YEZL Y3 CNQUALITYGOODS Group buy. 3 Versions. See post 274 for delivery details.

What the heck are mup snails?! Can they travel over the internet via MRsDNF's posts? There's a lot of scary creatures in Australia even if you don't count MRsDNF.

EDIT: I just did a search and found MRsDNF's signature and followed the link. Totally forgot about that. I feel safer now.

They want you to feel safe, let down your guard, then suddenly....you're mupped!

Had to open a case with cnq on my quality control. After trying what tomE stated, it still didn’t help. They are receding back to yezl for more help.

I got mine, these are my initial impressions:

The head and body have multiple scratches that did not happen in transit.
I got three 18650 spacers since I got the C version - one spacer is much better than the other 2 as the 18650s rattle in the other 2.
Both lenses are reflective, but they are clearly different - I don’t know which one is the AR…
Unprotected 26650 rattle in all configurations.
I don’t like the ui with 2 switches where you have to turn it on/off with the tail switch and switch modes with the side switch.

Fake tracking numbers,no explanation why china post didn't want to ship lights(???) ,all received lights are defective/factory rejects? Ric-CN,can you explain that?

So why did you buy it? The UI was well documented beforehand.

One of my extensions has a mistake on the knurling. I’m not complaining, I don’t think that this is a problem for me. OTOH I wanted to mention this openly in case it’s useful information for anyone who was more unsatisfied than I am (such as you or downlinx), as general information about problems w/ this GB.

Don’t mistake my post #442 as describing a problem. I see no more imperfections on the two lights I received than what I’ve seen in Supfire reviews or on my own SolarForce lights. Out of the 4 extensions I received one had a knurling error, but I doubt that I received factory rejects. To me it looks like it’s probably typical Yezl quality (although I’ve never had a Yezl before).

He’s got to buy it and try it before he’s sure he doesn’t like it…. I think it’s fair to purchase something and then advise others that you don’t really like it. I’m not really sure what I’ll think of the interface either! We’ll just have to see ;-).

They are current sense resistors, definitely not current limit resistors. If we know the current going through an object and we know the voltage drop across the object we simply multiply those two things to determine the wattage consumed by that object. In this case we know the sense voltage to be 0.250 and we know how to calculate the current that the driver should produce from a given resistance… we multiply those to get the power dissipated by the sense resistor bank. Then I personally just do a rough hatchet-job in my head to see how power is distributed among the sense resistors. The resistor with the lowest value will get the most current through it.

  • The 5000 resistor assortment will not contain what you need. If you need to, please point out anything you don’t understand from my earlier post. Current sense resistors are only used for assembly power supplies (such as these buck LED drivers), and generally only for current limited ones. I would be extremely surprised if you found them in any of the places you are talking about.
  • No, I’m not sure that it will handle 5 amps. If I indicated somewhere that I thought it would handle 5 amps, I didn’t mean to! It might, I dunno. As I mentioned in ohaya’s driver thread, I wouldn’t push it past the point where I hit 70% efficiency. The inductor is big, so let’s assume it can take plenty of current. The schottky diode is marked for 5A, I’d probably not take it past that. The FET is a little tiny one, that might be your weak point at 5A or it might be OK, I dunno.

What I like about the ui is that the mode is not liable to change without me knowing. The XinTD X3 seems to change arbitrarily, so I’ll never know which mode it is going to start in. The machining is far inferior to the XinTD X3 - the edges are sharper and it feels cheaper because it is lighter. The output seems to be quite high and the battery capacity with 3*26650 is awesome - I have 15+ amp-hour in mine right now.

Gj wrote:

They want you to feel safe, let down your guard, then suddenly....you're mupped!

I found them, mup snails that is. Took me awhile but I got there. Thanks Dale. Now where is missy?

You didn’t charge the batteries? Again?

What a nice way to start the day. I found Missy. Shes at Maccas, working.

Not fake tracking numbers… CN-FuJian-post run strict safe-security at custom. Many packages returned. CNQG has total 25 packages returned. Among them, 13 returned packages are from this GB. We resent them all by SG registered post.

If you got a defective or scratched Y3, please contact me via cnqualitygoods@hotmail.com. I will take care of it.

These are budget lights, a scratched light doesn’t need to be replaced, lots of budget lights have scratches. Mine have scratches but I won’t be asking for a replacement. If it were a Fenix, Jetbeam, or Olight, that’s a different story. You have to be realistic in what you will get with a budget light. Both of my lights were packaged well by Ric and were definitely not scratched in shipping, they had to be that way from the factory.

Is the AR glass supposed to be the one that came separately?

yes

Exactly!

hold both lenses so that you can see the reflection of a light bulb in them, the AR one should look purple/blue/greenish

Thanks, I noticed the AR has the blue reflection when I got it, but I’m used to AR having a green reflection from eyeglasses.

So 5.5a it is! :slight_smile: I’ll put in 2 R090 and do a quick shot on high to see what it’s like. Might just go with one R090 in the end, but if you don’t see the limits you’ll never know the safe ground to play around. Those diodes can take a bit more than rated thinking. The fet I can always custom sink by running some copper sheet to the side of the pill. I’ve had to cool small fets before from bad design on a video card and it worked perfect. But that was with active cooling. That’s the thing with lights is your only good for so long at the high end and it’s lights out. It might be worth 5.5a though as your not going to be abusing that hopefully. I might make mine 5.5 and my brother in laws 2.75 with one resistor. Then I can say mines bigger than yours, but I’ll know it’s not going to last lol keep it on med most of the time.

I got those resistors off mouser, but they are 1206. The 5k pack from China I guess can store that away. :frowning: That could have been a battery