Hmm, I bought 5200 Evva cells to do the MTG2 swap. Gonna be a problem with the protection cutting in? Protection is meant to trigger at 8a.
Hey aoeu… You can always bypass the protection. Weird I know, my 15 led doesnt trip protection but these lights do strait away. I was just unwrapping the battery and put tape down the positive rail. The negative, get a copper braid and slip it under the negative rail (be bent on the underside) and wrap it around to the back of battery, tape. You can remove it for other lights. A pain but it works.
Waiting on some efest batteries to get here. Those high drain should be good. On the copper- you can use it to pull sulfides out of boiling liquids Gj. Good read on copper toxicity though. I’ve never made a plate with it thankfully 
Lol A mtg2 at 8A… :bigsmile:
I guess you should see no protection problems there…
To achieve such high current in real life you will need a very good driver and cells…to achieve this will give you a hard time…
If you plan a direct drive, with two of your cells the voltage will break in a lot at 8A and that limits the current on itself. And of course every bit of wire in between will drop also a lot of voltage at higher currents(for example a spring with 50mohm will drop 8*50=400mV)
Hkjs test of 26650 Battery test-review 26650 comparator
Test from djozz of the mtg2 check post #16 crash-testing a MT-G2 on a copper Noctigon, graph done, mod done and repaired :-)
Werner, maybe not as much as you would think. I have an M8 with BLF17DD pushing 12+A from 2 18650’s powering the MT-G2.
Just yesterday I put an MT-G2 in an Eagle Eye X6 using 2 Efest Purple 18350’s that draws 7.17A at the tail and makes 3485 lumens OTF.
I’ve got 10 lights with MT-G2 emitters, passing 8A is too easy, limiting it so switches don’t fry is the bigger problem (or making the switches capable of handling 100%)
So previously it was mentioned the stock driver would be putting out 3a to the emitter. What would be fed to the emitter on a stock driver if I put an MTG2 in there? Is it still going to be 3a?
And also, what do you guys think would be the right resistor addition to give a nice balance of heat management + runtime? I don’t want any hand grenades but a nice balance of brightness and manageable heat.
Your builds are always crazy and hard to reach.
12A on two IMR might work( for a short time) but a you have to consider that a normal 26650 breaks in a lot more on startup, especially when it’s protected and run at 7A. Check out HKJs graph for the keepower 26650 at 7A multiply the voltage by two and compare it to the forward voltage djozz has provided and you will see that it should be in a safe region. Especially if you consider that you can easy loose half a volt an the I between resistance…
I can't help you with this... I did a resistor mod before upgrading to a MT-G2 but am suspecting you'd get the 3A in the stock configuration, and the balance heat/runtime issue is all a matter of personnal preference, operating usage, etc. - impossible for me to answer that for any flashlight. 90F outdoor temps is very different from 20F outdoor temps for example, also holding it vs. standing it idle.
Ill start with stock and see how that fairs then cheers 
I'll be interested to see what you get aoeu.
I think I read earlier that this was a 10 Watt driver. If you get 3A at the emitter that would make it at least 18W with a 6V MT-G2. Maybe even a little more depending on Vf.
Are you planning on using 2 cells or 3?
I would go directly for a resistor mod, a mtg driven at <3A isn’t so impressive at all. I have one with 3-4A and I wish I had powered it up more because it just gives 2000lm which is what you will get also from a srk style light easyly…
I don’t do anything any differently than what’s available to everyone else here. I buy the pcb’s from OSHPark, populate them with components from DigiKey and use commonly available cells and wires. Richard matches my lights and goes beyond them, as does Tom E and RaceR86 and CerealKiller and ComfyChair and and and…
Some of those guys figure out how to tweak stuff and make it better. I just assemble parts. I know squat about electronics. Ask Richard, I’m begging his and Comfy’s help all the time from simple things I’ve screwed up.
I just don’t have sense enough to not put a big lights components in a small light. <—- straight from the horses mouth.
I just really like the color of the MTG2… It gives a natural coloring to everything you shine it on. The throw is good too at .042 (R090 in parallel with the R180 and R150)
There was one guy remember reading. He said he liked it stock but I dunno what that looks like. Put the resistor in with the emitter too
edit Opps I put R90 instead of R090- fixed
What’s the rough calculation for current to the LED if given the source voltage (8.4) and total resistance 0.42?
Have to ask wight or someone else. I know with the u2 it should be ~6a… I have it on a noctigon and that’s sitting on a custom pure copper shim. Using alumina to set the shim on the pill and some thermalright for the emitter. It hasn’t blown up so far, and think it’s getting as good a path without potting or modding.
Used copper braid to the emitter so I could get the reflector down into the emitter as deep as possible. That helped quite a bit too with the reflector getting contact to the emitter to absorb some of that heat. On the driver I used copper braid on the fet and ran it to the outside of the driver to transfer some of that heat to the pill. This was all mainly from wights suggestions early on when messing around. Not sure if it needs it or not. I was going to put low esr capacitors on the output too, but it seems fine without xd Also have cheap tim on the threads connecting the head to the pill.
I like both the thrower and mtg2… They have different jobs but at .042, the mtg2 I can tell you honestly, it will heat up even and quickly and fast. The u2 heats over time and seems fine at .045. The mtg2 just can’t wait to dump it’s heat off into your hand on high. The driver and led seems to be able to handle it though- I let it run awhile… well until I was just being a showoff
I was thinking about switching out the reverse clicky for a forward clicky, but I’m not able to get the retaining ring off since it’s so tight. Anyone else have this issue?
Get some good needlenose pliers down at sears or something. The cheap harbor freight stuff just never seem to work- for anything. Snap ring pliers found don’t work too good either unless you can find them in ss.
Mine came today after only 32 days…
With the MTG2 swap, I ordered a 20mm MCPCB but realised there’s room for a 26mm. With the 20 it seems the terminals would interfere with the reflector. The 26 terminals would sit quite clear of the reflector and in theory provide more heat conduction.
You guys reckon just go with the 20? 26 would need a reflow and have to find a source.
I'm lov'n the idea of using the 26 on this light - it's made for it. It's a big flat reflector bottom, similar to the HD2010.
Think gonna drop the sense to .04 on the MT-G2. and a bit lower on the U2. I can test on a spare until it blows, dial it back. Be nice to know the limits, one of the inductors is smaller than the other, so I was thinking that will have a little more leeway.