Yezl Y3 - a picture breakdown

The theoretical equivalent of the mathematical formulation represented in my last post is purely conjecture based on a triple heaping serving of steaming hot mud.

(Edit: This thread has been edited to remove descriptive text representative of my stupid mathematical formula) Sorry if anyone found it offensive.

I’ve been reading too many of ToyKeeper’s posts. :stuck_out_tongue:

Oops! Not to imply any doubt as to the integrity of ToyKeeper’s posts, merely insinuating that I am too far gone mentally to even begin to comprehend the multi-level depths of her quoted theory and mathematical genius. (crawling back under my rock now)

Was wondering where that science was coming from... Smile Pure speculation, but if a MT-G2 at 15A is less efficient than 5 XM-L2's running at the same power (ie watts), doesn't that mean more power gets converted to heat? So, maybe even worse? Think you got a room heater there, forget hand warmer.

Winner in isle 5!

Thanks Tom E. I appreciate the effort. Love the work bench cleanliness. Are the threads as others pointed out on the battery tubes the same on your samples?

Pardon the profanity in this thread. What was pointed out with the threads? I just looked at the two pieces and I wouldn't call them square - they are maybe too fine for that, but the overall quality is pretty good. They feel great when threading, but of course I got Nyogel on them.

It was reported and confirmed by another member here that the Y3 battery tubes screw onto the HD2010 battery tube.

For flattening aluminium inside a cavity I flatten the head of a bold that is about half the diameter of the pill cavity (I have a block of cast iron that I made really flat that I use as a base under sandpaper, I use it for flattening led-boards too), wrap pieces of sandpaper around that and start sanding the pill surface with that.

I take mine to my lab for lapping. A little bacon grease on it and he’s really happy! :slight_smile:

thanks for the review

take a piece of broom handle or timber that fits in the pill + –3 cm
Take the center and drill a hole.
Take a drill of + –0.5 mm thicker and press it in the middle of the wood.

Now you can turn your drill machiene while the pill turned around to work for more flatter surface. sandpaper the edge at.
2nd way) turn the pill over and tap with a hammer and a piece spindle diameter of + –2 cm in the middle of the pill.
so that the center plane with the back side.

TomE: you have now one AR lens from flashlightlens.com ? for the y3

see you different on brightness?

penumbra, that makes me say “Well DUH!” I knew that! :wink:

I’ve seen machinists go to great lengths to set up the machining of a part that takes minutes to do, even making components to facilitate this. I DO know that preparation is key to success. But I, like so many others, always look for the quick and easy way out. Not afraid to work, just afraid to use my brain apparently.

Thanks for that reminder.

problem with this methods is that you must have a little “technical mechanik ” feeling … :nerd_face:

Tom, you might try a variation of something I’ve done in the past. penumbra made me think of this and it should be simple.

I have used the double sided 3M emblem tape for cars, the stuff they put the Ford oval or Chevy bowtie on the side or tailgate with. It’s a thin foamy grey tape, sticky on both sides. A dowel or aluminum rod with this on the end, chucked into a drill or drill press, will enable you to turn that pill section like it’s on a lathe. You can then sand, rotary, file, scrape, however to get the turning pill flat on the surface. It’s most tricky to set the part gently on the adhesive and spin it slowly to test center, reposition til it’s turning true then press it firmly onto the tape. The stuff is quite strong, I’ve turned 7/8” copper bar stock this way to make a driver pocket in the end. This is also how I turn down a copper star. Turn it relatively slowly with my cordless drill and use a cut off wheel in the rotary tool to trim the star down. Takes a few minutes and works like a charm.

A piece of wooden dowel, like 1 5/16” clothes rod, can be shaped to fit inside the pill on a table saw, setting the saw blade for height so the round rod will be close enough to sand lightly then press fit in, once that end is done, the other end can be likewise shaped to fit into the chuck of the drill or table saw. I prefer the drill for it’s variable speed. Have no idea why I didn’t think of this before!

Thanks, Tom E. I've been thinking I may eventually attempt modding the Y3, but the E-switch part is intimidating. You make it look easy.

I'm big on chucking stuff up to a hand drill too. I keep a variety of PVC couplings, pipe, and Phillip screwdrivers around just for that. But I have had bad luck trying to lap that way. Unlike a lathe where you have a fixed blade that moves across the surface that is turning at different speeds (Center material is moving past the blade slow, outer material much faster), the free hand sandpaper tends to dig in deeper on the outside of the pill landing. I always get a hump (and I don't mean the good kind) that way. So I prefer to manually lap my pills.

I'm sure I just don't know how to do it right. Hoping someone knows what I'm doing wrong.

blind in texas >)

Ohh - I ordered the single cell Y3's, so no extra tubes. Didn't try it yet - won't do me any good without ordering extras though.

Thanks for all the tips on working the pill top! Ended up though doing it same way as I always do, sand paper strip over the back end of a metal chisel - found it to be smooth and flat. I worked it extra with 150 GRIT more on the outside than the center, but don't think it did much - got a pic I'll post.

The OP has been expanded, adding tailcap assemble pics and details on modding.