Ill start with stock and see how that fairs then cheers 
I'll be interested to see what you get aoeu.
I think I read earlier that this was a 10 Watt driver. If you get 3A at the emitter that would make it at least 18W with a 6V MT-G2. Maybe even a little more depending on Vf.
Are you planning on using 2 cells or 3?
I would go directly for a resistor mod, a mtg driven at <3A isn’t so impressive at all. I have one with 3-4A and I wish I had powered it up more because it just gives 2000lm which is what you will get also from a srk style light easyly…
I don’t do anything any differently than what’s available to everyone else here. I buy the pcb’s from OSHPark, populate them with components from DigiKey and use commonly available cells and wires. Richard matches my lights and goes beyond them, as does Tom E and RaceR86 and CerealKiller and ComfyChair and and and…
Some of those guys figure out how to tweak stuff and make it better. I just assemble parts. I know squat about electronics. Ask Richard, I’m begging his and Comfy’s help all the time from simple things I’ve screwed up.
I just don’t have sense enough to not put a big lights components in a small light. <—- straight from the horses mouth.
I just really like the color of the MTG2… It gives a natural coloring to everything you shine it on. The throw is good too at .042 (R090 in parallel with the R180 and R150)
There was one guy remember reading. He said he liked it stock but I dunno what that looks like. Put the resistor in with the emitter too
edit Opps I put R90 instead of R090- fixed
What’s the rough calculation for current to the LED if given the source voltage (8.4) and total resistance 0.42?
Have to ask wight or someone else. I know with the u2 it should be ~6a… I have it on a noctigon and that’s sitting on a custom pure copper shim. Using alumina to set the shim on the pill and some thermalright for the emitter. It hasn’t blown up so far, and think it’s getting as good a path without potting or modding.
Used copper braid to the emitter so I could get the reflector down into the emitter as deep as possible. That helped quite a bit too with the reflector getting contact to the emitter to absorb some of that heat. On the driver I used copper braid on the fet and ran it to the outside of the driver to transfer some of that heat to the pill. This was all mainly from wights suggestions early on when messing around. Not sure if it needs it or not. I was going to put low esr capacitors on the output too, but it seems fine without xd Also have cheap tim on the threads connecting the head to the pill.
I like both the thrower and mtg2… They have different jobs but at .042, the mtg2 I can tell you honestly, it will heat up even and quickly and fast. The u2 heats over time and seems fine at .045. The mtg2 just can’t wait to dump it’s heat off into your hand on high. The driver and led seems to be able to handle it though- I let it run awhile… well until I was just being a showoff
I was thinking about switching out the reverse clicky for a forward clicky, but I’m not able to get the retaining ring off since it’s so tight. Anyone else have this issue?
Get some good needlenose pliers down at sears or something. The cheap harbor freight stuff just never seem to work- for anything. Snap ring pliers found don’t work too good either unless you can find them in ss.
Mine came today after only 32 days…
With the MTG2 swap, I ordered a 20mm MCPCB but realised there’s room for a 26mm. With the 20 it seems the terminals would interfere with the reflector. The 26 terminals would sit quite clear of the reflector and in theory provide more heat conduction.
You guys reckon just go with the 20? 26 would need a reflow and have to find a source.
I'm lov'n the idea of using the 26 on this light - it's made for it. It's a big flat reflector bottom, similar to the HD2010.
Think gonna drop the sense to .04 on the MT-G2. and a bit lower on the U2. I can test on a spare until it blows, dial it back. Be nice to know the limits, one of the inductors is smaller than the other, so I was thinking that will have a little more leeway.
I've got 26mm on order. They did email me that they were out of stock so I'm not sure if they are in yet or not.
Where did you get yours from MRs? I can only see Banggood/MTN selling Maxtoch MTG2 26mm. For the aussies the Banggoods will be cheaper but slower. Some have mentioned they need a shim as well?
Banggood. I'm never in a hurry to get anything from China. I never get disappointed that way with slow delivery times.
They are like my wife whom I'm always telling to hurry up and take your time.
I’ve got my XP and XM Maxtoch 26’s coming from Mtn, already got the driver built, can’t wait for 300k!
Got my maxrouch on the way from mtn
Messing with the driver on both lights today. I found the breaking point for 3s. Sense at 0.037895 will break the emitter or driver with 3 cells on the xml.
It was running fine with 2 at that sense resistance but then I thought I’d throw in 3 for the heck of it. The light was blazin almost blue light that was kind of ridiculous for about 3 seconds and it went out. I’m not sure why but I’m going to have to get another emitter to find out what went.
The mt-g2 is pulling 4a through the tail @ 3s and heats up about right at 0.036364. I guess that light can take the ripple a bit better? It’s kind of confusing really cause the lower I went, seems 2s seemed to cap out and then have to go to 3 to see better results. 1s seems capped the whole time.
I’m happy to find the limit on this lights driver though. Anyways hope it helps if your trying to max it.
What do you guys think of this. Have to reasons for doing it like this 1. Emitter further into reflector for more flood 2. Looks cool I plan to grind out the base of the reflector and shim up somehow, possibly use 2 copper MCPCBs soldered together and then the Noctigon on top. Just an idea for now.
