I see it you want to know the potential the ligh have to manage heat. :bigsmile: Usually in this type of zoomies the weak point is sliding point. I think is hard to get around this… and this light is no exception, but lets wait and see from photos.
A fixed focus type can have good thermal path.
Yeah, but I'm hoping for good news. The portion of the tube that has fins and slides into the head looks like a decent thickness. The pill looks great.
wondering what is in your head(mt-g2, hehe)
Yes agree other parts looks nice. Now that i am thinking about it can be in the uft20 style which is not bad, if i remember right is metal to metal contact in threads form, best will be without ano.
What is the iner diameter of the lens ?
downlinx wrote:
wondering what is in your head(mt-g2, hehe)
A bunch of hot air, I think. I really like Pulsar's idea in Post 29 for this light. But like you, may have to wait a bit to get this light.
got ya, i was contemplating the same thing, but might try the extra XP-L i have laying around.
downlinx wrote:
got ya, i was contemplating the same thing, but might try the extra XP-L i have laying around.
You know, that sounds like a good idea. The hot spot looks pretty tight. That would give a bigger hot spot and djozz showed that the xpl didn't lose lumins when dedomed (I think).
Ervin Anastasi wrote:
What is the iner diameter of the lens ?
Just repeating the question so it doesn't get lost. Would like to know that and what is the max diameter lens that can fit in the head.
you are correct, it shouldn’t loose much at all in way of lumens.
Lens size is 67mm and this is the max that will fit.
What lens are you considering.
The adjustment is all the way in for maximum intensity so the pill is almost to the large nut shape on the head. Should have plenty of heat absorption. The head screws onto the tube. Tube is threaded on both sides.
Pitcture of light adjusted for max throw. Pill is is tucked into bulk of head.
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Picture zoom out for flood. Pill is away from the bulk of head.
The tube is threaded on both sides. The head is only threaded for about 1/2 inch. When zoomed in the majority of the tube threads are below the head threads and don’t make contact. I imagine you could foil wrap those threads for heat transfer to the rest of the head.
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Too bad it doesn’t have a smooth shape and fine knurling.
Wonder if there is enough room to layer the inside with copper to help dissipate heat.
Thank you very much mholdenattorney, the teardown is very informative. 
As long as it is solid pill and having good numbers of threads as shown in the picture I wouldn’t worry too much about heat dissipation.
The lens, pill and focusing are all good, and the other interesting part is the driver. I think I’ve never seen a buck driver that small - at only 16mm. Do you mind to take pictures of the driver?
looks alot like a std c8/t20 pill….
mholdenattorney wrote:
What lens are you considering
Thank you for the report and pictures. If I follow you correctly, this zoomie has some decent heat sinking. I'm thinking about these 2 lens if the stock lens does not satisfy.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1606/10007641/1660906-jgf-dt63-63mm-optical-glass-plano-convex-lens
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1606/10002523/1583701-replacement-67mm-optical-borosilicate-plano
I have ordered the first one already because I have a light I could put it in. It looks similar in design to a 100 mm one I got from FT that gave me 800kcd with an dedomed xml2 at 7 amps. Obviously, it will deliver less throw all else being equal.
Thank you again and congrats on that light. Looks to have a lot of potential.
EDIT I'll report back on focal length and performance when I get the 63mm lens.
EDIT2: That second lens I linked to looks very similar to the stock lens in your pictures.
Driver is 16.6 - 17 mm. Any ideas for boosting? Probably a 17 mm buck driver.
Bad pics replaced below.
Can't make anything out in those pics. Ohaya has a thread about a 17mm buck driver. You may want to compare your driver to the one in that thread.
Maybe if you can provide the model number labelled on the driver and or better pics (does you camera have a "macro" mode). Being a buck driver, there is probably at least one voltage sense resistor. The resistor or resistors will have a pretty low resistance value (<1 ohm). So it or they will start with an "R" which is the equivalent of a decimal point. Lowering the resistance by adding more parallel resistors will increase current if the rest of the circuit has the capability to deliver more current.
Round hotspot on aspherical = not focused properly = pass!
I think I might push the magic button. Is there any reason not to get the single 18650 version? I wouldn’t want to put anything bigger than an xm-l2 in there.
The single 18650 version should be nice too, perhaps better than the T20, but has a much smaller lens than this one .
Nice pictures again, the heat path looks sufficient for a bit more than 3A at the emitter :-)