TK75 teardown, resistor mod and R86 edition

H6Flex has a minimum input voltage of 7v, 2SxP is not enough. It's more efficient with higher Vin. Input current with 2S would be double what it would be with 4S, and it would be out of spec if you ran the cells down to 3.5v each (input current would be too high to be safe, if it would operate down that low at all), check the H6Flex tech info page.

http://www.taskled.com/techh6flex.shtml

Cheers mate, and thanks for leaving a comment. Im not sure if I would bother using a using H6Flex in a TK61. Lots of work and investment just to drive a single emitter just a little bit harder, so little that its barely visible to the eye, and still not close to the XM-L2s peak potential. If you want more power then the stock driver can handle, RMM might be out with a HX1175B solution. I might start playing with my HX1175B`s and some tricks and see what I can do. HX1175B was my backup plan from the beginning, ive just put it on hold since others started playing with that idea and I had other interesting mods to do.

My plans with a mechanical switch on such done to the TK75, was first thought of for my TK61 mod actually.

If you want to use a taskled driver, H6CC might be an option too. Im considering to ask taskled if they will be capable of just a tad higher output a resistor mod or something. 0:) If it can do higher amps reliable without any strange behavior then it might be worth it for the most power hungry people.

With many buck drivers yes. But the relevant taskled drivers are made for higher input voltage, 7-25V, 8-25V and such. So I doubt they they are suitable for only two cells (5-8,4V.)

When all that is said. Lets try and keep TK61 talk to the TK61 thread and TK75 thread here in order to avoid confusion. Thanks!

[quote=Ouchyfoot] Wow! I love that light! I still haven't found the nerve to start opening up and playing around with any high end, name brand lights. I bow to the awesomeness of that light. Maybe I'll start small with my TA21. [/quote]

Thanks. If you are going to start, start with the lights where you have good backup solutions and are simple. That usually means, try and avoid lights with magnetic rings, and fancy electronics in battery carriers and such. It just makes life easier to avoid such things.. :D

you've been busy! Nice mod, thanks for showing all the details and the good pictures of them (not that I am going to do a mod like this: the light is too big for me, the work is too much for me )

Yupp. Kinda. I have taken my time with it though. The taskled rebuild have been an ongoing project for many weeks. I usually suck at "large projects". So I take breaks, do other mods in between and such. Go a bit back and forth. Im sure this mod sat for 7-14 days at some point without being touched.

Thanks again from the info, my fenix tk61 dedome was my first thrower light and I was amazed on how it lights up the sky… a light saber! I am also thinking about your post on tk61 about the HX1175B driver if there is a potential to make it 7+ amps, my next option will be to try and order the maxtoch 2x and put the driver on the tk61, because i remember from your old thread that you did the maxtoch 2x @7.2amps. I am not worried about the e-switch of the Tk61 because i can put a DIY mechanical switch a reverse clicky. If it doesnt work then its fine at least then i can put it back the old tk61 driver :wink: . still a lot to learn from you, Thanks for sharing all your hardwork mate….cheers

It was probably Tom E, DBCstm or someone who did that maxtoch mod.

Once you go for a mechanical switch in a TK61 or TK75, it might require some work to go back. A fair amount of plastic had to be trimmed off in order to get the mechanical switch nicely in place. Espesially if you want to use a "large" Omten switch like I did. The mechanical switch in my TK75 feels one 100% natural though. In terms of feel, there is no way to tell that the light was not shipped from the factory with one.

Super heavy mod :open_mouth:
Thanks for the pictures and for sharing :wink:

Some questions If I can…207 kcd It is with dome on or dedomed?
The switch cuts off power from the batteries?

Many thank

Domed.

Yes. The mechanical switch to the right cuts power from the batteries. When I power it up, the light always starts in lowest mode. I can program what mode it starts it. Or I can program it to have mode memory. Or I can program it so that it will not power up. All without opening up the light.

Lots of options with this driver. :)

Technically a mechanical switch is not needed. There is a feature to avoid accidental activation on the E-switch "superlock" and such. Parasitic drain is not much. I prefer to have a mechanical switch though. Its also very handy when programming the light. If you mess up, just easily turn the power off and on.

Shhhh!!! Do you all hear that?

