Supbeam K50 V2 Mod Thread

Has this happened on any that haven’t been modified with power bumps?

Who would I be able to contact from Supbeam about getting a replacement battery carrier?

I’m considering only dedoming my K50 LED and call it good. Messing with the resistors seems risky and doesn’t give a lot of gain in actual throw. Vinh’s best result with K50 is 550kcd (1483m) and your result of simply dedoming the LED gives 420kcd (1296m). There is “only” a difference of 187 meters and I don’t want to take the risk for that.

Did you re-position the LED or reflector after you have dedomed it? Or simply put them back to exactly where they were?

Bella took care of me. Hopefully, still waiting.

Did you kill or damage yours? Resistor mod?

Have anyone modded their K50s and done a "full reliability check" without any issues with the battery carrier? Tom E? Anyone??

bibihang, all I did was remove the head (not as simple as it sounds) so I could get easier access to the emitter, then de-domed it hot right in the light. Put it back together and am very pleased with it. One could forego the laborious process of removing the head and do the cut on the dome down inside the head, not easy but certainly do-able. Then it would be only a matter of a few minutes and you’d have it de-domed and throwing this nice tight beam. :slight_smile:

I bought the one from OL. He wasn’t able to get a replacement carrier. What is Bella’s contact info if you don’t mind.

DBCstm, thank you for the information. Meaning that you didn’t fine-tune the focusing at all and still getting 420kcd, am I right?

Opened it, de-domed it in the light, put it back together. Baayum! Just like that.

That sounds good, thanks. :slight_smile:

Now I need to figure out how to open the head. Don’t have a strap wrench and don’t know where to buy one lol.

I have 2 strap wrenches that are very big, heavy duty things…called “Boa Constrictor” I think they came from Amazon. They weren’t cheap, but they’re among the best of this kind of thing as I understand it. Even they had some issues and only persistence on my part got the job done.

You could, in theory, de-solder the star while down in the head and remove it, then use gasoline to de-dome it. When de-doming, with any process, it’s always a good idea to have spare emitters on stand-by for the inevitable “oh cra#!” :wink:

Is the driver still modded? If you get a replacement carrier, what makes you think that the light will not kill another carrier once you put in a new one?

Contact info. I would try the e-mail in the middle.

Homepage: www.acebeam.com
Email:bella@acebeam.com
Email: bella6180@hotmail.com

Keep us updated. Would be a shame if Supbeam does not sell spare parts. If that is the case, I will have to think twice about buying lights from them.


Ill post this question again.

Have anyone modded their K50s and done a "full reliability check" without any issues with the battery carrier? Tom E? Anyone??

Is the driver still modded? If you get a replacement carrier, what makes you think that the light will not kill another carrier once you put in a new one?

If you read OL’s post on that subject, he didn’t even have the carrier in the light. He loaded batteries in it and it got hot and started smoking while it was in his hand. He doesn’t know why it fried.

I missed the part about that the carrier was outside the light. Should be a warranty issue then. Right?

Would be interesting to see a close up picture of the electronics in the broken carrier.

For pics you would have to ask Justin. I don’t believe he shipped the light with the bad carrier. (I haven’t received it yet). As far as warranty goes, I’m not the original purchaser so I don’t know if they would warranty it. And I don’t mind paying the $20 for a carrier. I think I saw on here that what they wanted for one.

Since I’m not living in USA, Chinese sellers looks like the only choice I can afford. Strap wrench is kinda considered as “special tool” around here as I never seen people using it, not even in automotive workshops.

I wonder if the head is simply screwing too tight, or it has been glued?

I have three XM-L2 U2 1A from IOS laying around, so no worry about that. XM-L2 are not cheap either but at least they are still replaceable. Driver on the other hand is not, if it is gone it is gone.

I took apart the carrier for photos and reassembled it. It never was in the light for use. Warranty? Bella will not even respond to my e-mails and I have sent several of them. I am not surprised, not am I upset. Calling them all liars did me in, I got back what I gave and still don't regret it. To heck with 'em.

I am sure you should be able to buy a carrier, but as to if it works? I cannot predict that. I do believe that anyone modding this light should just do away with the stock carrier, or mod it to parallel, without all the charging circuitry. Then use a different driver, even if it means loosing the magnetic ring and going with a momentary switch. I was going to do that, but I wasn't willing to put out the money and time/labor, do make that change.

It's possible that the battery carrier is "tuned" to the stock driver, thereby preventing modification. That might be why they are going bad, or it could just be something else, but I haven't heard people with stock lights saying the carriers are going bad.

If you get to where you don't want to mess with it, I know there's at least one other member who wants it and already has a K50, so you can always go that route.

very robustly so.

Once it broke loose I had to scissor it back and forth getting it unscrewed, 2 steps forward one step back…

You can buy it from ebay too (higher price due to shipping cost), e.g. this one or this

You can do this with a heavy belt

penumbra, this might be true with some things, but this light is glued together solidly! These Boa Constrictor stap wrenches are heavy duty, and it was about more than they could handle. One of the major problems is slippage, a heavy belt is leather (typically) and it’s difficult to get leather to “grab” an item to turn it. Perhaps if the belt is wet? Good luck!