MRsDNF wrote:

It looks like you need to get out the white king and turn your light naked. I had the same mark on one tailcap but thats all I could see without putting them under the microscope. Mine are definitely not as bright as my HD2010 running at 5 amps. I have a large star coming for the MTG-2 so will wait for it to come in before I mod it. Now to go and find Tom E thread on how to strip these.

white king? What is that? I never de-anodized a light or any outside parts before.

MRsDNF wrote:

It looks like you need to get out the white king and turn your light naked. I had the same mark on one tailcap but thats all I could see without putting them under the microscope. Mine are definitely not as bright as my HD2010 running at 5 amps. I have a large star coming for the MTG-2 so will wait for it to come in before I mod it. Now to go and find Tom E thread on how to strip these.

MRsDNF wrote:

Which driver?

MRsDNF wrote:

I was reading a thread the other day where the driver had the tabs like the standard one or maybe that was the standard board with this piggybacked on?

Got the R090s today from mouser. The light is pretty sick dedomed. I can only run it one cell right now cause it trips the protection on the batteries with 2 or 3 cells

I might take off the protection just to see what it can do on 3 cells. But from what I seen one cell is pretty damn good. Have the sense at .045 wight (you smart bastard heheh)

I had the other light come in from gearbest too the other day. I just took parts off both to make a perfect yezl. I noticed the one from gearbest had a cheaper eswitch on it that stuck out. Not like the one from cnqualitygoods which is flush with the light and looks slick.

Anyways good deal. I’ll have a mt-g2 in the other one when that led comes in from rmms shop. I have a copper noctigon coming too but I’m not sure if I even need it. It seems to be getting good sink action from the reflector and pill as it is. I de-domed the other one for practice too. It’s actually really easy using the lights own heat, peel it off one side at a time..

Thanks for the help though, I couldn’t have done it without you guys. Really happy with just one cell, seems out of control bright with 3 but cuts out in a second or so. I’m not sure why it cuts out on 2 and 3 cells but not one. Let me do a reading on the cap.

Edit

Read 3.2a tail with 2 cells bypassed.. I guess gonna have to get some good cells and then I can be like that kid in the ad to the left

MRsDNF wrote:

On a separate note did the driver pull out straight past the switch boot? Mine seems to be stuck there for some reason and dont want to break anything which l am quite adept at.

Hhmm - I don't recall having any problems with that. Dunno, really wondering if the earlier ones I bought from WallBuys were a better quality batch, and better quality in the assembling. They seemed to perform better, no nicks/scratch's to speak of, etc. I'm sure though the recent one I did from RIC was fine - don't recall any probs pulling it out and resistor modding it.

Ohhh - I got a bunch of the super copper stars (MaxToch) on order from BangGood. Both the XML and MT-G2 26 mm's sound perfect for this light!!

I'm a suka for qty discounts , plus the BLF discount still applies with the qty discount, unlike FastTech.

Just to update. The noctigon came in the mail today so I took out the stock led again and tried it out. The thing was too thin though so I had to put in a copper shim to focus it- my fault I’m sure as it’s obviously not the right size. :bigsmile: But I’m onto the mt-g2 and was wondering how far do you push yours in the Y3? The driver seems to handle 2 R090 resistors just fine through the u2, went and ordered some crazy batteries for it though so see if it makes a difference

Centering was difficult when you have to shim.. I can see why you guys charge the big bucks. I must have shifted the mcpcb around 20 times and finally got the bezel to close on it just right lol Anyways the light throws way better than stock as you can see here. The mt-g2 is next but I’ll do it tomorrow

Had a play around with mine last night. Really great thrower for the money, slightly deeper reflector then a ZY-T08. Strange how there is some slight PWM on high, but the driver isn’t going to be in there for long anyways. Thanks Ric & MRsDNF! :bigsmile:

Fell awaiting beamshots I have parts on order for a Y3 with G2 as well!

aoeu wrote:

Fell awaiting beamshots I have parts on order for a Y3 with G2 as well!

I’ll do that.. Still waiting on the ar lens but I’ll take some with the stock

Sweet looking hot spot there fell.  Congrats on the mod.

Thanks 4Wheel.. I finished the mt-g2 and put is as far into the reflector as possible, ended up using a shim again as the reflector was rattling around. Didn’t dedome it. There is a yellow looking area sort of in the middle of the floody beam, really small but only noticeable when your eyes adjust to the blinding bright light. The thing gets hot too It’s like my 15 led light. I need to make some leather handles for these things

Probably be a good idea to mess with it a bit to remove that yellow spot. Have to bypass the protection on the batteries to even run these things. Also how come a lot of people look like rue paul anymore.. Anyways beamshots tonight. The batteries are a bit over 4v

OK, you just earned my respect.  This ain't no stock "pill".  You lapped that baby flat.  Some would say it's not shinny, buy you knew flat is the important part.