It's the sound of a flashoholic achieving flashlight nirvana. A rare (and usually fleeting) experience for any kind of holic.

Congrats big guy. That sounds like a true and proper beast.

Yes! looks like a driver with good choices …
The switch supports the current well? It has low internal resistance?
Series switch is a serious design flaw in my opinion, it is almost impossible to move the flashlight in a bag or backpack with out accidentally turn on….
Always I have to move without batteries installed.

Thanks ImA4Wheelr and jacktheclipper.

I know that exact switch can handle 10-12A perfectly fine. Im running roughly half of that through it. I know others had more current through one.

I would not worry about accidental turn on with my light.

1. Pressing the mechanical switch requires a slightly deeper press compared to the left. Super easy to do with the finger, but less chance of accidentally doing it compared to stock E-switch.

2. You can active "super lock". Requires double tap on E-switch in order to turn the light on. Those double taps must be within 0,3 seconds of each other.

3. You can make sure it does not start up when the driver gets power from the mechanical switch.

4. You can do like me and make sure it always starts in lowest mode when its turned on.

5. You can active "sleep", so in case it turns on (programmed to low), it will turn off when there is no activity in a certain amount of time (you chose this too. 15 minutes is the lowest setting. 15 minutes of low will not drain batteries much).

6. If it turns on, on a high setting and gets hot. There is always temperature monitoring that will dim it down to a certain level.

7. If you for some reason still should be able to accidentally turn the light on and drain it. The low voltage cut off will avoid to drain the batteries completely.

I always use lockout. TK75 does not really have that unless battery tube is almost all the way out. But with mechanical switch and all the other stuff programmed right, there is absolutely no need to worry about taking out the cells and such in this light. Programmed "correctly" its about 1000x safer compared to stock TK75 (I made that number up), and a 10000x (I made that number up) safer compared to a resistor modded light that might kill the driver if it turns on in a bag.

Ive never used a driver that is close to having near the same amount of safety features. When that is said you can also make it start in high, and have no safety features. J)

Grumpy cat approves of startup in high. 6,6A to each emitter and no safety features. Preferably with 4 unprotected Ultrafire batteries in series.

well done.

Well. Seeing what you did with the TK75... imagine what you could do with a light that has five reflectors like that instead of three? That should be reason enough :p

Thanks nofearek9.

I dont think the stock X60 driver can do that much more based on the information available, and then there might be potential issues with the battery carrier. And sadly, I am not aware of any good replacement driver options for the X60. That is a typical issue when it comes to lights with magnetic rings.

I do know of a few half decent things to do with the X60 light that would increase output. But those things would not involve the magnetic ring. Maybe not even the charging system and stock battery monitoring. So im not so sure that it would be worth doing.

With the TK75 mod I felt that I not only added output, but also features.

You had me at "Tearing".

You convinced me to order one of these bad boys. I struggled between the X60 and this light ever since I read this thread. I had to limit myself to one or the other for financial reasons. The X60 is no doubt a kick ass light with a couple big advantages over this light. What convinced me was that it physically hurts for me to not be able to mod a light. I may not even mod a light, but I want to be able to readily mod it should I decide I want to. Technology marches on and I would no doubt want to upgrade the driver on a beauty like this at some point in the next 30 years.

Plus, as you also pointed out. it doesn't hurt that this light has a shorty configuration.

Thank you for sharing your tear down,mod and also your well thought out conclusions. You da man.

P.S. The kiss and wink are a joke. My wife would kick my and your ass up and down South Carolina and Norway if they were real.

:D

I hope you are not overpaying. I got my TK75 XM-L2 for 150$.

I hear you on the X60. You could do an emitter mod though. That is what Im trying to tell myself. Actually, I would have to do that. But not sure if that would cure the itch. I have not decided on that light yet. My X40 should (finally) arrive on Monday. Thinking Ill see how I like that.

I was able to get a new one with xm-l2 domestically for $140, no extension tube. Should get it in just a few days. No mod plans yet. Will use in stock config for awhile.

EDIT: Link for light:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181428278688?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

That's a very good deal! Lowest I ever paid for mine was $100, but that was for an xml version, and off of marketplace.

you rock! your numbers are outstanding