Ah thanks Mr and CK… I was about to wipe it the other day and get irish rage. Have some microfiber cloth that came with the garmin, but I’m sure it’s dirty- using it to wipe off all the fingermarks you get on that thing. Have to get some more camera lens paper and make due without pushing into it. Got another light on the way from gearbest. Almost bought the mt-g2 last night too but something keeps nagging me about it. Already have a good floody light. I wish I could see like toms version in hand or something.
Oh yeah wight, going to try a little lower on the sense resistance when the smd get here too. Maybe 5.5a, reading around some. I wish you had yours so I can pick your brain some more about resistor size and pushing this to it’s limit before it breaks
If you got caught up in a second batch send, when the lights get to the airport in China and show up in 17track, sometimes (most of the time) they can sit around at the airport for days, even weeks, waiting to be considered a high enough priority to send. Weird how they handle that over there, but eventually it gets put on a plane and makes it to the Country of destination where you’ll see it again in 17track, after that it’s still guesswork as to whether or not it gets scanned and you get more info.
Mine arrived today. Packaged the same as others described. (Two nested bubble wrap bags with lots more bubble wrap wrapped around them.) I haven’t had a chance to inspect them super closely, but I’d say mine fared better in terms of dings. I didn’t see anything that didn’t look like it happened on the manufacturing side.
Keep us updated. I ordered another AR lens from cnqualitygoods for the other one. I got thinking about Toms mod with the modes too. That would probably be better for hunting with the on off on the switch. What driver and tools would I need? I saw another thread but I’m not sure if that’s the same driver and where should I order. I can mess around with the code but I’ll need the driver, pick up the hardware to flash it in, ect.
Ben
Oh yeah got thinking about my big light too. I think I can air cool that sucker xd I’ve already visioned the airflow through the pill. But one thing at a time.
And again cnq has messed up my order…
Tracking never worked and today I got a message that they reshipped it, so here we go another month of waiting.
I will never order from them again, i hate the fact that they send my orders with small amount untracked despite they mark it as “free registered post” and that this orders get lost in 50% of the time the shop is crap for sure too… And now this….
Are the returned shipments all from buyers in Europe?
It is a little annoying but I can't really see how this is Ric's fault. I'm sure he is no more happy about it than any of us. Just have to wait a little longer.
Hi
Sorry to inform you that package has been returned to us.. We resent it by SG registered post.
Your order has been shipped by SG registered post.
What the heck are mup snails?! Can they travel over the internet via MRsDNF's posts? There's a lot of scary creatures in Australia even if you don't count MRsDNF.
EDIT: I just did a search and found MRsDNF's signature and followed the link. Totally forgot about that. I feel safer now.
The head and body have multiple scratches that did not happen in transit.
I got three 18650 spacers since I got the C version - one spacer is much better than the other 2 as the 18650s rattle in the other 2.
Both lenses are reflective, but they are clearly different - I don’t know which one is the AR…
Unprotected 26650 rattle in all configurations.
I don’t like the ui with 2 switches where you have to turn it on/off with the tail switch and switch modes with the side switch.
Fake tracking numbers,no explanation why china post didn't want to ship lights(???) ,all received lights are defective/factory rejects? Ric-CN,can you explain that?
One of my extensions has a mistake on the knurling. I’m not complaining, I don’t think that this is a problem for me. OTOH I wanted to mention this openly in case it’s useful information for anyone who was more unsatisfied than I am (such as you or downlinx), as general information about problems w/ this GB.
Don’t mistake my post #442 as describing a problem. I see no more imperfections on the two lights I received than what I’ve seen in Supfire reviews or on my own SolarForce lights. Out of the 4 extensions I received one had a knurling error, but I doubt that I received factory rejects. To me it looks like it’s probably typical Yezl quality (although I’ve never had a Yezl before).
He’s got to buy it and try it before he’s sure he doesn’t like it…. I think it’s fair to purchase something and then advise others that you don’t really like it. I’m not really sure what I’ll think of the interface either! We’ll just have to see ;-).
They are current sense resistors, definitely not current limit resistors. If we know the current going through an object and we know the voltage drop across the object we simply multiply those two things to determine the wattage consumed by that object. In this case we know the sense voltage to be 0.250 and we know how to calculate the current that the driver should produce from a given resistance… we multiply those to get the power dissipated by the sense resistor bank. Then I personally just do a rough hatchet-job in my head to see how power is distributed among the sense resistors. The resistor with the lowest value will get the most current through it.
The 5000 resistor assortment will not contain what you need. If you need to, please point out anything you don’t understand from my earlier post. Current sense resistors are only used for assembly power supplies (such as these buck LED drivers), and generally only for current limited ones. I would be extremely surprised if you found them in any of the places you are talking about.
No, I’m not sure that it will handle 5 amps. If I indicated somewhere that I thought it would handle 5 amps, I didn’t mean to! It might, I dunno. As I mentioned in ohaya’s driver thread, I wouldn’t push it past the point where I hit 70% efficiency. The inductor is big, so let’s assume it can take plenty of current. The schottky diode is marked for 5A, I’d probably not take it past that. The FET is a little tiny one, that might be your weak point at 5A or it might be OK, I dunno.