Something dark about that pic.  Kind of war of the worlds or something.

Didn’t get out to the farm last night, ended up watching big brother with my wife. But I snuck out back and took these shots xd I know some are blurry like the 3rd shot, it’s our lemon and growing pomegranate.. Backyard not lookin too good, but were not allowed to water (drought). Just hand water certain trees so they don’t die this year- been rough Anyways here’s the shots

This is the 5 led Supernight (2× 26650). Very yellow. Doesn’t heat up enough to matter, stock.

This is the 15 led Supernight (4× 26650) Modded to remove all modes but high, pencil modded to 4a. It’s just a nice light. Nice cool white and lights up everything in front and sides. This picture really doesn’t do it justice. Gets ridiculously hot in about 15 minutes. 45+ minute strait runtime. Used the most. Can run protected or non protected.

This is the Y3 with a MT-G2 replacement (2× 26650). Sense resistor mod .042. My initial opinion of this light is the tint is sweet but holy cow it gets hot. Needs a leather handle made. It’s not dedomed but looks to have some decent throw to it anyway. It has 4 modes on the eswitch and you have to use them. Non protected 2+ cells only.

Y3 with a U2 D1 replacement dedomed (2× 26650). Sense resistor mod .045. This is just a laser xd I guess it could be better with a A1 bin after reading the dedome thread, but I’m pretty happy with the throw and heat. I had to stick the emitter way into the reflector. It doesn’t heat up like the MT-G2. I noticed the inductor is bigger in this driver from cnqualitygoods than the one from gearbest. Can run 1 protected or 2+ cells non protected (I really don’t know why 1 cell doesn’t trip, unless the driver is ignoring the sense).

Edit: Here’s a reference shot so you can see the true colors. I don’t know how you guys like your beamshots done, only way I can see the color difference

That’s how I looked after the MT-G2 mod

That picture could be vinh too

can’t wait to get mine installed.

Yeah DnF was the the inductor as far I could see. I guess they wanted to save a bit there with a smaller one. It still works good though. Making copper shims takes a while too. How do you guys shim the mcpcb up higher?

I like to take copper pipe bought by the foot and cut it then hit it with the torch until it’s pliable and hammer it flat as a pancake. You can make all the flat copper you need that way- cheap If the copper ever gets too hard from bending or whatever, hit it with the torch and it goes right back to workable. Love copper really you can make practically anything with it, and it’s food safe too

fellfromtree wrote:

Yeah DnF was the the inductor as far I could see. I guess they wanted to save a bit there with a smaller one. It still works good though. Making copper shims takes a while too. How do you guys shim the mcpcb up higher? I like to take copper pipe bought by the foot and cut it then hit it with the torch until it's pliable and hammer it flat as a pancake. You can make all the flat copper you need that way- cheap If the copper ever gets too hard from bending or whatever, hit it with the torch and it goes right back to workable. Love copper really you can make practically anything with it, and it's food safe too

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper_toxicity 

Hmm, I bought 5200 Evva cells to do the MTG2 swap. Gonna be a problem with the protection cutting in? Protection is meant to trigger at 8a.

Hey aoeu.. You can always bypass the protection. Weird I know, my 15 led doesnt trip protection but these lights do strait away. I was just unwrapping the battery and put tape down the positive rail. The negative, get a copper braid and slip it under the negative rail (be bent on the underside) and wrap it around to the back of battery, tape. You can remove it for other lights. A pain but it works.

Waiting on some efest batteries to get here. Those high drain should be good. On the copper- you can use it to pull sulfides out of boiling liquids Gj. Good read on copper toxicity though. I’ve never made a plate with it thankfully

aoeu wrote:

Hmm, I bought 5200 Evva cells to do the MTG2 swap. Gonna be a problem with the protection cutting in? Protection is meant to trigger at 8a.

Lol A mtg2 at 8A… :bigsmile:
I guess you should see no protection problems there…
To achieve such high current in real life you will need a very good driver and cells…to achieve this will give you a hard time…

Hkjs test of 26650 http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common26650comparator.php

Test from djozz of the mtg2 check post #16 http://budgetlightforum.com/node/22636

Werner, maybe not as much as you would think. I have an M8 with BLF17DD pushing 12+A from 2 18650’s powering the MT-G2.

Just yesterday I put an MT-G2 in an Eagle Eye X6 using 2 Efest Purple 18350’s that draws 7.17A at the tail and makes 3485 lumens OTF.

I’ve got 10 lights with MT-G2 emitters, passing 8A is too easy, limiting it so switches don’t fry is the bigger problem (or making the switches capable of handling 100%)

So previously it was mentioned the stock driver would be putting out 3a to the emitter. What would be fed to the emitter on a stock driver if I put an MTG2 in there? Is it still going to be 3a?

And also, what do you guys think would be the right resistor addition to give a nice balance of heat management + runtime? I don’t want any hand grenades but a nice balance of brightness and manageable heat.