a two cell body for my HD2010. I bought some ano coloring that I hope matches the stock color. Two 26650's with the 1175b driver should be sweet.

Should be able to push that 2010 to it’s limits. Beware the possibility of frying emitters. I’ve killed 7 or 8, Richard has done in more than 10.

I currently have the HX1175b1 giving an XP-G2 de-domed around 5.6A and making 580Kcd. It’s only doing around 940 lumens. :slight_smile:

I don’t know the machining aspects, so don’t know if a collar tying 2 tubes together would be any easier to achieve than boring 3 holes in a 2-in-series tube.

Have fun with the Damascus, really looking forward to seeing that one come alive! :wink:

Wonder how that’s possible?

Reckon the Securitying light simply looks at itself and says “I don’t have a big mass, but screw it, I’m dancing anyway!”?

My bad, I’ll stop.

Could it be the alloy of aluminum or how thick they machine their pieces and how tight their tolerances are?

How about the added mass of the reflector itself? I realize there is usually plastic centering rings but still…?

So the only thing left is it something to do with SRK’s being a multi emitter. Either the pill/heatsink is not being point loaded (uniformally heated/saturated) or the heat from the perimeter led’s is travelling less distance to be dissipated. Maybe a combination. My 2 cents :ghost:

Given your response I think I must be close to learning something H)

How much is not much?

The stock setup isn't bad for a moderate amount of heat to be removed. That thin plate still has a good bit of cross sectional area to it. All of the heat flows radially out to the head. It's not going to do for Dale levels of power though.

:smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

I was asking how much sag is "not much".

Comfy, this light has a lot of surface area to dissipate heat. The head is huge. The body is fat. The thin pill is not as bad as it seems since it has such a large diameter as well. The surface area of the pill at it's circumference isn't too shabby. So, I am not surprised that you have not noticed "a lot" of sag due to heat. Though, I guess my question is what do you consider a lot? >10%, >20% >30%? When I designed the Bomber, one of my goals was to minimize sag due to heat. I was very happy when it turned out to be <10% after running for 5 minutes at about 80 watts.

A couple of things that you wrote bother me. First, I'm all about the laws of physics. I'm not sure why you think otherwise. There is nothing about using copper heat sinks that have greater mass, thermal conductivity and surface area than the ones they replace that defy the laws of physics. I wrote a fairly detailed post about this some time ago. I'll try to find it and link it. Second, you are right in that sometimes what we do isn't necessary. Most engineering is the science of designing things that work good enough for their purpose plus some safety factor. However, I liken what we do here to hotrodding. Striving to get that extra few percent of output at the margin is freakin cool. For that matter, putting 7 emitters into a flashlight isn't necessary. Most modding that's done here isn't necessary, yet you seem to have a distaste for my particular type of unnecessary.

Anyway, "Good Enough" is relative to each person here. 7 amps through a XM-L2 on the stock pill may work ok for some. Start putting more current to the emitter on that pill and diminishing returns start happening at some point. More amps will not yield more light. Just look at the aluminum star vs Sinkpad copper star graphs. Same goes for pills. Amp for amp, you get more light with copper. You get more light with more area of the pill in contact with the outside of the light too.