He just might be able to ship them to you. Worth a shotā¦
The brass rings in the driver and clicky ends are holding their ground. Even using steel that is around 5mm wide, itās bending the steel whilst I try to remove the rings. So, for now, if I want to see any progress, itāll simply be an MT-G2 emitter swap. I am forgoing any sort of braiding (could be done in the clicky end with a fine soldering tipā¦) or resistor modding to my Yezl Y3.
Now I just need another lens (mine came broken) so that I can try and replicate saabblasterās REV-captor light.
Donāt know why else theyād be that stubborn.
Tom, those driverās I mentioned to you both via PM earlier are on their way to me along with all components to build 3 of them!
Everyone else, man do we have something AWESOME in the works for these lights!
On the edge of my seat for this oneā¦.
an advancedā¦Thank You!
I wish mine was in already 
I am now dookiecheap! gdamit (bholeflashlight) :bigsmile:
Oh yeah rod. I ruined a good pair of snap ring pliers already, they are too soft it just bends the tips. Itās the perfect tool if you could find one made out of hardened steel. Snap rings arenāt that strong though. The needle nose pliers worked. You might try a watch wrench, drill the 3 holes. 3 holes is better than 2, or so Iāve heard.
A little teaser info:
Its a single channel [white only], FET based DD driver, looks almost identical to a 17dd but its PIC based and the UI is extremely advancedā¦
Yezl Y3 plus an MT-G2 is a really good outdoor light IMHO. The hotspot is this massive round thing, with good spill. I would say, this combo is perfect for those who are looking at lighting all those that are in front of them within 100 metres. Unfortunately I think I may have damaged to dome a little bit. The hotspot produces a āhotterā (ie. more yellow and roundāish shape) spot within itself. This doesnāt seem evident when using outside, only white wall hunting or indoor use. But seriously, who would use this indoors?
I am kind of glad that I didnāt do the resistor mod. To me, itās in the ābright enoughā category. I would probably say, around the 1800 lumens area. A quick and dirty ceiling bounce test with my eyes is saying that itās brighter than an XM-L2 U2 1A de-domed driven at around 5A. The fact that it is also running at 2.4A when on high, should mean much longer run-times on my Keeppower 4500mAh cells. Also, the heatsinking is fine. Even at the lower amps, this thing heats up quickly at 2.4A (used Arctic Silver 5 and a slightly thicker o-ring in the lens to put pressure on the LED). Last but not least, I also ordered an UCLp AR Acrylic Lens from flashlightlens.com. It works well with it.
The end result was a light that I think I should be coming back to more often as the heft of it feels just right and balanced, along with producing a useful floody beam, without the need of a multi-emitter setup.
Thanks for the feedback Rod. Sounds like a real winner.
Cereal_killer wrote:
A little teaser info:
Its a single channel [white only], FET based DD driver, looks almost identical to a 17dd but its PIC based and the UI is extremely advancedā¦
This sounds quite interesting. Looking forward to this.
where do you guys buy your mt-g2?
MT-G2's from MtnElectronics or IOS
Normally Mountain Electronics or INTL-Outdoor.
Thanks guys
Iām wanting to get the new one for this Y3, the Q0, but so far Iām not finding it in stock. I think Richard has some inbound, they just havenāt made it yet.
he is secretly hording them, mwuaaaha
Advanced UI, might be over my head. 
Ahh, thought there was a new one around. Looks like the new SupBeam/AceBeam's use the Q0 bin MT-G2's, maybe other manufacturers as well.
I have only two - one installed in a host from IOS no longer sold, and the other one spare - no clue what bin they are though. Anyone know the history? Were the first ones available the M0 and P0 bins that are still available now?
The M0 comes in around 4000K, the P0 is 5000K, the new Q0 is supposed to still be 5000k, but a brighter tint bin.