One of my extensions has a mistake on the knurling. I’m not complaining, I don’t think that this is a problem for me. OTOH I wanted to mention this openly in case it’s useful information for anyone who was more unsatisfied than I am (such as you or downlinx), as general information about problems w/ this GB.
Don’t mistake my post #442 as describing a problem. I see no more imperfections on the two lights I received than what I’ve seen in Supfire reviews or on my own SolarForce lights. Out of the 4 extensions I received one had a knurling error, but I doubt that I received factory rejects. To me it looks like it’s probably typical Yezl quality (although I’ve never had a Yezl before).
He’s got to buy it and try it before he’s sure he doesn’t like it…. I think it’s fair to purchase something and then advise others that you don’t really like it. I’m not really sure what I’ll think of the interface either! We’ll just have to see ;-).
They are current sense resistors, definitely not current limit resistors. If we know the current going through an object and we know the voltage drop across the object we simply multiply those two things to determine the wattage consumed by that object. In this case we know the sense voltage to be 0.250 and we know how to calculate the current that the driver should produce from a given resistance… we multiply those to get the power dissipated by the sense resistor bank. Then I personally just do a rough hatchet-job in my head to see how power is distributed among the sense resistors. The resistor with the lowest value will get the most current through it.
The 5000 resistor assortment will not contain what you need. If you need to, please point out anything you don’t understand from my earlier post. Current sense resistors are only used for assembly power supplies (such as these buck LED drivers), and generally only for current limited ones. I would be extremely surprised if you found them in any of the places you are talking about.
No, I’m not sure that it will handle 5 amps. If I indicated somewhere that I thought it would handle 5 amps, I didn’t mean to! It might, I dunno. As I mentioned in ohaya’s driver thread, I wouldn’t push it past the point where I hit 70% efficiency. The inductor is big, so let’s assume it can take plenty of current. The schottky diode is marked for 5A, I’d probably not take it past that. The FET is a little tiny one, that might be your weak point at 5A or it might be OK, I dunno.
What I like about the ui is that the mode is not liable to change without me knowing. The XinTD X3 seems to change arbitrarily, so I’ll never know which mode it is going to start in. The machining is far inferior to the XinTD X3 - the edges are sharper and it feels cheaper because it is lighter. The output seems to be quite high and the battery capacity with 3*26650 is awesome - I have 15+ amp-hour in mine right now.
Not fake tracking numbers… CN-FuJian-post run strict safe-security at custom. Many packages returned. CNQG has total 25 packages returned. Among them, 13 returned packages are from this GB. We resent them all by SG registered post.
If you got a defective or scratched Y3, please contact me via cnqualitygoods@hotmail.com. I will take care of it.
These are budget lights, a scratched light doesn’t need to be replaced, lots of budget lights have scratches. Mine have scratches but I won’t be asking for a replacement. If it were a Fenix, Jetbeam, or Olight, that’s a different story. You have to be realistic in what you will get with a budget light. Both of my lights were packaged well by Ric and were definitely not scratched in shipping, they had to be that way from the factory.
So 5.5a it is! I’ll put in 2 R090 and do a quick shot on high to see what it’s like. Might just go with one R090 in the end, but if you don’t see the limits you’ll never know the safe ground to play around. Those diodes can take a bit more than rated thinking. The fet I can always custom sink by running some copper sheet to the side of the pill. I’ve had to cool small fets before from bad design on a video card and it worked perfect. But that was with active cooling. That’s the thing with lights is your only good for so long at the high end and it’s lights out. It might be worth 5.5a though as your not going to be abusing that hopefully. I might make mine 5.5 and my brother in laws 2.75 with one resistor. Then I can say mines bigger than yours, but I’ll know it’s not going to last lol keep it on med most of the time.
I got those resistors off mouser, but they are 1206. The 5k pack from China I guess can store that away. That could have been a battery
Meh, it’s not a bad thing to have a ton of resistors :-).
Do we have “at the emitter” measurements for this light? The stock resistors should give 3A at the emitter already.
Just know that if you are “pushing” this board enough to make the efficiency drop significantly you are losing a ton of runtime and being hard on the driver at the same time.
My tracking number is still not working, I asked Ric and he said it wasnt one of the returned ones and said he was going to ask the shipper for help tracking it but I havent heard back yet.
I received mine yesterday and it did have two postage's on it. One from when it got sent out and returned and the second one for the second time it got sent.
I’ll put in 2 R090 and do a quick shot on high to see what it’s like. Might just go with one R090 in the end, but if you don’t see the limits you’ll never know the safe ground to play around. Those diodes can take a bit more than rated thinking. The fet I can always custom sink by running some copper sheet to the side of the pill. I’ve had to cool small fets before from bad design on a video card and it worked perfect. But that was with active cooling. That’s the thing with lights is your only good for so long at the high end and it’s lights out. It might be worth 5.5a though as your not going to be abusing that hopefully. I might make mine 5.5 and my brother in laws 2.75 with one resistor. Then I can say mines bigger than yours, but I’ll know it’s not going to last lol keep it on med most of the time.
That could have been a battery