Interesting bout the TK61 - never saw that sort of effect before, but pretty much all my measured tests were at 4-5 meters. The biggest lights I tested were the TN31's and K40.
comfy - those beam pics are nice! I think I sort of understand it - looking at the concentration. The XinTD C8 though looks a lot like the S1100, as far as where the brightest part of the beam is, closely around the center spot?
Well, I won't have much of anything to add to the mod thread. My mod will end up being mostly cosmetic. I will be sticking with the stock led/star and the stock driver. I replaced two of the three resistors, for more output, but that's all except for heavier wire and resistance mods to the springs. I also did add copper under the star and I shaved down the locating ring for the led, till it's paper thin. That's about it, but since my mulitmeter is acting bad and so is my lux meter, I won't be doing any testing of anything other than seeing if it turns on and changes modes.
Copper Heat Sink
Finished?? Nope, I ruined the battery holder
, so I will have to go buy one. Either that or give it away with no holder and let someone else get one. I still don't see why it fried, but it did.
Anyhow, I did get a measurement of 104,500 lux at one meter out of it using 4 18650 in series, with heavy wires, on the bench and it never dropped from there, for the two minutes I was checking.
That's all I can do. I have a couple meters coming and I will rig one up for amps, with some 12ga wire and see what I get for amps. I replaced two of the R120 resistors with one R075 and one R100.
Very nice looking light there O-L.
You should be looking at less than 6A (peak) then.
Did you read my post earlier about damaging/overheating the battery holder due to the resistor mod?
What exactly happened to yours?
I wonder if anyone else have resistors modded theirs and done a full test on reliability (something that could lead to broken battery holder/carrier).
Yes, I read your posts. I figured somewhere around 6 amps, but without a meter, it's guessing only. The holder fried when I put the batteries in it, with no load on it. It got hot in my hand and started smoking. The batteries weren't even the least bit warm when I pulled them out. I checked them and none had dropped any voltage to speak of. I have no clue. I imagine it was me, but I don't know what. I didn't do anything except disassemble and reassemble, but that was enough. One edge of the holder right over one battery was where it fried. It burned up one of the components and that chip melted off the board and melted the solder off the spring there.. Didn't take only a second to do it. Looks like the outer ring touched somehow, but alignment is correct.
That bad huh.. Thanks for reporting.
Maybe we should have a new list in OP. Who can fry or damage their battery holder the quickest?
Old-Lumens is in the lead with a second...
Ideally I need a minute and low voltage cells in order to do some damage. My light is still working fine with high voltage cells though. I think that puts me in 2nd place at the moment. :D
Seems like the integrated battery charger carriers are doing more harm than good. Hard core flashlight enthusiasts know better to charge batteries in their lights and the circuitry in the carriers are going poof.
Has this happened on any that haven’t been modified with power bumps?
Who would I be able to contact from Supbeam about getting a replacement battery carrier?
I’m considering only dedoming my K50 LED and call it good. Messing with the resistors seems risky and doesn’t give a lot of gain in actual throw. Vinh’s best result with K50 is 550kcd (1483m) and your result of simply dedoming the LED gives 420kcd (1296m). There is “only” a difference of 187 meters and I don’t want to take the risk for that.
Did you re-position the LED or reflector after you have dedomed it? Or simply put them back to exactly where they were?
Bella took care of me. Hopefully, still waiting.
Did you kill or damage yours? Resistor mod?
Have anyone modded their K50s and done a "full reliability check" without any issues with the battery carrier? Tom E? Anyone??
bibihang, all I did was remove the head (not as simple as it sounds) so I could get easier access to the emitter, then de-domed it hot right in the light. Put it back together and am very pleased with it. One could forego the laborious process of removing the head and do the cut on the dome down inside the head, not easy but certainly do-able. Then it would be only a matter of a few minutes and you’d have it de-domed and throwing this nice tight beam. 
I bought the one from OL. He wasn’t able to get a replacement carrier. What is Bella’s contact info if you don’t mind.
DBCstm, thank you for the information. Meaning that you didn’t fine-tune the focusing at all and still getting 420kcd, am I right?
Opened it, de-domed it in the light, put it back together. Baayum! Just like that.
That sounds good, thanks.
Now I need to figure out how to open the head. Don’t have a strap wrench and don’t know where to buy one lol.
I have 2 strap wrenches that are very big, heavy duty things…called “Boa Constrictor” I think they came from Amazon. They weren’t cheap, but they’re among the best of this kind of thing as I understand it. Even they had some issues and only persistence on my part got the job done.
You could, in theory, de-solder the star while down in the head and remove it, then use gasoline to de-dome it. When de-doming, with any process, it’s always a good idea to have spare emitters on stand-by for the inevitable “oh cra#!” 
Is the driver still modded? If you get a replacement carrier, what makes you think that the light will not kill another carrier once you put in a new one?
Contact info. I would try the e-mail in the middle.
Keep us updated. Would be a shame if Supbeam does not sell spare parts. If that is the case, I will have to think twice about buying lights from them.
Ill post this question again.
Have anyone modded their K50s and done a "full reliability check" without any issues with the battery carrier? Tom E? Anyone??
Is the driver still modded? If you get a replacement carrier, what makes you think that the light will not kill another carrier once you put in a new one?
If you read OL’s post on that subject, he didn’t even have the carrier in the light. He loaded batteries in it and it got hot and started smoking while it was in his hand. He doesn’t know why it fried.
I missed the part about that the carrier was outside the light. Should be a warranty issue then. Right?
Would be interesting to see a close up picture of the electronics in the broken carrier.