Add the R100 to the top of either existing R180 or R150. I used an 0805 size one to match the existing ones, not 1206's as linked. Post #425 here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27963. Not sure if I got mine from DigiKey or FT - got lots of them from both sources.
Thanks for answering my questions. It really going to save me a lot of time. I will grab one Yezl before GB ends. Together with the 26mm Maxtoch mcpcb.
I added an R100 (digikey part #408-1556-1-ND) on top of the R150 and only saw a 0.6A rise in current (measured at both emitter and tailcap). My DMM is a pretty cheap one, but it seems to measure Qlites dead on 3.00-3.05A depending on the light. The Y3 went from 2.00ish to 2.60ish at the tail before/after on one EVVA unprotected 26650 from MTN. Also compared it with another Y3 that’s dedomed but otherwise stock that measured 2.00 or so at the tail (both on fully charged EVVA 26650s). Should I add more resistors? Or add to the R180 instead of the R150? I’m pretty well ignorant about electrical engineering — just good at following the lead of the awesome members on here and halfway decent at soldering. Hoping to get the current situation figured out before throwing an XM-L2 in one and an MT-G2 in the other both reflowed on 26mm maxtoch mcpcbs. Not aiming for insane numbers… just shooting for something between 3.5A and 4.5A at the emitter on both lights.
The 2 resistors are in parallel, so it doesn't matter which you add a piggyback resistor to. Not sure bout adding more resistors... Sure seems like the boost should have been greater... An R100 should bump the power by about 75-80% or so, I'm thinking, and you are only seeing a 30% bump... Oh boy.
Post #425 here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27963 -- after adding an R100, I measured 4.6A at the tail for an MT-G2 modded Y3, so, maybe does make a difference? Weird... Sorry, wish I had time to test on a XM-L2 Y3...
I have not put my light together with one. The maxtoch mcpcb is 0,5mm thinner compared to stock. Not sure if that makes a difference. The place you solder the wires does not touch the reflector, so that is good. If you want to use thick wires you might want to do some very minor trimming to the mcpcb were the wires come through.
I plan to, but haven't even taken mine apart yet. I just realized that the reflector is so loose it literally rotates when I lightly flick the flashlight (I can hear it spinning). Need to work on raising the entire shelf before fitting the MaxToch mcpcb. Other than the height issue, the diameter seems to be a direct swap. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.