Yezl Y3 - a picture breakdown

Advanced UI, might be over my head. :stuck_out_tongue:

Ahh, thought there was a new one around. Looks like the new SupBeam/AceBeam's use the Q0 bin MT-G2's, maybe other manufacturers as well.

I have only two - one installed in a host from IOS no longer sold, and the other one spare - no clue what bin they are though. Anyone know the history? Were the first ones available the M0 and P0 bins that are still available now?

The M0 comes in around 4000K, the P0 is 5000K, the new Q0 is supposed to still be 5000k, but a brighter tint bin.

I looked at Cutter's offerings of MT-G2's and they have quite a few in various bins (G0 - 3000K, M0, N0, P0), but couldn't find a 6 volt version in Q0. My 1st MT-G2 came from a group buy from Cutter, then IOS started selling them later.

tell us moar! trying to wait patiently before piggybacking a blf17dd. still waiting on another Y3, so I’m a week or so away from resorting to a jerryrigged solution to driving this thing harder for an mt-g2.

Theres two here if the stock levels are right.

http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-mtg20-mcpcb-cree-mtg2-p0-5000k-6v-led-p-727.html

I’m still looking for the new bin that is supposed to be coming out, the Q0

Just ordered 2 from Richard, one of those destined for the Y3.

ROD911 beam-shots of your MTG2 would be most appreciated.

Here are some quick and dirty shots of a messy backyard.

The candidates, from left to right:

- Yezl Y3 with MT-G2 driven with stock driver at default amps

- ZL S6330vn modded by Vinh with more amps and neutral emitters

- Convoy C8, SMO reflector XP-G2 R5 5A2 (70+ CRI) and driven at 3A

  • ZL SC52w using a 14500

All shots were on each of the lights’ respective highs/turbos and as per the above order.

imgur.com/a/dcfsI/embed

Now, if you will all excuse me, I am flying out tomorrow to get married. :bigsmile:

Bloody hell congrats I’m throwing rice at you.

I’m throwing lap pulls at you… :stuck_out_tongue:

Regarding the SMD sense resistor mod. Do I solder a R100 over each resistor (R180 & R150) or completely replacing them with R100?

Where is the best place to buy R100 resistor? I only find these at FT. Are they the of same kind?

Add the R100 to the top of either existing R180 or R150. I used an 0805 size one to match the existing ones, not 1206's as linked. Post #425 here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27963. Not sure if I got mine from DigiKey or FT - got lots of them from both sources.

These should work/fit: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1002/10003143/1234405-0805-01r-smd-precision-resistors-100-piece

Resistor calc here: http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/smdcalc.php (R100 is same as R10)

Will that boost the current with a single cell?

I'm thinking - yes?? Hope so, think so? Can't recall if I or anyone tried this with a Y3 driver before or not. If I had time, I'd try/test it out.

Thanks for answering my questions. It really going to save me a lot of time. I will grab one Yezl before GB ends. Together with the 26mm Maxtoch mcpcb.

what about if we short the one resistor on top of it ,will we gain anything ?

I added an R100 (digikey part #408-1556-1-ND) on top of the R150 and only saw a 0.6A rise in current (measured at both emitter and tailcap). My DMM is a pretty cheap one, but it seems to measure Qlites dead on 3.00-3.05A depending on the light. The Y3 went from 2.00ish to 2.60ish at the tail before/after on one EVVA unprotected 26650 from MTN. Also compared it with another Y3 that’s dedomed but otherwise stock that measured 2.00 or so at the tail (both on fully charged EVVA 26650s). Should I add more resistors? Or add to the R180 instead of the R150? I’m pretty well ignorant about electrical engineering — just good at following the lead of the awesome members on here and halfway decent at soldering. Hoping to get the current situation figured out before throwing an XM-L2 in one and an MT-G2 in the other both reflowed on 26mm maxtoch mcpcbs. Not aiming for insane numbers… just shooting for something between 3.5A and 4.5A at the emitter on both lights.

Any help appreciated.

The 2 resistors are in parallel, so it doesn't matter which you add a piggyback resistor to. Not sure bout adding more resistors... Sure seems like the boost should have been greater... An R100 should bump the power by about 75-80% or so, I'm thinking, and you are only seeing a 30% bump... Oh boy.

Would using two or three batteries make any difference with the R100 modification?