Well, I could sit here is say ohhh, it’s China junk, it won’t work on AAA.
But maybe it would have had I not fired it up on a 10440 and it looked good but as expected, got hot quick.
Before a AAA was tried, an Efest at around 4.04 volts was inserted and nothing??
Well, the top looks real close in appearance to the bottom and when you are in hurry, you can figure out the rest.
Must not have reverse polarity protection or maybe it did and that is what burnt?
Head got hot just that quick, pulled the batt and the flashlight tube she smells real burnt.
Anyway, thanks to the for showing all the parts and directions on dis assembly I was able to discern that the spring got hot and compressed some. Pulled that back out a bit and reassembled.
It seems to pull just over 1 amp on the Efest 10440 which is now down to 3.94, but will not run on a AAA alkaline or lithium.
So, I fried or hampered something on the driver apparently.
I only planned on using the higher voltage cells anyway, so live and learn.
Very nice light however, took exactly 1 month to get here.
Thanks,
Keith
I had my order in the mail box when I got home last night, 2 cw and 2 ww. The ww’s had no branding on them while the cool whites did. For $6 each I am really impressed to tell you the truth. I really, really like the warm white ones alot, enough so that I think I will be placing another order for some stocking stuffers/gifting ideas. This is now my new at work pocket light.
Guys with non-working lights- in a few weeks when my GAW lights get here I’ll have 9 stock drivers, if you guys need I can supply you replacements then. (I’ll also have a couple spare tiniest10’s left I could sell you if you want modes/adjustable output / 10440 only)
Received my 2 x CW and 2 x NW a few days ago. Took about 15 days to the UK.
very impressed at the obscenely low price. The perfect finish. The tail cap join is impossible to see unless you know exactly where to look.
Head to head with a 9 led cheapie also on alkalines it’s slightly brighter on ceiling bounce and blows the 9 led cheapie away on throw and has nicer tint. Should have bought all CW’s, something like these little lights you just want as bright as possible.
Rcv'd my two CW pieces today. Stock amps was about 0.98A on a charged TrustFire 10440 @4.10v, lumens was 153 @start and 126 @30 secs, dropped pretty good -- there was no grease or epoxy whatsoever under the MCPCB. Couldn't wait too long - here's my start:
These 10 mm SinkPAD's are great to work with - easy to sand/file down. I did a similar mod to my Tank007 E09. I trimmed the outer edge with a dremel sanding drum. Used 150 sand paper to take down the height from 1.55 mm to ~1.15 mm - sand paper on the bench, rubbing the SinkPAD over it by hand, and used a small round file to make the wire indents deeper. The stock MCPCB is about 1.0 mm thick. Since the pill is brass, I'll just trim out the wire holes to get rid of the edge bumps, sand it down lightly, them I'll probably reflow the SinkPAD to the pill. I'd like to keep the SinkPAD a little thicker than the stock one to help on the heat. Have a few more things to do - little more sanding of the edge to fit easy in, angle file the edges along the wire pads to ensure no grounding, ensure I got enough space for the wire (maybe 24 AWG I'll try), then the biggest problem:
decide on an emitter, choices: Nichia, XP-G2 warm/neutral, XP-G2 1A, or the new XP-G2 S2 2B
Richard's XP-G2 Q2 7C4 at 90+ CRI looks pretty awesome, available bare.
On 10440's, these little guys get hot really fast, even on 0.80A, and maybe a not-so-great pill mount. Think I'll just leave the stock driver for now, and use thermal/electrical conductive grease around the pill.
Ohhh - be careful with the tailcap off - the edges on the body tube are super sharp. I cut up my hand pretty good when trying to open up the bezel end (stupid me...). I put the tailcap back on, then broke out the $4 rubber coated gloves - then it came off real easy...
Since I got 10 mm XML SinkPAD's, for the 2nd one I think I'll file out the hole in the reflector - it has a flat surface at the bottom, so I think an XM-L2 or XP-L would work pretty good.
Got 4 today, kind of neutral on these, there OK but nothing special or pretty nice but not that nice, if you know what I mean. These 4 will do, no reorder. The cw looks pretty good but the nw is very yellow.
Edit: After playing with them a little more, I like them better, buy one.
I received 2 more today of the 6 I ordered. So I'm up up to 3 NW received. All have no logo and look and work great. I have 3 CW's on the way. Betting they have a logo give the above. I may try to polish them.
I finished my SF-348 mod from post #434. Don't have all views, but here's some:
Ok - think this mod is almost useless on a good Efest IMR 10440. Here's specifics:
XP-G2 S2 2C (from FT) on a 10 mm SinkPAD sanded down
high qual thermal grease under the SinkPAD
replaced wires with 24 AWG
NO-OX-ID around the pill, Nyogel on the threads
Light
Cell
Volts
Amps
Lumens (@start-@30s)
Stock SF-348
Primary Lithium
1.8v
0.50A
47-46
XP-G2/SinkPAD
Primary Lithium
1.8v
1.60A
82-72
Stock SF-348
Efest IMR10440 V1
4.14v
1.17A
160-138
XP-G2/SinkPAD
Efest IMR10440 V1
4.14v
2.70A
415-260**
Mod'ed light with the Efest goes into some sort of over-temp mode, because it starts blinking output in like 20 secs, and the top end of the light is extremely hot. Looks great though for the first 10 secs . So, what's going on? Seems like the driver is in DD mode, but not sure if it's something I caused by the mod or not.
Ohh - my amps/lumens measurements are very close to what's listed in the FAQ section on the product page listing on GB (gearbest.com SF-348). Wonder where they got those #'s from...
. So, what's going on? Seems like the driver is in DD mode, but not sure if it's something I caused by the mod or not.