Yes….
and the plastic prevents from conduction with the tail cap…
thus it has to overlap the metal disc by one millimeter or so…
The simmer ring is essential to have conduction from battery to the metal disc
thanks!
About the oxidizing…
I think that it was mentioned in the past by DeepDawg, the “Shave mod” should prevent it (NEW TrustFire TR-DF003 2x26650 3xCREE XM-L Diving Light), correct me if i’m wrong.
I think they only do it because they do not use s plastic disc to insulate.
my mod works and it’S not oxidizing…but the alloy thread is worn out already after a few dozent dives…opening and closing it so and so often…
So I am thinking of either replacing the whole endcap with some selfmade plastic piece that I will glue onto the alloythread and then have a plastic end cap on that…but I couldn’t find any fitting tubes in the local diy shop as yet…but didn’t look hard either…LOL…
If I find a new solution I’ll upload it.
The shave mod does prevent oxidizing from happening. I have dove with mine 10 times since doing the mod and not a problem…. Occasionally I have to hit the light because it goes in to a different mode but it cycles through to high again.
Hey guys. After the DF003 fiasco, what do you think about the DF002. It is 88$ including a charger and 2 TF 26650s. It is plastic covered and has infinite dimming. I think they have learnt their lessons. But it still scares me to pay that much money and go through the same thing like DF003. How much can a plastic covered body dissipate the heat? Under the water, it may be tolareted somewhat I guess. Maybe that’s why it is underdriven that much (1500lumen with 3T6s). Or should I get something like this. I have 18650s and can charge them with my headlamp (too cheap to commit myself to a charger yet :8). It looks like I could use it on land as well.
I got good price for the light with the charger and batteries (original Trustfire 26650 no other 18650 crap). It was 69$ shiped via expres DHL. I knew for the problems it has but with batteries and the charger worth around 30$ alone i just couldnt resist. The moding provided by Jim also works so i said to mineselves, lets go for it and had idea of moding it mineselves already made as well. So i did it Recievd and tested it and yes ofc its same unusable light as all other reported. But i did fixed it. 
What i did:
- Took out the tail spring - easy just pull and dont worry it goes back in with some presure on it
- Isolated the half (lower half) of the spring with thelmalstretch isolation used with soldering and isolating wires on conections.
This way i have ISOLATED bateries AWAY from the tail, since the spring is the conection part. This way there is NO WAY that light would come ON at any condition and therefore NO SHORTING trought the watter.
So how to get it on?
I have used a bit of soldering and made a small buble of cync in the middle of the spring (top not isolated part of the spring) facing don towords the tail.
So what happens now. U need to adjust this piece of soldering material to be just big enought in order to conect the batteries and the tail when and onlly when fully twisted.
Works FLAWLESSLY for me and i am happy.
Light came with new white orings wich looks to work great as well. Onlly thing now for me is - i would love to instal stronger driven to get better light output. Any recomendations?
My mod was pretty similar, only I just shortened the tailspring so it doesn’t contact when tailcap is loosened few rounds. I can also switch modes stroking the light.
I use this driver. You have to put the leds in series for that. It gives this lamp a lot of punch but in the other hand the batteries may not last even for one dive.
Nowadays I use this. DIY canisterlamp with seven XM-L U2 in series driven 3 A
Actually wierd, couse i couldnt get mine batteries to rattle even without the tail spring. Is why i was trying other solutions. If i put batteries in they stil stick out of the body…
Mine don’t give a rattling sound either but still it works. It’s normal that they stick out a little, about 0.5-1 cm
how much lumen with that driver and how long the run time with the 26650 trustfire 5000mA batteries?
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/boostbuck-318v-triple-xml-circuit-board-p-542.html
It’s as high as it gets. 3 A of current in series. Specs say that its 3 x 1000 lumen, but I think the reality is somewhere near 2000. If I remember right, the burning time before low voltage flashing was something like 45 minutes with those batteries. (I have the same)
Is it not around 1700 lm without any modifications already? Comparing to the other divilight i have rated at 1000 lm this TR-DF003 does not make it BRIGHTER but it does put out a lot more of a light. Much wider then other one using 1 led onlly. So the amount of light put out there is much bigger, the brightnes of the center is simply the same.
Well, I base my estimation on my other light which other people have made similarly. In that case seven XM-L T6 driven 3 A give 5500 lumen when tested. They should give 7000 if those rates were true… In the “turds” case there is even more spill so I think the overall result after the mod is much nearer to 2000 than 3000. Somebody should test it?
How ever the torch is quite nice specially in clear water for it’s price, but after that mod you can’t use it for very long dive. That was one of the reasons I went for a canister light.
One more question; does original driver of this light allow switch of different modes like; i would not want to have strobe at all; example:
there r 3 stars
1 has onlly light no strobe,…
Thx in advance…
That one from intl doesn’t have strobo. The one from ebay don’t fit, it has to be a boost regulator, not a constant current regulator. Secondly that one is for only one battery and one led.
I am asking for original driver if it has posibility to disable strob like that one i linked. Sory for confusion.
Congratulations Guys This very posts series is the reason to enteyour company, order a TURD and mod the hell out of it. I am 22years in NAVY nev er opened a flashlight to even change batteries… After five times of reading your posts I had the epiphany of tearing one apart. I’ ll contact fasttech for placing an order, Explain that my reading this forum made me an expert in recognizing fake trustfire 26650 batteries and receive a black old German grenade lookalike. In the process I am sure my C.O. will get angry about flaslighting every one aboard, wife will offer to present a new functional flashlight not to spend all of m y free time tweaking thebuoyanchor lookalike and kids will discover new bubble machine…deepdawng tu est le meilleur je te merci beaucoup.
i think is too much.
I am also looking for a diving light, but for way less than that!